Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 23:35:25 -0600 (MDT)
From: (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #253

fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, October 1 1997 Volume 01 : Number 253

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

RE: smog laws [Tom Hogan ]
C5??? []
Drum to Disk [ (George Schott)]
Oil pressure drops/360 [ (Rob Patelke)]
Re: Tire Size [Don Grossman ]
Re: Noise diagnosis (please) ["rons" ]
Window Stickers [Alan Mittelstaedt ]
Re: impact fee []
ADMIN: Window stickers, complete information and answers. [Ken Payne
re: Drum to Disk [Ken Payne ]
Re: the smog police are coming ["MICHAEL FRISCH" ]
C5???!!!! []
Re: the smog police are coming ["MICHAEL FRISCH" ]
Re: the smog police are coming ["MICHAEL FRISCH" ]
Re: ADMIN: Window sticker info ["MICHAEL FRISCH" ]
RE: Noise diagnosis (please) [Tim Baker ]
Re: Drum to disk. []



Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 15:07:11 -0700
From: Tom Hogan
Subject: RE: smog laws

To borrow from fellow Irishman Dennis Leary:
"I'm gonna go out and by a 1967 Cadillac Eldorodo (ugh! Make that a 1976
F350 Crewcab long wheel base land barge) HOT PINK with WHALESKIN hubcaps
and big brown BABY SEAL EYS for head lights and I'm gonna drive it down
the freeway at 75 miles an hour while eating great big greaseball cheese
burgers in the old fashioned non-biodegradable STYROFOAM containers and
when I'm done, I'm gonna chuck the containers out the window. WHY?
NUCLEAR #$%ING WEAPONS that's why. We've got the BOMB and no ones
gonna stop us.....(indecipherable mumbling, swearing sound of weapons
being loaded)"
A rant worth repeating to your friends!!

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----------------
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 11:40:32 -0700
From: Stuart Varner
Subject: smog laws

Tom, Tell us West Tennessee hillbillies who haven't even heard of the
smog Nazi's how you really feel!!!! (KIDDING) Having worked for a
major Oil Co.
in days gone by, I am aware of such crazy things brewing, I am just in
complete denial it will ever come to my home town for a showing!
XXX flics featuring left wing pinko communist, liberal, whale loving,
breast feeding, sandal wearing, tree hugging, take your daughter to
work day, foreign car (Volvo) driving, crispy critters freeze dried
from the 60's stuff. No flames please, trying to poke a little fun
with the greatest country in the world!!!
Write your congressman or tell him you'll vote his #$ out of office if
he doesn't ease up. May not do any good, but you do feel better after
such venting!

Nuke GM!


Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 18:24:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: C5???

I have A question I'd like some input on. I have a 1964 F-100 longbed,
custom cab with a '78 400M out of a Mercury Cougar. I was told that the
tranny is a C5, but soneone else who owns a tranny repair shop says it's a
C4-S. Is there a way to tell the difference? I have a Chilton's book on
that car, and it calls it a C5. Are there 2 different names for that tranny?
Also, I plan to use my truck for minor racing (showing off, basically) and
is that a strong tranny for doing so?

Thanks all,



Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 19:13:12 -0400
From: (George Schott)
Subject: Drum to Disk

I would like to have a sticker or two where do I send the money? Yoyr PO
box? Also I would appreciate it if you would repost the conversion info.
Every source that I've found for the power booster REQUIRES a core and I
can't find one anywhere. Thanks for the info. and a great place to hang
out hope the job search goes well.

Fine 69


Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 01:16:32 GMT
From: (Rob Patelke)
Subject: Oil pressure drops/360

Hello all,
This is a most interesting list. My '71 F-100 and I are quite new to it, and
we like what we've seen so far.
The '71's (360) oil pressure reading suddenly dropped this past summer;
previously after warm-up the pressure would stay up on the high side of the
gauge, even at idle, but now, after warm-up, pressure reading at idle is
nonexistent. At highway speed the pressure is in the middle area.
At startup the gauge reads as it always has- pinned.
The previous owner (original purchaser) says he ordered the truck with a
high-pressure pump.
I think (hope) this is a sender/gauge problem rather than a pump/bearing
problem, but I would sure like some more input.
Is there a way to check the sender; do they break down gradually?

