80-96-list-digest Tuesday, October 13 1998 Volume 02 : Number 356

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:FTE 80-96-Fuel or Ignition problem
FTE 80-96 - E4OD O/D Light Out
Re: FTE 80-96 - How much damage did I do?
Re: FTE 80-96 - How much damage did I do?
FTE 80-96 - Re: Won't go into gear
FTE 80-96 - Clutch Job & Tranny problem
FTE 80-96 - RE: Octane



Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 21:40:20 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:FTE 80-96-Fuel or Ignition problem

I recently rebuilt my Ford 4bbl on my '87 F-250, 351W. When done it
started and idled great. Revved it up and man was it smooth. I was a
happy camper...until. I took it for a test drive and it ran like
crap. It didn't fall flat on its' face, but...
Back to square one, took back off (easy once you know what crap you
have to move), removed bowls, re-aligned floats, replace economizer
vavle and put back on. NO change, ARGH!
I babied it enough to take it to work the next day and back thinking
something would blow itself out. Yeah, right. The next day I took it
to my buddy's shop and he re-adjusted the floats. I had done a dry
adjustment when the bowls were off. He did a wet adjustment w/carb on
the truck and the truck running. Make sure you use lots of water and
have plenty of towels on hand to soak up the leaking gas from the view
ports. Anyway I took it for a test run after work and was squealing
the tires, woo hoo! I really was amazed at the difference such a
- -seemingly- small adjustment could make. I know it sounds simple and
I was SURE I had those floats spotted up right when I put it together.
Basically, it was drowning itself out and this made a world of
difference. Can't hurt to try if you don't come up w/anything else.
I would start where the problem did. If the carb was the problem to
begin with play w/it a little more before you try ignition. You
mentioned the rebuilt carb helped for a few days so I'd stick w/the
fuel flow for a little while longer.

Randy (Brew)

Kbeverweinaol.com wrote:
> I need some. I have a 86 F250, 460, C-6. which i just bought a couple weeks
> ago.
> I rebuilt the carburetor after i got it. It was flooding really bad. That
> worked for about
> two days and now I am back where I started from. So what I have done this
> past week is replaced the stock ford Holley 4-barrel double pumper carb, with
> an Edelbrock EDL-1406, replaced all plugs again, have new wires, cap and
> rotor. Truck
> starts up just fine and idles great. When I take it for a test drive that is
> when the
> problem happens. I get up to about 35 mph and the engine starts to shake like
> it is
> completely out of balance. So I'm thinking that it is the Ignition. because
> if it was
> running out of fuel it should just fall flat on its face. Does anyone know
> what may cause this problem.
> Also still trying to find some good wiring schematics and repair/service
> manual
> for same truck.
> Brian
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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 22:23:15 -0400
From: Kevin
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD O/D Light Out

Ok, lets see if I can get this right. I have been reading the info on
the Digest for about 7 months now and haven't had to ask any questions.
You all ask them for me. So here is the $1,000,000 question of the
I have a 93 Bronco (302/E4OD) and the O/D light started blinking
just before I had it completely rebuilt (about 4 months ago) even after
I had it rebuilt, the technician said that it was a bad ground, not to
worry about it. The button on the shifter works properly shifting in
and out of overdrive. But the light won't even come on at all.
What do I need to do to get this thing working properly??? The
reason I had it rebuilt was that it would stall when put into gear from
a stop. These E4ODs, I guess, are one of the worst trannies Ford has
ever concocted...... I have read about so many problems with them...
Any help would be greatly appreciated.....

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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 23:00:52 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - How much damage did I do?

Chad A Dietrich wrote:
> Randy,
> I disagree. I have bound many front axles driving in four wheel on dry pavement. When
> it happened the first time the dealer told me that on my 86 Dana 44 the front wheels would
> spin more than the back wheels (i.e. that's why you put chains on the front wheels not the
> back on a 4x4). This would prevent the limited slip from always working properly. If you
> are in 4x and attempt a corner with every thing locked in and on the gas a bit you will
> feel the hopping of the front end because the diff isn't working properly. Of course you
> can do it is long as you are not adding power while turning or even going straight. that's
> why they recommend not driving on dry pavement.
> Randy wrote:
- -----snip-----

The hopping or lugging of the front of my F-250 is caused by the outer
axleshaft U-joints being turned to their limits. Or at least that's
what I've always concluded. But realistically short drives on dry
pavement won't do any damage to a driveline, but I agree, long term,
yes, especially early wear/fatigue. Unless, of course, you drive
around the Super K-mart parking lot all day long trying to turn into
tight parking spaces... :)

Randy (Brew)
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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 23:11:41 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - How much damage did I do?

