fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, April 21 1998 Volume 02 : Number 224

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
In this issue:

Re: Soaked Brake Shoes ["Bill Beyer" ]
RE: head gaskets and compression question [Sleddog ]
Owners manual [ (RANDY D)]
Re: Soaked Brake Shoes [Ractrk002 ]
Re: head gaskets and compression question [George Herpich
Re: Soaked Brake Shoes [George Herpich ]
Spare tire carrier ["John LaGrone" ]
Soaked Brake Shoes ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
re electric fuel pump ["JONATHAN RICHARD BUCK" is online! [Mike Schwall ]
Spare tire mount ["P.J. Warren" ]
does anyone have any info? [Scott ]
Re: 1965 F-100 [ (Roberta S Garner)]
Re: 1965 F-100 [A64F100 ]
Re: 1965 F-100 [Steve & Rockette ]
Soaked Brake Shoes [ (Jon E Purut)]
Re: 429 for $85.00 ["Dennis K. Austin" ]
Late, and Misc. Rambelings. ["Chris Samuel" ]



Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:46:30 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Soaked Brake Shoes

I recall from his earlier posts that Jon was out on a farm too so you're
right about not hitting much. Please don't get me wrong I'm not using
"shadetree" as a derogatory term, just as an amateur working at home, heck
I'm strictly shadetree myself. Nowadays computers are what put the food on
my family's table. I work on trucks/cars/motorcycles for fun (!?!?) tho'
sometimes I wonder!

Hey if the shoes look serviceable when Jon's done cleaning them then go for
it! I was just relating some of the experiences I've seen personally.
- ----------
> From: Deacon
> To:
> Subject: Re: Soaked Brake Shoes
> Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 1:22 PM
> You are absolutely right in those conditions my friend. I thought
> this truck was on a farm and this wouldn't pose that much of a threat
> even if the liner did come loose. I've lived in the city all my life so
> my idea of living / driving on a farm is if you hit something it was
> already a veggie. :)
> I could see the condition of the brakes on my truck and after I
> cleaned and inspected them I felt there was no harm done. After
> installing them I paid close attention to be sure they weren't making
> noise or frying inside the drum. To tell you the truth if it wasn't for
> the fact Jon's truck is on a farm, I wouldn't have been so laxadacsical
> (no it's not a word but I like it) with my suggestion of cleaning them.
> I'm confident in my judgment on what I do to my truck. But I
> wouldn't suggest something shadetree without seeing it for myself or
> feel conditions made it safe. Tell me Bill, wouldn't this be safe to
> suggest considering it was on a farm? Jon please tell me this truck is
> on a farm! When I say my surviving brain cells are strong, I'm comparing
> them to the dead ones! :] No kidding Bill, you worked in a shop so tell
> me if I'm taking too much for granted and I'll retract my suggestion.
> Last thing I would do is risk the safety of others! My ego isn't worth
> it.


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 14:37:05 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: head gaskets and compression question

thanks, i hope it is only a gasket too.


- ----------
Sent: Monday, April 20, 1998 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: head gaskets and compression question

sleddog wrote:
>anyone ever have oil in the coolant, a overheating (sometimes) engine but
>that shows very good compression? if so, what did you do about it??

I've seen it twice. Once on a 240/6 that had a 2" long crack in
#1 cylinder near the bottom of the bore. With the piston at BDC only
about 1/2" of the crack extended above the piston top. It was hard to
spot and I had to take the head off *3* times before I found it. )-:
Cure: new 300/6 short block

The other time was a non-Ford that had a head gasket leak from a coolant
passage to the valley area.
Cure: resurface head and block deck surfaces and replace head gaskets.

I hope Yours is just a head gasket...


Only those who will risk going too far can
possibly find out how far one can go.
-- T. S. Eliot

+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: ----------+


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 17:09:40 -0400
From: (RANDY D)
Subject: Owners manual

I just bought a 1978 f150 ranger as a doner truck it has a good 351m and
a automatic i am going to put in my 1970 f100 .The 78 has a owners
manual with it if anyone has a 78 ford truck and would like a owners
manual its FREE.
E-MAIL me with your address and i will send it to you .



Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:09:20 EDT
From: Ractrk002
Subject: Re: Soaked Brake Shoes

My dad has some thing called Brake Clean its mad to remove residues from
brakes and not leave one its self, its good for oil stains on drive ways and
grease on you hands. I think its made by CRC Ind.


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:17:51 -0400
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: head gaskets and compression question

Sleddog wrote:

> that's one source i didn't think of, but it certainly doesn't smell like tranny fluid and the tranny's oil level hasn't changed any.
> i'll be borrowing a radiater pressure trester tonight hopefully so i'll pressurize the cooling system and see if i can find any leaks

I hope you get lucky with the pressure tester. It didn't work on that FT. I suspect that was because oil pressure is much greater than
cooling system pressure. In my case it had to be a crack between an oil and water passage. How the hell was I gonna find that?George

> thank you
> sleddog
> ----------
> From: OldTrux[]
> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 1998 10:36 PM
> To:
> Subject: Re: head gaskets and compression question
> In a message dated 98-04-19 21:25:01 EDT, you write:
> >
> If you have automatic transmission, your trans cooler is located in the
> radiator (separate tube runs through the radiator core). If your trans cooler
> line leaks, because the trans oil pressure is higher than the radiator
> pressure, it will leal trans fluid into the radiator. A radiator shop can fix
> it or remove the trans lines and run them through a separate aftermarket
> cooler. ( cap off the fittings on the radiator)
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: ----------+
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: ----------+


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:39:05 -0400
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Soaked Brake Shoes

Sleddog wrote:

> brake cleaner. CRC is my prferred brand, but any will do. this stuff is
> the most vital canned substance that automotive stores sell. except oil of
> course. laquer thinner will most likely work too.
> sleddog

I agree. I wouldn't take any chances with a customer's vehicle, but I wouldn't
think twice about doing it on my own stuff. Oil, especially 90w, is another
thing but brake fluid is alcohol based and will burn it's self out of there.
Maybe if they're bonded shoes and it's been soaked a long time the lining
could come of, as suggested before, but I never use bonded shoes.On the
subject of purchasing new shoes, on large trucks find the nearest truck brake
company and get them relined. They can usually do them in a day.

> ----------
> From: Jon E Purut[]
> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 1998 11:31 PM
> To:
> Subject: Soaked Brake Shoes
> Does anyone know the best way to clean brake fluid out of brake shoes?
> Can it be done?
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: ----------+


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:35:51 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: Spare tire carrier

Hey Stu, keep your eyes peeled as you travel the interstate. Seriously,
that's where I found mine. It was laying out in the median. I took the next
exit, doubled back and put it in the trunk of the Lincoln. I went to the
next exit again, doubled back again and continued my trip. My wife about
had a cow. A trip to the local hardware store located the right length
bolts, nuts and washers to hang it. You have to have an open end wrench and
Vise Grips to get it off (or a cutting torch I guess). I sure don't worry
about anyone stealing my spare!

Sleddog, I had coolant in the oil once. The engine ran great until it
pumped the water into the main and rod bearings. I am sad to say that it
was a cracked block in a cylinder wall in the lifter valley that had been
doctored so that I didn't find it until the crook I bought the truck from
was long gone. That's the truck I put the engine in dirt and all. I bought
a whole car with a trashed out body, used everything I wanted, then sold it
for scrap. That was the cheapest engine job I ever did.

- -John
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
1979 MC (my son is rebellious)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:55:45 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Soaked Brake Shoes

Farm trucks need brakes too!!
When I was 16 years old I was driving a grain truck for my cousin during
harvest. The truck was a '48 Dodge that was notorious for leaking away all
it's brake fluid. I had been driving around in the field all morning
chasing the combine. The truck was full and we were hungry so we headed
back to get some lunch and empty the truck. My cousin jumped behind the
wheel of the Dodge and asked me how the brakes were, "no problems", I said.
Of course at the time I didn't realize that I had been driving around in a
soft field in first gear and simply pushing in the clutch will quickly stop
the truck. He got that full load of grain moving down hill at about 30 mph
when he hit the brakes and the pedal went to the floor! We were about 75
yards from a double cattle gate across the road and the truck was still
picking up speed coasting. Somehow, I'm still not sure how it's possible,
he got that old Dodge into reverse (no synchros in that old thing) and used
the clutch to stop the truck and he stopped it about 5 feet short of the
gate. You could smell that clutch for days!