- --


Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 16:48:07 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Tire Size wrote:
> A buddy of mine has a 79 f250 supercab 4x4, we just finished
> putting a clutch in it, what a task! Does anyone know what the biggest
> tire is that could be put on it, stock height? We were looking at
> 33x12.50 16.5lt. Also does anyone know where we could decipher the axle
> code? The tags are missin off the diffs. The code on the door says C7.
> Thank
> Rich

What kind of price are you looking at for those 33x12.5 16.5's? I was
looking at a set of Dunlop Mud Rovers, They are running 150 a piece
including M/B. With Dana 60's front and rear my quess would be 4.10's
unless there is some special option they could be 4.56, but highly
- --
Don Grossman

63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension


Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 19:54:16 -0400
From: "rons"
Subject: Re: Noise diagnosis (please)

I agree with Jim, plus anything back there could have shifted when you


- ----------
> From: deconblu
> To:
> Subject: Re: Noise diagnosis (please)
> Date: Tuesday, September 30, 1997 11:15 PM
> >Strange thing happened on the way to work today. Pulled out onto the
> >highway and "punched it", and then it started: clickita, clickita,
> >Thinking engine problem, I dropped shifter into neutral and revved
engine a
> >few times - no noise. Back in drive, under load ie: acceleration or
> >climbing a hill, the noise is back. Can even feel it in the floorboard.
> >Oh, by the way - 460/C6. I checked the fluid level and it is up to
> >Crawled underneath and didn't see anything obvious. I don't think it's
> >U-joint noise, they growl and clunk right? Also kind of a sudden onset
> >u-joints. Transmission maybe? I won't be able to work on it until a
> >from Friday (going out of town on business), but hope to get some ideas
> >prior to that. TIA
> >
> >Kevin Lindstedt
> Rear end? An Automatic would have more of a tendency to slip and I
> think if it was in the engine, putting it in neutral and gunning it you
> would have something noticeable. I wouldn't count out the U-joints.
Number 1
> they are the cheapest and number 2 you will need to drop the driveline
> both the transmission and rearend. Once my U-joints dried out and the
> shook like a dog passing a peach seed. When I went under the truck and
> checked them, they seemed OK because there was no looseness in them.
> out that was the problem, they were solid. So even though they growl and
> clunk they also have other cute little ways to let you know they are
> bad.
> Good luck on your trip! Don't worry, the problem will still be there
> when you get back! :)
> Jim Strigas
> Deacon Blues
> Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage for links to my favorite places on the
> And to the Thunderbird Knights Homepage for a look at my favorite cars
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: ----------+


Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 20:19:10 -0700
From: Alan Mittelstaedt
Subject: Window Stickers

I'm good for three... where do I send the dough?


Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 21:17:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: impact fee

I don't have any details on it, but I believe Florida used to charge an
"impact fee", (not sure if it was smog related) anyhow, I remember hearing
that it turned out to be illegal and the state had to refund the money to
ALOT of people. I know this ain't much help, but it makes ya think maybe
California's will flop too. All we can do is hope....

John Z.
67 F-100 460/C-6


Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 22:03:19 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Window stickers, complete information and answers.

Here are the answers to everyone's questions:

1. Stickers are one color: white on a clear background.
I choose white instead of Ford blue because Ford blue
won't show up on many windows with tinting.

2. Stickers cost me $140.00 for 100, making them a $1.40
each. Price drops after 100 as the initial price
includes screen setup.

3. Company is here in Atlanta, send me private email if
you want more info. Net searches on bumper sticker
printing will give you local information if you'd rather
handle it that way.

4. I'm giving them the design on disk as a JPG formated

5. Preliminary sticker design is on the web site.
Go to the bottom of the page and you'll see the link.
Sticker design is simple and to the point. Perhaps
in the future they'll get colorful. I'm open to suggestions
and submissions for the current sticker but it has
to stay one color or the cost goes up.

