Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 03:50:24 -0600 (MDT)
From: (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #240

fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, September 25 1997 Volume 01 : Number 240

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Fuel tank coatings []
Re: (Fwd) 1968 Tran. and Cyl Head questions.... []
Re: Stock rim/tire size? []
Ohms Law []
Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #239 []



Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 20:22:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel tank coatings

>Any advise on fuel tank coatings? (favorite types, etc?)
>Should I even bother?
>It's made of clean, rust free 1/8" thick material, is it necessary to coat
>Steve Delanty

>If the fuel tank would only be required to contain fuel it wouldn't be
>necessary to coat it. Unfortunately, the tank will also contain moisture
>that will settle on the bottom. You need to protect the tank from the
>moisture or the 1/8" steel thickness will soon become less...on the bottom
>Manufactures protect their tanks by galvanizing. If you aren't familiar
>with galvanizing it is a process that leaves a layer of zinc on the surface
>of the steel. The whole zinc corrosion concept is beyond the scope of the
>note but you should be aware of it's presence and it's function.

Hi Randy,

Yeah, I'm aware that moisture is the problem, and I know about the hows and
whys of galvanizing. I had in mind something a bit simpler...
(altho I have anodized aluminum at home before. :-)

>More bad news:
>I have no faith in the readily available single component gas tank coatings
>I often see advertised. I believe that the sell quite a lot of these
>coatings and have few complaints simply because no one bothers to monitor
>the condition of the coating. Unfortunately a great deal of this goes on
>in the coating industry.

I can remember a couple decades ago I used some stuff that was 2 part...
You mixed can A with can B, poured this juice into the tank, and sloshed
it around for 10 minutes until it started to set up.
It seemed to work pretty good, but I can't find anything similar anymore.
Something like that was what I was hoping for...

>Other than having you tank zinc coated the only reliable method to coat the
>tank is to have the surface sandblasted and coated with an epoxy designed
>to withstand both the contact of the fuel and the water. If you need
>recommendations on specific products send me a note and I will give you
>names and phone numbers for their purchase.

If I can find my Grainger catalog under all this other crap, I can probably
find something good in it. I've got an account with them.
I just don't really wanna buy a whole quart of high $$ epoxy coating to
do the inside of a 2 gallon tank.. )-:
I'll probably just buy a sh!tload of fuel filters.

>Did you know that rust expands to 13 times the size of the steel? That
>ought to really plug up fuel filers!

Yep, even bigger if You coax it and feed it plenty of O2...
Rust is amazing stuff, ain't it?! Natures glue, and natures solvent, all
in one!
Did You know it never sleeps? Err, at least I heard that somewhere...

Oh well, thanks for the input!

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 21:13:56 -0700
Subject: Re: (Fwd) 1968 Tran. and Cyl Head questions....

>I have a 1968 F-100 with 3 spd and 352 V-8....
> ...what type of Auto Transmission would "bolt-up" and is there a
> match that would prevent changes to drive shaft, etc.???

A C6 from a FE352/360/390 truck should drop right in... All FE's used the
same bellhousing pattern. Dunno about drive shaft lengths.

> ...are competition/performance heads available? Any suggestions?

You betcha! Edelbrock makes a nice set of aluminum FE heads for
352/360/390/427, but they are something like $1400.00(US)

But wait..! What FE heads do You have??
Some FE heads breathe plenty good!!
Early (1958-65) FE head castings have the same basic ports as 428CJ heads!!,
and dressing these heads for the larger CJ valves makes them functionally
equivalent to the 428CJ/SCJ heads.. These heads breath plenty good!
The combustion chambers are larger (4cc's?) than later heads, so You
may need to have them milled a bit to bring it back up.
I've read that .020" = about 4cc's on these heads...
66-68 heads heads start to show the "downsized" intake ports, smaller and
lowered exhaust ports, and then air injection bumps and stuff...
What casting #'s do Your heads have? Look between the 2 center spark plugs
on either side for casting #'s....

I have a set of C1AE heads from a '62 FE352 sitting in my yard, and they have
the most *amazing* beautiful big ports.. These can be made into clones of
the 428CJ/SCJ heads with a simple change in valve size.
They's goin on my FE390 one of these days.! (-:

Let me know what Your head casting #'s are. You might have good stuff already!

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 23:01:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Stock rim/tire size?


I have 33x12.5 radials on the stock, 1970 F250, 16.5x6 rims. After I
bought them I found out that they were not recommended for rim widths
smaller then 8" ( thanks tire store ) They seem to be working fine. ( a
little too much crown which will probably cause them to wear a little
too fast )

A wheel widening shop told me that there was a factory stock rim that
was 16.5x9.75 has anyone heard of such a wheel ( 8 lug )


Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 23:20:36 -0700
Subject: Ohms Law


Thanks for the refresher. A few weeks ago I was trying to do some
electrical math and could not for the life of me remember. I am going to
save your E-Mail so I can refer back in the future.

Really, I am serious!



Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 03:36:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #239

I have a 48 f3 and am not interested in 61 to 79 please correct my listing

thank you


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