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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Wed, 31 May 2000 00:21:42 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 00:21:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server>
To: 80-96-list digest users>
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #101
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80-96-list Digest Mon, 29 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 101

In This Issue:
Re: pitman arm
Re: Temperature Sender Resistance Info / No Heat
Re: Lifter ???'s
Re: Lifter ???'s
'89 F350 fuel gage/sending unit problems
Re: pitman arm
Re: pitman arm
Re: "Upgrade"
Re: "Upgrade"
Windshield Wipers - '92 F-150
Re: pitman arm
Re: Pitman Arm
interesting sound
choke heater tube (HELP)


Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 22:27:43 -0500
From: Jim Cannon>
Subject: Re: pitman arm

At 19:40 29-05-00 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi all. I got a 87 f-150 w/the 5.0. And no matter what I do I can not get
>the pitman arm off. I need to rebuild my gear box so I need it off. I
>pounded it, kicked it, pryed it and tried a puller on it. If I would have
>had a torch I probably would've cut it. Any one have a good suggestion?

The puller is the best way. Spray with PB Blaster (Wal-Mart has it) and let
soak overnight.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


From: "John Watson">
Subject: Re: Temperature Sender Resistance Info / No Heat
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 13:41:24 +1000

Will give it a go.

It is strange, when I got the truck 3 weeks ago, I thought there was no
thermostat in it as the temp gauge would only just get into the acceptable
range and the heater would stay cold.

I put a 170 degree one in and the gauge went very close to the cooked area
of the gauge.

So I put a 160 degree one back and things are as they were before with the
temp only just registering and the heater is luke warm.

There does not seem to be a 165 degree one available

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Cannon>
To: <>
Sent: Tuesday, 30 May 2000 13:25
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Temperature Sender Resistance Info

> At 09:40 30-05-00 +1000, you wrote:
>Does anyone know of the resistance v's temperature values for a sender on a
>81 Bronco 351 Cleveland, or where I could find that info, I want to check
>the accuracy of my temp guage.

There is a 2-point test procedure outlined in the shop manual. It does not
matter what engine you have. When you put a 10 ohn 10 watt ceramic resistor
in place of the sender, between sender wire and a good clean ground, you
should read within one needle width of the HOT line. When you put a 73 ohm
resistor in ther same place (instead of the 10 ohm resistor) you should
read within one needle width of the COLD line. It is a non-linear
relationship between these two points, and Ford does not tells us wht it is
(but I could probably figure it out for you, if it is really important to
you). A 73 ohm resistor is not a standard size. The easiest way to make
the required 73 ohm resistance is to twist a 100 ohm and a 270 ohm resistor
"in parallel" (that is, side to side).

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8

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Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 23:22:49 -0500
From: Ezekial>
Subject: Re: Lifter ???'s

I also have a 93 F-150 351, 4x4, SC...
Mine also feels like it lacks power and won't speed up properly and
feels like something is holding it back.. However it mostly just does
this on the front tank. If I switch to the back tank its perfect to the
best of my knoledge. If I used the rear tank part of the gas goes to
the front so I am forced to use the front tank til I get it fixed. For
some reason my truck isn't one of the 93's that has a recal for this. I
am planning on calling Ford about it, but just have gotten around to it
do see if they will do somthing about it (yeah right). Anyways, if
anyone has and input for me or him... Let us know


Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 22:10:55 -0700
From: scott>
Subject: "Upgrade"

I've finally given up and decided I'll be upgrading to a
Toyota Tundra,


>>>>because reliability is important to me

Reliability is not important to us,we are just a bunch of dumb Ford

>>>>and I've never had a Japanese designed vehicle fail to start (or have the AC go out, or die in the middle of the road, or have the transmission fail, or get really crappy gas mileage,or...list gets longer.)

I'll will have to agree with you on mileage.The last Japanese car I will
ever own got good mileage....when it ran.It broke timing belts on a
regular basis,
the emission control system was a unpredictable nightmare,exhaust system
only made it to 60,000 miles,my 8 year old shut the door and the door
panel came off in his hand,(made it easier to replace the burned out PW
motor tho),wipers worked when they wanted to etc...... in general
tinny,underpowered pile of junk.But as opposed to signing on to a
riceboy list and bitchin' about it, I sold it.