6. Sticker size is 12" x 3".

6. I'm selling them for $3.00. This includes shipping.
Money will go to support the web site/list expenses. Some
possibilities for an additional list are in the works.
The 1980+ list is getting rather large, bigger than the
other two lists combined. Let me know if anyone has
suggestions (such as a SUV list).

7. Send a check or money order is:
Kenneth Payne
FTE, Attn: Sticker
P.O. Box 422
Lilburn, GA 30048
Allow 2-3 weeks for shipping. Stickers will go to press this

8. After first 50 ship, I'll send out the freebie stickers
promised to donators. I still have the addresses. If I miss
someone, let me know.


Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 22:55:14 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: re: Drum to Disk

Find a 73-79 donor, since all the 4x2s (that I know of) had discs.

Parts needed:
1. spindles from a 73-79. will run $100-$200 bucks, depending on the yard
2. rubber brake hoses, $9-$15 each, specify 73-79
3. master cylinder and proportioning valve from junk yard $25-$40, 73-79
4. brake lines $1.50-$3.00 a stick, get 5 or 6 as you'll probably
mess up at least one. Also, get the longest they have, should
be 3/16" size line.
5. couplers, about a buck a piece. These are items you'll need if
you have to junction two steel lines together
6. bending and flairing tool $25
7. protractor, $1, for measuring brake line angles of the old lines.
8. bracket, I got one at home depot that I bent for about $2, to mount
the proportioning valve to the frame
9. new king pin kit. again, specify 73-79. $40-$65. You could use
the old 73-79 king pins, but I wouldn't.
10. new brake pads $15 (install them on the spindles before they're
on the truck as its easier)
15. new brake calipers. Might as well do this before the new
spindles are on. Makes the brakes as good as factory new.
$9-$10 per caliper. I actually paid $9 and got $15 back for
each core so I ended up getting **paid** 4 bucks each to buy
16. brake line clips, for fastening steel lines to each other and the
17. 4 gallons of Gatoraide
18. vacume booster assembly from donor truck if you don't have power

Removing the old spindles is very hard work, you need a torch to
heat them up and a very heavy hammer. I've met others who were
lucky enough to have trucks which had the pins lubed often enough
that they came out easily. Both times I've done the swap it was
a major pain. If you can find a suspension shop that will do the
swap, count on $200, plus you'll have to have a tow truck ready to
take it home. If you choose to do this part yourself, let me know
and I'll detail it. Its hard work, but not brain surgery. Basically,
lube the king-pins a couple of nights before. There are lube points
on the top and bottom of the spindles. Unscrew those lube caps, put
some penetrating oil in and put the caps back on. Then use a lube
pump to lube them, which should help force some of the penetrating oil
down around the kind pin.

Have the tire and brake hardware off when you get ready to remove
the king pin. Take off the caps, use a torch to get the area around
the king pin red hot (or damn close) and put a solid piece of hard
steel on top of the king pin (you can probably find some sort of
driver rod for this) and give it the hardest wack you can muster with
about a 48oz (or bigger) hammer. This is a real tough job at this
point. I can go into more detail if you want but you get the idea.

Put the new spindles on, fairly straight forward. Its just the
opposite of taking them off. Just remember to put the new king
pin bushing in place and try to be gentle driving the new king
pin in as you don't want to mushroom the end of it. Installing
is a whole lot easier than taking one out. Once everything is
back together, lube it.

Then, install the rubber brake lines. Swap the master cylinder (10
minute job), install the proporting valve on the left hand frame
rail behind the tranny support. You'll need to use the protractor
at this point to measure and bend the lines to orginal curves.
This is a bitch and is very time consuming when you're on your back.
Count on nearly a full day to replace the lines, flair the ends and
getting them to run as close as possible to the old line locations.
Next, bleed the entire system. Twice.... just to make sure! If
you need more details, let me know. I can walk you through this
procedure if you want me to. I converted my truck several months
ago and did a friends a month weeks ago. Its alot of work, not cheap
(but not expensive either), but the results are amazing. The
king pins are by far the hardest part. One word of advice, before
you install the new brake lines, get a scraper and remove all the
gunk and grease from the frame and all surrounding areas. This will
make the job a whole lot easier, not to mention not as unpleasant.