Sure no one would of gotten killed if we ran through the gates, but all
trucks need good brakes, and especially if you are going to carry heavy
loads as farm trucks typically are asked to do.

dale c


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 19:27:07 -0600
Subject: re electric fuel pump

> I was thinking that an electric fuel pump might solve the problem.

My dad 's '73 always ran terrible when it was cold. In the winter it
would take 15-20 minutes before it would get out of the driveway
without stalling. For years we couldn't get it to run decent, then
we moved and everyone said the ford mechanic in that town was the
best so we thought we'd let him look at it. All he did was put an
electric CHOKE on it and we have never had a problem since.


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 19:32:37 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: is online!

I finally finished transferring my web site to a new virtual server. The
new url for the Ford Fan Page is

Check it out. I also have a photo gallery. If you want to have pictures
of your Fords on display, send them to



Home Page:


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:43:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: "P.J. Warren"
Subject: Spare tire mount


I don't know if it was an option on trucks or not, it may have been a home
fabrication, but one of my Dad's '79 F250's had a spare tire rack that
bolted to the inside of the box. i'm sure it would work fine if you had
nearly stock size tires, but anything too big probably wouldn't fit to

P.J. Warren

broke college student who can't
afford a truck, but I keep on
drooling and dreaming


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:45:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott
Subject: does anyone have any info?

I just got onto this list, currently on the pre 60 one. Got an e-mail
from a guy and I don't have a clue on how to help him because it isn't
in my time range so I was wondering if you guys could help out. Here
is what he wrote:

My brother is trying to import an old ford truck into the Netherlands.
Now the customs want some information not available to us. I hope that
you can help me. The car in question is a Ford Ranchero Squire, built
in 1970.

We need to know what the maximun loading capacity of this car is and
also what het maximum capacity of the front and rear axl are.

About the engine we only know that it is 351 C cubic inches. We also
need to know howmany Horsepower it has.

Anything helps,
ps, could you e-mail me directly because i am having problems with the

1952 Ford Pickup
Please take a look at my 1952 Ford Pickup Page:


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 19:17:16 -0700
From: (Roberta S Garner)
Subject: Re: 1965 F-100

Just an update on this earlier message. The problem remains unsolved but
perhaps I have a few more clues as to what's causing the problem. I am
now on the third new battery. I was able to start and run the truck over
the weekend without any problem but when I went to start it this morning,
the starter initially turned over but before the truck started the
starter slowed down and eventually would not turn over at all. I then
tried jumper cables and the starter behaved the same way with the jumper
cables. While it was connected to the other vehicle, I turned the
ignition off and at one point, the starter continued to run (weakly).
There was also a great amount of heat that was generated in the jumper
cables during this process. Any new ideas would be appreciated. I
actually was trying to start it up to take it to a mechanic but never
made it out of the garage. This is how the problem has been manifesting
itself. With a charged up battery, I can usually get about 2 days worth
of driving (several starts) before this problem represents itself.
Thank-you, Roberta in Tucson, AZ.
On Sat, 11 Apr 1998 19:05:30 -0700 bertolinaJuno.Com (Roberta S Garner)
>Hi, I'm new to this list serve. I just recently purchased a 1965
>F-100. When I got it, the battery was old and leaking so I got a new
>battery but I am having trouble keeping the battery charged. It can
>usually be driven for a day or so and then I go to start it and the
>battery is dead. I took it to a mechanic yesterday and the
>diagnostics all check out O.K. All they found was a slightly loose
>connection of the negative battery cable. Anyone have any ideas what
>is causing this problem? I am not a mechanic but I love old trucks.
>Thank-you, Roberta in Tucson Az
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979
>--------------+ | Send posts to
>, | | List
>removal information is on the web site. | +---------- Visit
>Our Web Site: ----------+