Andre Roy wrote:
> Randy wrote:
> >

- -----snip-----

> >
> > It will NOT hurt or bind-up your drivetrain to drive w/the 4x engaged
> > on dry pavement. The factory differentials are either 'open'
> > (regular) or limited-slip. ......
> >
> Everything you say is true. Absolutely true. If, and only if, you have
> differentiation _between_ the front and rear axles.
> If the front and rear drive shafts are locked together, when you go
> around a corner, the average radius of the front wheels will be larger
> than the average radius of the rear wheels. That's where the binding
> will occur. The transfer case (if it locks the front and rear together)
> will be trying to turn the front and rear driveshafts at the same speed.
> The wheels, because the front cover a wider arc in a curve, will try to
> run at different speeds. It's hard on theu-joints. Probably nothing that
> bothers the differentials.
> Now, if you have some sort of full-time 4wd, or soe sort of differential
> between the front and rear, then there's no problem. But if the front
> and rear driveshafts are driven without any kind of differentiation,
> that's where the binding will occur.
- -----snip-----

I agree about the t-case differentiation. Do the Ford t-cases lock
the driveshafts (BW 1356 on mine)?
That's why all-wheel drive vehicles usually incorporate a viscous
coupling to diff between the axles.

I don't know how it'd be true, but Chad said (mechanic at dealer) that
the front tires turn more than the rear (same gear ratio?), but if it
is true than that would be a built-in countermeasure for the wider
radius that the front tires would travel, to a small amount, of
course. But on the other hand that would mean the front axle is
always trying to pull the rear so you'd cause more wear driving in a
straight line. Hmmm...

Randy (Brew)

Any Simpsons fans on board? E-mail me off-list, I have a website URL
for you.
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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 20:38:06 PDT
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Won't go into gear

Thanks for the info, I will look into some Mobil 1 or Redline whatever I
can find up here. I let you know how it goes when I find some.


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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 23:37:11 -0500
From: Geoffrey Schrag
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Job & Tranny problem

It looks like the clutch just went out on my 80' Bronco. I was
expecting this to happen soon, but can't figure out why it didn't happen
during the 1400 mile trip I took last week!! Pedal pressure necessary to
disengage clutch had been increasing and I recently noticed that when
letting up on the clutch pedal the pedal slowly returned to the original
position. I can only get the tranny to shift into 4th and rev. It appears
that clutch is no longer disengaging when I press down on the pedal. I've
never done this before so if anyone has any advice that might make it go
easier I'd really appreciate it. I don't think I can afford to have this
done around here.
Also I've thought about buying a high-perf (centerforce?) clutch-Just
wondering if anyone has any recommendations
One, other thing since I bought the truck I've noticed that sometimes
when I shift into reverse I hear a clang or clunk-just wondering if this
could be a BIG problem?

Thanks Again,

Geof Schrag
immobile 80' Bronco
351M, 4sp

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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 23:38:15 -0500
From: lordjanuszjuno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Octane

M-block Dave posted:
(... chemistry lesson deleted...)

Thanks for the information, Dave. Organic chemistry makes my
brain hurt, so I was trying to keep it simple. All that you said is true
AFAIK, but I do have one question:

I originally posted:
>I am told that
>octane works by slowing down the combustion

You replied:
>Octane number is not related to the specific energy output of the fuel,
>speed of the flame front in a combustion reaction, or to the speed of
>combustion reaction itself.

and referred us to:

but in section 7.3 They said:
. Conventionally, enrichment for maximum power air-fuel ratio
is used during full throttle operation to reduce knocking while providing

better driveability [38]. An average increase of 2 (R+M)/2 ON is required

for each 1.0 increase (leaning) of the air-fuel ratio [111]. If the
is weakened, the flame speed is reduced, consequently less heat is
to mechanical energy, leaving heat in the cylinder walls and head,
potentially inducing knock. It is possible to weaken the mixture
that the flame is still present when the inlet valve opens again,
in backfiring.

...which would seem to support the hypothesis that "octane" can
influence the combustion speed, albeit in the opposite direction than I
thought it did! Am I mistaken? Now my brain hurts again. I defer to
your greater knowledge on the matter...


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End of 80-96-list-digest V2 #356

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