Align it. It will be so far out of alignment that driving it 1 mile
will probably tear the tires off (no kidding) if you don't end up in
a ditch first. If you can't align it yourself, get it towed! Do
not drive it in this condition!

Once the discs are in place, not only will it stop better and have
a lot less brake fade, it will stear easier with the new king pins.

It doesn't take technical expertise but it really can try the
average Joe's patience as it will take a whole weekend. If you want
to give it a try, let us know and we'll walk you through it.

- -Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8


Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 20:51:00 PDT
Subject: Re: the smog police are coming

> Did someone say I want alot for my money? :)
> Jim Strigas
>Deacon Blues


All I want to know is why the heck is all this being done,
Its not like they use the fees to clean the air??

The air quality in L.A. has gone down ever year since c.'83
The reason being that new cars have better smog and exaust emissions.

For the maybe
each year, its not going to cause a problem with air quality.

Think of all the classics on the road? IT belces and gags so much
exaust and smoke, they still passed it...

So I still dont understand why I have to pay a extra fee when I bought a
new car from out of state.

And YES, I do want alot fror my money...*s*..;)



Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 00:00:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: C5???!!!!

I have A question I'd like some input on. I have a 1964 F-100 longbed,
custom cab with a '78 400M out of a Mercury Cougar. I was told that the
tranny is a C5, but soneone else who owns a tranny repair shop
says it's a
C4-S. Is there a way to tell the difference? I have a Chilton's book on
car, and it calls it a C5. Are there 2 different names for that tranny?
I plan to use my truck for minor racing (showing off, basically) and is
a strong tranny for doing so?

Thanks all,



Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 21:03:08 PDT
Subject: Re: the smog police are coming

[california smog laws suck].

[california smog laws suck]

[california smog laws suck].

[california smog laws suck].

[claifornia smog laws suck].

[california smog laws suck].

>(ala Sam Kinneson RIP).

YOU GOT THAT RIGHT!!!!!!!...;)



Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 21:08:45 PDT
Subject: Re: the smog police are coming

>What exactly they do or add, I don't know but the underhood sticker
>states that the vehicle meets California and Federal emisions
>standards. This $300 impact fee is to make up for the added polutants
>you are going to be putting into the California air.

My truck puts out more smog!!!
and its a 100% CA truck.

Im a CA native, but never had to deal w/ this before..;(




Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 21:17:59 PDT
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Window sticker info


Ill take 2..
Put one on my dads Chebie...;)




Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 22:37:16 +0100
From: Tim Baker
Subject: RE: Noise diagnosis (please)

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not true it clicks under acceleration and deceleration check a chiltons

- ----------
From: George Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 1997 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: Noise diagnosis (please)

Couldn't be flex plate- no noise in neutral, if a flex plate clicks, it
clicks neutral and drive, I know that one by experience.

- ----------
> From: Gary, 78 BBB
> To:
> Subject: Re: Noise diagnosis (please)
> Date: Wednesday, October 01, 1997 4:15 AM
> > Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:22:35 -0500
> > From: Kevin Lindstedt
> > Subject: Noise diagnosis (please)
> > Strange thing happened on the way to work today. Pulled out onto
> > the highway and "punched it", and then it started: clickita,
> > clickita, etc.... Thinking engine problem, I dropped shifter into
> Might be the flex plate, just a guess, my son broke one and it
> clicked a lot before it gave up altogether. I had a module go out
> once and it kept the fire to the starter after releasing the key and
> burned up my starter. Couldn't hear it over the engine noise, don't
> know it it clicked or not :-)
> The swift of foot and slow of wit
> have more off road experiences
> -- Gary --
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: ----------+

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+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: ----------+


Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 22:36:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Drum to disk.

1967 Dodge Dart (sorry!) with 273 V8, didn't have power assist and
stopped fine. They use the same Kelsey Hayes calipers as 65 Mustangs,
and were a heavier car.



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