You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 22:35:26 EDT
From: A64F100
Subject: Re: 1965 F-100

In a message dated 98-04-20 22:25:13 EDT, you write:

ignition off and at one point, the starter continued to run (weakly).
There was also a great amount of heat that was generated in the jumper
cables during this process. Any new ideas would be appreciated. I
actually was trying to start it up to take it to a mechanic but never
made it out of the garage. This is how the problem has been manifesting
itself. With a charged up battery, I can usually get about 2 days worth
of driving (several starts) before this problem represents itself.
Thank-you, Roberta in Tucson, AZ. >>

I experienced this problem with my '64 a while ago. I'm not sure about your
earlier post, so If I say something you've already tried, Sorry. What I did
first is replace the starter with a new one form Pep Boys (with a lifetime
warranty) Then I replaced the solenoid, since the bad starter screwed up my
old one. Then, I was still having a problem with the battery running dead and
didn't know why. Well, I don't know if it is supposed to go somewhere or was
added for something but there was a yellow wire that I thought went to the
center of the ignition switch. Well, I used my trusty test light to find out
where there was a "leak" and found out that that wire was hot, and was making
all the accessories on that center terminal of the switch hot also.. Hope this
helps a little...

Also, for what it's worth, I just fixed my Ignition problem, and one of my
valves decided to break, causing a hole in the cop of the piston, which in
turn expanded and cracked the #5 cylinder. Great huh? Well, now I'm looking
for a 400 in in good shape, with a Cleveland casting. well...

Scott L

*Keep It Ford Blue*


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:40:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: 1965 F-100

At 07:17 PM 20/4/98 -0700, you wrote

>. While it was connected to the other vehicle, I turned the
>ignition off and at one point, the starter continued to run (weakly).
>There was also a great amount of heat that was generated in the jumper
>cables during this process. Any new ideas would be appreciated.

The selonoid is hanging closed (circuit to starter is energized), or the
switch spring is broken. Does the key return to the "run" position on it's own??
My '63 almost ran me over, I had driven home from work, when I shut the truck
off the starter was still running, it wasnt engaged, just running. I
the battery in a hurry, the starter stopped running. Now heres the part that
makes me look like an idiot, I had shut the truck off, left it in gear, ( I
have a
flat driveway I usually dont even leave it in gear, or set the brake), When I
reconnected the battery, the truck tried to start. 8^0. Think about that for a
few seconds, there you are, leaning on the fender, and your leaning post
is trying to leave, without you.....
I quickly disconnected the battery, then went and changed shorts. Then I
jumped into the 57 and drove to the parts house for a new selonoid.

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 23:44:35 -0400
From: (Jon E Purut)
Subject: Soaked Brake Shoes

Thanks Sleddog, Bill and Deacon. Yes this truck will be used on a farm
with limited miles put on it at first. I will be using it to pull car and
hay trailers later on so I know the brakes will need to be top notch

There is a company here in town that sells heavy truck parts named of all
things "Brakes Inc." I called them today to find out what info they need
to have in order to look up the proper replacement parts. The counterman
told me what was needed so I will be calling him back tomorrow with the
info. I have been in their workshop area before when they lengthened a
drive shaft for me and saw that they reline customers shoes on site. That
may make it cheeper for me hopefully. I will find out tomorrow.

Jon E. Purut
Visit my site

1964 F500 (give me a brake)
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wife's car)


Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 00:37:23 -0500
From: "Dennis K. Austin"
Subject: Re: 429 for $85.00

Hey guys...went offline for a week and found 43 digest waiting to be read. Got 4
more to go. Anyway, the Thirfty Nickle here has an ad for a 429 for $85.00.
Though I don't have anything to put it in at the moment should I buy and store it
for later? My '65 has a 302 at the moment. Tell me what to look at.

Also, since the synthetics have been discussed and cussed at lot lately does
anybody make a Synthetic Gear Lube for manual transmissions? I don't want to
order it. I prefer something off the shelf I can find in a store. I paln to put
it in my ATA or NP 435.

- -=DENNIS=-


Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 22:43:06 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: Late, and Misc. Rambelings.