>>>>Hopefully, American manufacturers will eventually
bring together the combination of quality of materials, engineering,
design, and construction that the Japanese seem to typically have.

If my experience is any indication I sure hope not.
Oh,and you forgot styling.
The tundra is the result of too much sake use in the design studio and
a poorly done rip-off of a F-150.
but......"Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery"

>>>When they do get it all together, I'll be back smiling.
Until then, I'm voting with my pocketbook. "Buy American" types
might not
like me for it,

Personally I could care less what you drive,but I feel you could pick a
better forum to discuss the greatness of Japanese vehicles.

>>>> but it seems to be the only way to get the message across
to the folks running the companies that as an American I expect the
from them!

I currently own three of the best right now with a combined total of
400,000 miles.They have not been perfect,but overall I'm very pleased.
Within the next few years I plan on replacing my 84 F-250 with a
That should offset your tundra purchase on Ford's balance sheet.

>>>As consolation, the Tundra is built in the U.S.

Still a Japanese truck in my book.The only reason any of the Japanese
manufacturers have any plants in America is because the U.S.goverment
practically forced them too.They sure as heck did not build plants here
out of the goodness of thier hearts.

>>>>My guess is that they buy as many components as they can in
the U.S. to reduce shipping cost.

s.spaulding covered that very well
>>>In general, the transplant automakers (Japanese cars made here) don't
buy parts from more than a very few American companies. The parts
are sourced in the U.S. are made primarily by other Japanese owned or
controlled companies.

Which brings up the question "Why are Japaneese parts about double the
price of American parts for consumers,but the same or lower for
Japaneese manufacturers?"Could it be our japaneese "friends "are putting
the screws to us??

>>>Competition with imports has improved all of the other lines,hope it spreads to full size trucks.

That toyota t-100 sure got the Big Three straightened out didn't it?
I imagine toyota will sell more tundras than t-100s,but I don't see
them making a major dent in the Big Three's market share.
Alot of car buyers views buying a car no differently than buy a
They only want to get to work and home again.They have no brand loyalty.
Whatever they can get a good deal on is good enough.
A typical truck buyer doesn't even need a truck,a car would suit
his/her needs just as well.They WANT a truck, a big,beefy American
truck.The truck owners I know are passonate about their trucks with
endless arguments over which brand is superior.I have yet to hear a "My
corolla is better than your....."argument.
When trade in time comes the truck owners I know buy a new version of
the truck they already have.They might buy a toyota or nissan for a
car,but they would never buy a foreign full size TRUCK.

>>Then we'll all be happier.
You are right, after I get my new Expedition I will be happier.


Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 01:19:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Lifter ???'s

Time to do some diagnosing on your engine. You likely have more than one
problem. A mechanical oil pressure gauge will give you an idea about your
oil pressure concern. The ticking could be anything from worn valve guides
to a plugged oil pickup or a bad oil pump. Are you sure it's a valve train
"tick" and not an ignition "ping" (as in badly cartooned up valves), since
you say it only happens on acceleration? Your lack of power could be a
restricted exhaust (catalytic converter) or a fuel pump not up to snuff, a
good place to start is doing a volumn/pressure test on it. Like I said to
start with, it's time to do some's probably nothing major.
Good luck.


Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 14:24:14 -0700
From: "Joe">
Subject: '89 F350 fuel gage/sending unit problems

I have a '89 F350 7.5/C6/4wd reg cab. I removed the bed (am hooking up on board air - bed removal makes it easy) and noticed that the lines coming out of fuel sending unit are rusted badly. They are not leaking yet.. but I would like to fix them now while its easy. Ford wants $150 (its got the low pressure pump on it) - anybody out there know of a cheaper unit that is quality? Also my fuel gage sometimes goes nuts... will read full then almost empty.. is it the gage or the sending unit? Thanks a bunch.

Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail.


