Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 03:50:18 -0700 (MST)
From: (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #192

fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, March 31 1998 Volume 02 : Number 192

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: 2100/2150 carbs ["Dave Resch" ]
RE: Screens, flames, and fire extinguishers [Sleddog ]
Re: 1967 f100 snow/ice [Ractrk002 ]
Re: Bed time (floor replacement) [Barry ]
Retrofitting a rear swaybar... ["Daniel H. Jenkins"
Gaskets [BDIJXS ]
[none] [ (Bradley D Frank)]
Re: Bed time (floor replacement) [Don Grossman ]
Re: Screens, flames, and such. [Don Grossman ]
Re: Buying a used Ford Truck... ["Dennis K. Austin"
Re: Cooler fuel ["Dennis K. Austin" ]
Re: Bed time (floor replacement) ["Deacon" ]
Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights! [Mike Schwall ]
Re: Bed time (floor replacement)...Finishes [Randy Collins
Car Magazines. [ (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]



Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:29:18 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: 2100/2150 carbs

Oops! I hit "Send" instead of "Save as Draft." Forgot to sign:

(Last time I sent two sequential postings to the list, they arrived out of
order, so maybe you'll read this and when you see the other one... oh,
never mind!)

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 16:36:40 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Screens, flames, and fire extinguishers

quite awhile ago i mentioned these screens as a possible band aid fix for
ports that are too big. later it was posted if anyone knew anything of
them. all replies were of the "maybe it would work" or the "no way"
variety, with noone saying for sure it would work, or having any personal
experience with them.

it was a racers trick, before carbs actually "worked" to use a fine mesh in
the intake to head gasket. how much success? don't know.

but, the discussion was basically a bench racing exercise and noone
deserved a flame thrower pointed their way.

as for restriction, it doesn't matter at part throttle low engine speeds,
which is where they are supposed to work.

as for better fuel atomization? it should in theory help fuel mixture and
help get the layer of liquid fual on the port floor to re-enter the intake
charge as small enough droplets to burn. liquid fuel is not wanted in the
cylinder - it only decreases mileage/power, and increases emmisions and
cylinder washdown.

i really think the thread is now beaten to death with no real solution or
answer derived.

and as for places that sell these things, like summit. they are not to
blame. people buy/sell what people want. summit has never misdirected me
on any tech calls and when they had no idea, they gave me number to call
someone who had the answer. they sell it because people will buy it. they
are there to make money, not decide what is best for you. you must become
knowledgable and make your own decision, just like anything else in this
world. listen, read, see, and hear, and be critical of all information.
ask if you don't understand, and ask some more when you do. only then
will you be able to make an intelligent decision and choose what you feel
to be right. and if all else fails, experiment and try it for yourself.
or get some sucker to try it first -- just kidding! :)


ps - my dad always said i had to have the last word ;)


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 17:45:51 EST
From: Ractrk002
Subject: Re: 1967 f100 snow/ice

I'm considering putting snow tires on the 15x7 wheels I have the 255's on for
next winter and then getting a set of 15x8's and fatter tires for those warm
days. Probably would swap them out on those warmer and dry winter days


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:22:14 -0500
From: Barry
Subject: Re: Bed time (floor replacement)

sdelanty wrote:
> So, this spring I'm gonna replace the lumber with some nice oak planks
> all milled up like the origionals, with stainless steel flatbar to
> replace the beat up origional steel divider strips.
> My questions are these:
> How heavy is the bed? Once it's unbolted can 2 people pick it and
> move it, or do I need to buy a 12 pack and invite more friends?
> It looks kind of awkward and "floppy", just 3 sides and a tailgate...
> Any good advise, tips, warnings, etc, on removing/replacing the bed?

If you remove what is left from the wood from the bed prior to removing,
then two (very large and muscular) people should be able to remove it.
But just to be on the safe side, I would get the six pack and ask some
friends over.
When I recently removed the bed from my 65 step side, I found that
removing the bed bolts and the plank bolts was almost impossible. Expect
to have to replace all the bolts. If the planks are in that bad shape
then the bolts are probably rusted just as bad which means cutting them
loose or getting a cheater bar and breaking them.

> What should I do to protect the oak? I'm undecided whether to paint
> the wood with a plastic "Varathane" type coating, or to just use some
> kind of oil on the wood to waterproof it.
> Anyone got some thoughts for me on this one?

I'm still debating this one but I think I'm leaning toward the Varathane
or clear acrylic per the recomendation of a body shop friend of mine.

