Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 03:50:25 -0700 (MST)
From: (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #179

fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, March 25 1998 Volume 02 : Number 179

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
In this issue:

Re: Read End Gear Ratio [sdelanty ]
Re: Timing Retard [sdelanty ]
Vin Decode [ (Jon E Purut)]
RE: Check out my site [ (Jon E Purut)]
Re: 16 or 16.5's? ["Deacon" ]
Re: timing retard []
Re: Timing Retard []
Re: rear axle ratios [sdelanty ]
Re: 16 or 16.5's? []
Re: FE Water Pump [Pat Brown ]
Re: need some info [Pat Brown ]
Re: Check out my site [Joe DeLaurentis ]



Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:49:11 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Re: Read End Gear Ratio

Keith Srb wrote:
>I am going to replace the 240 6 cylinder in my 66 F100 with a "mildly
>built" 390. I plan on using this truck for street and strip driving. No
>more hauling/towing for this girl. I plan on using the Warner T-18
>Transmission for the time being.
>My question is, right now I have 3.53 gears in the rear end. Will this
>ratio work for street/strip use or should I change them to some other
>ratio?? If so what ratio??

My '71 F100 w/FE390 and T-18 has a 3.50:1 rear axle.
I like it O.K, but if I get a chance I'm going to change it to 3.0:1.
I'd like my freeway RPMs to be a bit lower in hopes of a bit more gas
mileage. Last year I had access to one of those "dragstrip dyno" programs
for a while and I entered all the particulars for my truck and started
fooling around a bit. Much to my surprise, it indicated that the
best 1/4 mile E.T.'s were to be had with about a 2.80:1 gearset!
Part of the improvement was from less wheelspin on launch, and part
from being able to run to a higher MPH in second and third gear.
The very best indicated times were with about a 3.0:1 gearset and 450
lbs of extra weight on the rear wheels...
(FWIW, I weighed my truck last year, totally empty with about 5 gals
of gas and got a total weight of 3980lbs, with 2360lbs on the front
and 1620lbs on the rear.)
I take the numbers from these "dyno" programs with a grain of salt,
but they are probably at least in the ball park.
IMHO 3.0 gears are probably about the best for a combination of
street/strip in a F100 with 390 and the nasty wide T-18 ratios, but
the 3.50 gearset isn't too bad.
It also depends on what tire diameter You run. Mine are about 29.5"...


Though good may come of practice, this primal truth endures;
The first time anything is done, it's done by amateurs.
-- Art Buck


Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:49:14 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Re: Timing Retard

>> Well, yeah it's simple and cheap but rather a dissapointment for
>> of us who were hoping to get a few degrees of ign retard on demand at
>> the flip of a switch!

Harry wrote:
>It CAN be done, guys. Just not as simple as you had hoped. I was
>looking at some superchargers and I know at least one of them came
>with an ignition upgrade kit. This kit used a knock sensor and
>automatically retarded the timing. I don't see why you couldn't
>put one on any engine. Or maybe there is a way to use on from a
>newer truck that uses a knock sensor.

I'd like to play with knock sensors, they seem rather interesting.
From my understanding, one of the big problems is that knock sensors
are "tuned" to work with a particular engine. The frequency of the
"knock" sounds are apparently related to bore diameter and combustion
temps and some other voodoo and are specific to a particular engine.
At higher RPM's it becomes difficult to distinguish the sound of knocking
from valve train and general engine noise, and the OEM's go to great lengths
to place the sensor in a good location and use some pretty fancy electronics
to filter out the non-knock noises. A lot of it is now done by processor
to get it all figured out. This subject comes up pretty often on the
DIY-EFI list, and there's been a hell of a lot of good info about knock
sensors over the last year. It seems like knock sensors are a good
thing to help with ign timing management, but unless You've got a big
budget to spend on test equipment and development time it's probably
a pretty tall order to come up with a working system on an engine that
wasn't equipted with one stock...
Still, I would like to get a few sensors from the wrecking yard and play
with them on the 'scope, if for no other reason than the educational value.
I know there's at least a couple other DIY-EFI people on this list, can
anyone else add some comments/corrections/enlightenment about knock sensors?
They seem like a cool thing if we could get 'em to work right on an FE! (-:


Though good may come of practice, this primal truth endures;
The first time anything is done, it's done by amateurs.
-- Art Buck


Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 23:20:48 -0500
From: (Jon E Purut)
Subject: Vin Decode

A list member asked me about the six cylinder engine that is in the F500
I am buying. I do not know anything about it other than the horsepower.
Can someone decode the vin for me? It looks like the 240/300 only with
the intake/exhaust on the driver side of the engine.