This is the first time that I have had to toss my pennies worth in a long
Why do other peoples projects take on such importance as the deadline
approaches… and what is that sound that they make?
Kind of a whining noise that gets louder as the customer and the date get
Please pardon my arriving to the discussion late but:

Synthetics are the only way to go period. All of the benefits out weigh
the cost.
I’ll skip the Slick Fifty et-al Debate! If you believe in it, use it.
If not, don’t. It won’t make any difference ether way! I tried! really I
did :-)
Pick the oil (or additive) in the package that you like and change it
often, believe in what ever brand you buy, brag about it, tell everyone that
you have found the slippery way to power, mileage, and long engine life, don
’t expect to change anyone’s mind; Live long and Slither.

Exhaust systems:
A mandrel bent single exhaust system starting with a good set of headers
and having a single 3" hi-flow Cat., and 3" "Super Turbo" race muffler will
work quite well on a 400CI engine making 375 Honest HP operating at a
maximum of 6000 RPM. This was an increase of 20HP over a 2.5" dual system
built by a local outlet of a nationally advertised chain. The dual system
was bent utilizing "crush bends", Good Quality Turbo’s and no cats!. The
single system passed the SMOG Fuzz; though the engine passed the sniffer it
took some "$lick-50’s" to get the Cert., and SWMBO (I Like that one!-) liked
the fact that it was quiet until you really got in it.
I agree with Sleddog that most exhaust systems have collectors that are
too short, with the definition of collector being the length of pipe before
any change in diameter occurs. There is a formula to calculate this length
and as soon as I have time to find it I'll post it.
My dyno experience has proven to me (YMMV) that under 3000 RPM a Try-Y
type header, or the split collectors offered by Hooker, Flow Master, Etc.,
are worth a significant power increase over the 4 to 1 type; over 4000 RPM
Tri-Y's contribute nothing, and over 6000 RPM they will hurt power.
On the street always run a Balance tube. Find the location by painting a
stripe of lacquer down from the collector, start the engine and run it just
long enough to burn the paint. If the headers work real well you will get a
skip in the burn about 10 to 20 inches back, this is where the Balance tube
should be placed. More likely the paint will just burn off down the pipe;
just before the burn stops is the tube location. There are lots of theories
as to the tube diameter. I use the same size as the exhaust tubing at that
point, unless space is an issue and then I will go down one size. I have
also ovalised the Balance tube and not noticed any appreciable difference.
The increase in flow between one diameter of pipe and another diameter
changes on the square of the increase or decrease, not on the area of the
pipe diameter. IG: a 2" pipe will flow 4 times more then a 1" pipe. This
indicates that the 3" single above should have made less power. Not all of
the dynamics of the exhaust system are flow related. The Finite Wave
Elements play a bigger part then most people understand (me too), including
a bunch of the so called experts!
Don’t rate mufflers by air flow numbers (CFM) in some recent testing on
the dyno one Saturday, we ran: Borla, Walker, FlowMaster, Gibson, and
some that I’d never heard of. The Flowmasters made the most power, at the
lowest noise level, and had the worst CFM numbers! Borla came in a close
second in the power to noise rating, not much more power, and much more
I hate it when the results of a test tell you that the part you don’t
want to use is the one that you should! I just don’t like the sound of the

Make it Stop first. Every form of wheeled racing requires good breaks to go
Make it Turn second. Even the lowly Drag racer must turn to get on and off
the 1320.
Make is Safe third. If this requires Competition Belts, and Roll cages then
build em to the highest quality. Period.
Make it Run fourth. Here is the fun part for most people! How much money
do you have??
Make it Legal fifth. I know boring! But like the street, every race class
has rules, just waiting to be bent!
Of course if the budget allows it Do Em All at Once!!!
The vary last thing is to make it look like... well what ever YOUR heart

To those of you I just offended… bummer!-)
To those whom agreed, we are a sick bunch aren't we!!
To those of you I have promised to send information, please remind me!!


Vary proud of my eldest! Senior in High School and a 4.0 GPA.
Where would I be if I had done that??


End of fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #224

Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979
Visit our web site:
ENDTAG; } ?>