> Surely someone out there has replaced the bed floor in their truck and
> has some words of wisdom for me...
> All thoughts welcome, thanks!
> Steve
> I love deadlines. I especially like the
> whooshing sound they make as they go flying by.
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: ----------+


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 16:30:39 -0800 (PST)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: Retrofitting a rear swaybar...

Well, I finally managed to ifnd a parts truck to pull a rear sway
bar off of. After all, my truck doesn't handle enough like a brick as is.
In the process of pulling the sway bar from the rear end of the parts
truck (70-something F-250 w/Dana 60 rear end) I noticed this little
cylinders shaped protrusions on the axle housing. It looks like they are
there for the sole purpose of holding the mounts in the same place. The
bad news is that my 9" Ford rear end doesn't have these little
protrusions. Anybody out there think this is going to be a problem? If
it is how could I solve it. I don't weld, so I can't just weld something
on. :( TIA.

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel H. JenkinsFood for thought: John Milton
djenkinshonors.unr.eduwrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
Honors Programwife died he wrote _Paradise_
University of Nevada, Reno_Regained_...


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 20:13:02 EST
Subject: Gaskets

Does anyone have a source for hard-to-find gaskets?

I'm looking for some discontinued front hub gaskets (76-77 F-250 4x4), one of
them is metal...


Colorado Jeff


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 18:12:33 -0700
From: (Bradley D Frank)
Subject: [none]

I just bought a 1972 F100 two weeks ago. I am already finding things
wrong with it. First of all it leaks and burns oil as if it was going
out of style. Second I am find that the 360 ci motor in it, even with
the 4 speed, eats gas and thinks I am rich to support its eating habbits
(8 miles in the city). The guy I bought it off of, had done some floor
work to it and even then it doesn't seem all that solid, another project
in itself. It's got poly tread tires on it (not steel belted) and mainly
floor rust. I am here in Utah where they salt the roads during winter.
If anyone has some tips for me, I'm thinking that this will be a
worthwhile project. Defineatly a step up from my corolla! Plus if
anyone out there can tell me where to find a Throttle body conversion,
I'd be thankful for life. Any suggestions email me - -


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 11:05:16 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Bed time (floor replacement)

Deacon wrote:

> Don says it's easy with two people. I wonder what he'll say when he
> finds out he's the other person? Easy changes to hard fast when you ask
> for help after you ask for an opinion! :)
> Deacon Blues

I managed to shove around a short step side bed myself when I took it

I figured you will be in town to resurrect the grinder and I could be
there to hold your beer for ya. ;)

- --
Don Grossman

I'll get this web thing figured out yet!

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 18:35:50 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Screens, flames, and such.

Excuse me Harry, Robert

I don't mind a good fight but could you take this one off the list?


All in favor......

All opposed.....
- --
Don Grossman

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 22:06:44 -0600
From: "Dennis K. Austin"
Subject: Re: Buying a used Ford Truck...

This is really directed at you as a suggestion, but having to get caught up on my
e-mail I keep seeing the question about what to look for when buying a used Ford
truck. I think its time to make this a technical article along with the brake
conversion. Think you can get some volunteers?

- -=DENNIS=-


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 22:18:55 -0600
From: "Dennis K. Austin"
Subject: Re: Cooler fuel

Been out a while... But, while catching up on e-mail and lots of msgs on the best
way to get more bang out of your fuel I remember an article a long time ago in one
of the hot rod mags that did a fuel line conversion to cool fuel.

What they did is take one of those accessory mini-radiators that you sometimes see
for power steering pumps to cool the fluid. Then they found a square container that
would hold this thing with comfort. It was sealed to prevent rust and insulated
with a wrap around black foam. The fluid lines came through the side of this
thing. It was placed in line to the carb. Supposedly, it worked great for dry ice
to super cool your fuel at the drag strip or Friday night street racing. The rest
of the week, without ice, you drove your wheels to work normally.

I don't remember the HP increase they claimed, but they put it together for a few
bucks without using HP to do it. They also had a design for an on board/on demand
bleach box setup to scare your competition, but we will talk of that later.

- -=DENNIS=-


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 21:23:59 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Bed time (floor replacement)

>Don Grossman
>I'll get this web thing figured out yet!

I get it! Quick one Don. "duckdon" "web thing"? You funny guy! :)

Deacon Blues
Truckin' , I'm a goin' home,
Whoa whoa baby, back where I belong,
Back home, sit down and patch my bones
And git back truckin' on.
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 23:30:31 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights!