Vin: F50JN462578
Color: G
Body: 181
Trans: F
Axle: 3


Jon E. Purut
Visit my site

1964 F500 (114 HP at 3500 RPM)
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wife's car)


Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:53:27 -0500
From: (Jon E Purut)
Subject: RE: Check out my site

>From: Jon E Purut
>>Hey guys. I put a page together on the F500 that I am buying this
>>weekend. Check it out and tell me what you think. This is an amateur
>>attempt at web authoring so please be gentle but honest.

>Good job Jon! I hope no one steals your cool cool cool Ford GIF! I would
>never do such a thing! :] That's a truck and a half! What are your plans
>for it?

>Deacon Blues

Where do you think I got the gif from in the first place. One of the
other list members should recognize it from their site.

When I fix it up for now I am going to use the truck at my wife's uncle's
farm. I need to get the feel for it first. I have never owned a truck
that big so I am not sure what other things can be done with it. The main
reason I am buying it is the price. The seller wanted $800.00 at first. I
was the only one who inquired about it so he cut it to $400.00. He just
wanted to get rid of it so he cut it more to $250.00. I just had to have
it then. I love a bargain.

Jon E. Purut
Visit my site

1964 F500 (If I held out longer it would have been free)
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car)


Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:37:30 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?

>Since we are on the subject of 16.5 wheels......
>Does anyone have a set of 16.5 X 9.75 stock wheels you want to sell or
>E-mail private

Man, you want some wide wheels! How wide did they come? The wheels
Don's getting from me are 16.5 X 8.25. There called "FanJet Racing Wheel
by Fenton". That is, if these are the wheels Don's looking for.

Deacon Blues
Truckin' , I'm a goin' home,
Whoa whoa baby, back where I belong,
Back home, sit down and patch my bones
And git back truckin' on.
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage

- -----Original Message-----
Date: Tuesday, March 24, 1998 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?

>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: ----------+


Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:56:44 -0800
Subject: Re: timing retard

sdelanty wrote:
> I've also thought about a purely mechanical setup with a screw mechanism
> on the body of the distributor so that turning a knob on the dash rotates
> a cable (like a speedo cable) that turns the screw and physically moves
> the distributor. So many possibilities, so little time...

Ok use locktite on a stud where the dist hold down bolt goes, then use a nylock
lock nut on top of the stud but don't tighten it all the way. next install a
push-pull cable like a choke and voila adjustable timing.

Probably would work best in an all or nothing usage you could vary it but dist
rotation might be hard to control.



Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:59:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Timing Retard

sdelanty wrote:
> I'd like to play with knock sensors, they seem rather interesting.

Why not just install a 460 and not worry about knock!



Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 23:02:03 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Re: rear axle ratios

>>Can you shift the T-18 well enough to get down the strip? Most guys
>>go for the C-6 for that purpose?

>That is a good question, I do not know. That is one of the reasons I want
>to stay with the T-18. It will be a challenge to see if I can. Right now
>I do not know how hard the racing bug will bite me either. If it bites me
>hard enough, then I will switch to the a C-6.

My T-18 is dead dog slow to shift, and the ratios pretty well suck.
Granny 1'st is usless, so You've got a 3 speed with ratios something like
3.2:1 2nd, 1.7:1 3rd, and 1:1 4th...
That's a big wide spread btween gears and You gotta make a bundle 'o torque
over a wide range to make it work.
If You want to do any serious strip work You'll probably need to score
a big-block toploader or go with a C6. The T-18 is a great tranny, very
rugged and dependable, but it's a horrible choice for a truck that spends
any serious time at the strip.

>Something else I should of mentioned, I am planning on putting a lot of
>work into the suspension to try and get the truck to launch as hard as
>possible off the line. I am not just going to drop in the motor and go

Getting a F100 with a 390 to launch hard is gonna be largely a matter
of traction. Move as much weight as possible over the rear axle. Battery,
fuel tank, anything else that ain't nailed down...
I used to run a lot of 1/4 miles back in the late 70's at the now extinct
Baylands raceway in Fremont, Ca., but much of my experiance is with
(don't laugh now) a '67 VW bus (15.83 87mph, 110+mph top speed!)
and Kawasaki 2-strokes(KH500)
Got to ride in a friends 9.2x second AMX a few times also...
God, I miss wednesday and sunday nights at baylands!