From: "Nelson Vasconcelos">
Subject: Re: pitman arm
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 18:23:54 -0400

I just had the same hassle with my pitman arm when installing my lift kit.
First, you need a "real" pitman arm puller. I tried a regular pulley puller
and all I did was waste 2 hours and hurt fingers. Go out and buy one at a
parts store, AutoZone is the cheapest. If an actual pitman arm puller alone
doesn't work, get a torch and JUST WARM the pitman arm. Then, WD-40 the hell
out of it, wait a few minutes and try the puller again, It should come right

Good Luck



Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 15:56:55 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn>
Subject: Re: pitman arm

At 06:23 PM 5/30/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Then, WD-40 the hell
>out of it, wait a few minutes and try the puller again,

If'n you guys want a real loosening agent, try Kroil. That
is the best stuff I have ever used.

Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1986 F150 six banger


Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 18:48:10 -0500
From: a&b>
Subject: Re: "Upgrade"

Well yeah, and maybe the Americans are also out-sourcing. What is "American" anymore? Seems like my wife's F-150 and my Explorer tranny's are Mazda; my Explorer V-6 I'm told was made in France. I don't know about her '96
F-250 Crew, I guess that big 'ole diesel was made by "our boys", but how much of the rest of it is "American". How many years have you gotta go back to get a "real all-American vehicle"?
My criteria is does it do what I want it to, and at what cost /value.

scott wrote:

> >>>In general, the transplant automakers (Japanese cars made here) don't
> buy parts from more than a very few American companies. The parts
> that
> are sourced in the U.S. are made primarily by other Japanese owned or
> controlled companies.


Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 19:52:25 EDT
Subject: Re: "Upgrade"

i am just the opposite..when i need a part, i go for the canada/usa made
parts, i think it is worth the extra couple of bucks to get a well built
part. thats my 2 cents


From: "Dave Harmier">
Subject: Windshield Wipers - '92 F-150
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 19:19:37 -0500

They have been troublesome in the past, but always worked for me. The truck
has been off getting oil pump, pan gasket, water pump, timing chain etc. so
I don't know exactly when they stopped working. I told Dad not to pressure
spray the wiper motor area, and he did anyway.

So now, turn the stalk, cause clicks coming from a relay behind the ecu,
with quite a few wires coming out, but get nothing at the motor. Jump 12
volts to each of 3 terminals to the motor itself... no motor run.

So both relay, and motor are suspects. And the timing rotor that the motor
turns gives me cause for concern too!

Anyone have similar trouble? And what part cured it?

Thanks guys!!!!

Dave H.


From: "big red">
Subject: Re: pitman arm
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 18:25:27 PDT

Thanks all for the info. I guess I'll have to pick up a real puller this
week. Can't work on it till the weekend anyway since it is a couple hundred
miles away right now. Thanks


From: "Mark Salvetti">
Subject: Re: Pitman Arm
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 21:46:26 -0400

Hi Big Red. Last summer I broke one of AutoZone's cheap loaner pullers
trying to get my pitman arm off.

Try spraying a good penetrant on the shaft. I use Aero Kroil. Tap it a bit
to work the penetrant into the splines, and then attack with the puller
again. It should slowly come off.

Mark Salvetti
1986 F150 5.0L


Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 21:49:43 EDT
Subject: interesting sound

hi, i have a 351w with a performer intake and 600 4bbl from edelbrock and
60,000 orig.,miles. i put this on and my engine ran great, notice i said
'ran'. i have a problem, i now aquired a noise that is very different to
the ear. its not a piston,rod or broken lifter of sorts. it sounds like
something is loose,(in the center part of the engine, the block), a loose
particle or sometihng is getting hit around in the engine. this noise has
myself,dad,brother, and good friend,all mechanics to a point stumped, we can
not figure out what the hecj is wrong, thankx in advace for your 2 cents
about my problem
82 351w in
85 f150 4x4 w t-18,np205 3.55 with 8.8 rear


Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 01:21:11 -0400
From: Dale Grein>
Subject: choke heater tube (HELP)

I have a problem with my 84 F150 w/300 I6

The heater tube that controls the choke is rusted right off of my manifold.
How does it connect and how can I fix it?

EGR tube is also rusted off and missing. Where does it connect and
how can I fix it?

I checked the Hanes manual but it didn't show it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Hail to the list.




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