>So, maybe you can check w/ the local VW shops or the better stocked
>electronics shops to find these babies.

I went down to the local parts store and looked in the "help" section for
replacement headlight sockets. Cost me something like $2 a piece. I
braided/spliced the #14 wire to the wire on the socket, coated it with a
thin coat of solder and covered with heat shrink tubing.



Home Page:
Ford Page:


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 22:51:29 -0800
From: Randy Collins
Subject: Re: Bed time (floor replacement)...Finishes


I would caution you against using any type of clear finish on the
replacement wood for your bed. Spar Varnish was recommended as a clear
finish If you must use a clear film build type coating Spar Varnish is
probably your best choice. The Spar varnish should stay flexible enough to
work for a few years. I recommend that you seal all 6 sides of the wood.
I would thin the first coat at lest 30% to 50% to allow deeper
penetration. I would then put two additional coats on at the recommended
reduction rate. Maybe in your area if you have few freeze thaw cycles the
clear finish might be satisfactory for a while but in Idaho and similar
climates it will probably look pretty rough in two to three years. The
deterioration will then accelerate rapidly.

My choice would be an oil of some sort. Probably the best is just plain
old tung oil. The oil finish will require more maintenance than the clear
film build type finish but the big advantage is that when it gets tired it
will simply fade away. Ever seen what a failing clear finish looks
like. When they delaminate they turn white or cloudy. It's not very

Apply the tung oil to 6 sides of the wood. Put on as many coats as you can
tolerate. Do you have a neighbor kid you can hire? Maybe 4 to 8 coats
with ample dry time in-between coats. You will be able to tell when the
wood is complete sealed. You will need to maintain this finish by
applying tung oil as needed. As need is probably a coat or two every six

Someone made a reference to teak. Teak also gets my vote. The comment I
remember had to do with the natural oil in the teak. I believe this is
true. However I believe that teaks ability to resist grain checking it the
main reason to use this wood. I think oak is a good choice as a "runner

Hope this helps,


Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho

1975 Ford F250 4WD Supercab "Muscle Truck"
Short Block Completed...Heads Sitting on the work bench!


Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 01:29:52 -0600
Subject: Car Magazines.

Has anyone noticed, or is it my latent paranoid tendencies sprouting hair to
my outer skin, that nearly all car magazines are full of stupid s**t that
makes having a decent ride either prohibitively expensive, or totally
unsuited to real-world use, while proclaiming their miracle combinations to
be the ultimate in multi-purpose technological wizardry? Give me a break.
Hot-Rod's NMCA is such a thing, Street Machines, Muscle Cars, Real-Street,
and the almighty Pro-Street.... they are nothing more or less than what
they've always been; high-dollar race cars disguised as street-driven cars.
Our local 1/8th is getting worse all the time with the trick of the week
whiz-bangers. Delay boxes,trans-brakes, nitrous, all this, to run at a $1000
purse for Super Pro. OK, they want to spend their money, fine. But now the
Pro boys,7.99 8.99 are running this stuff now. Very little more is required
than pushing the button and flooring the accelerator,then letting go of the
button when the green pops. It is an 1/8 mile track guys....
Truckin, everything is slammed, SB Chevied with Hot-Rod's miracle engine
with a 10,000 watt stereo to annoy everyone with. Boring.....I see these
rigs cruising all the time, individuality was the original reason for
cutting up a pristine '56, so how come they all look the same?
And what I absolutely can't stand, is the unashamed way that what used to be
our forums for high performance information, restoration information,
enthusiast information, are plugging advertiser of the month gimmicks.
Robert's point is a good one. We used to measure the validity of a claim by
whether it is true,and works, not by what a magizine said it could do.
Take the sudden praise for the lowly 390 that we see from time to time now
in the magazines as an example. They used to call them boat anchors. Now
that Edelbrock makes everything for them, you know what, those old engines
are surprisingly strong. Edelbrock made their whiz-bang head but had to go
back to the drawing board and take up some of Uncle Henry's original ideas
to make it work as well as a stock head! Surprise, surprise, surprise. I
saw them kickin a** back in the 70's, but you had to use real skill to build
one to hold together. No blister-packs of high-performance were needed, just
a good understanding of what makes an engine scatter and not doing it. So
now it's a viable high performance build, and well they are a little lighter
than we thought....
"Magazines are a for-profit organization, and information therein should be
taken with that in mind..." That would be a pretty good disclaimer, eh?

Preferred Company


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