If I was serious about 1/4 miling my F100 once in a while, I'd go with
a C6 and start with the 3.5x rear axle, move all the weight I could to
the rear, and do what ever suspension mods it takes to get a pickup to
grab some asphalt...
Go stomp some ch*vy trucks!


I love deadlines. I especially like the
whooshing sound they make as they go flying by.


Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 23:09:59 -0800
Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?

33 x 12.5

Need I say More!!

Of course I will say more, right now they are on the stock 16.5 x 6.5
No tread in the center tons of tread on the outsides.

I have been told that 16.5 x 9.75 was the widest STOCK Ford wheels. I want to be
able to use the stock hubcaps!

I know Stocton Wheel will widen each stock wheel for about $60.00 plus shipping.
but I would need to buy one more wheel to be able to have this done and still
drive around.



Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 01:06:15 -0600
Subject: Engine ID Tags

According to the Mitchell National Service Data manual, the tag under the
coil is the Engine I.D. It will have a letter on it somewhere that will key
to application and will match the engine I.D. on your data plate. Don't be
surprised at the bum dope at the dealership, they're too busy doing head
gasket jobs on 3.8 Mustangs at $1200 a pop to think about much else.
A question for the four-wheel guys, (sorry for double-dipping here)about my
Dana 24 T-case. The front yoke on the T-case has some side to side (or up
and down if you prefer)play on it. I figured that it needed tightening, but
upon looking at it, I discovered a cotter-pin arrangement. I got the pin out
and tightened the nut with an impact, now I can't get a pin back in. There
are no torque specs for this flange, so I figured that since most go up to
110 to 120 lbs ft the impact was about right. My brother-in-law who is a
really respected mechanic around here says not to be concerned, that the nut
can't back off enough to loose the flange from the yoke anyway, and that the
play I feel is OK. You can still rock it around about the same as before,
does anyone know how much play is acceptable? I have 90wt in it now, but the
Ford manual reccomends 50wt, what do you guys run in it? It is quiet in 2H,
and has what I percieve as the normal straight-cut gear whine in 4H. A
little sweat on it, but no major leaks. Specs on other makes with
sister-cases use 80-90wt.

1965 F250 4X4 NP435 FE of unknown origin
1967 F100 390 C-6
1995 Contour 2.0 5-speed

Preferred Company


Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:02:44 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FE Water Pump

Jim Pointer wrote:
> Subject: FE water pump
[ snip ]
> So, since I'm now getting ready
> to replace the water pump on my truck (66 F100, 352), are
> there any tips, tricks, or gotchas that any kind person on
> the list can point out? Thanks...

Hi Jim-

Well, I've seen a few posts giving good advice, so I'll add my 2 cents-
How's your timimg chain? With the water pump off, your about 90% there.
Good time to check it and replace, especially if equipped with original
nylon gear.

Pat Brown, Sebastopol, California (Was Pine Grove, as legend has it,
renamed after a huge bar-brawl brought references to the Siege
of Sevastopol, Russia. End of OT history lesson :-)


Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 23:20:00 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: need some info

roger kubler asked:
> I am in need of some tech. knowledge. I have recntly
>purchased a 1967 Econoline Pick-up. It is in fantastic shape, needing
>only cosmetics, inside and out. My query is on how many were produced
>in 1967, the last year of these?

Roger, I was looking for the same info about my 1970 Crew Cab. At
my local library, in the reference section, was a book "Standard
Catalog of Light-Duty Trucks". Sorry, I didn't write down the
publisher. This book list a ton of info about trucks produced over
the years, including VIN decoding, options, prices (in 1970, trucks
were generally about $0.75 to $1.00 a pound :-), and production figures.

1970 F-250 production figures are given, along with break-outs for
Styleside / Flairside and other options, but unfortunately for me, no
further breakdown for crew cabs.

I copied only the 1970 Ford section, I see they do give break-outs of
econoline production for that year, perhaps you can find this book
in your library. Maybe someone here owns a copy?

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California


Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 05:02:29 -0500
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: Re: Check out my site


That cool Ford Gif Looks Familiar :)
Your site looks good....If I can help in anyway let me know
68 F-100
70 F-250


End of fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #179

Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979
Visit our web site:
ENDTAG; } ?>