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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #302
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61-79-list-digest Thursday, August 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 302

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Holley Problem
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re 400W
Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
FTE 61-79 - Re: K-Line Bronze Valve Guides
FTE 61-79 - 292 Manifold Sources
RE: FTE 61-79 - 64 Crewcab Tire Saga
FTE 61-79 - cam selection
FTE 61-79 - Re: Differential gears
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding
FTE 61-79 - Re: What spark plug for Frankenford?
FTE 61-79 - RE: Plat plugs



Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 19:57:35 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Holley Problem

I have a 84 f-250 with a Holley-Motorcraft 4bbl.
Rebuilt the carb and now the accelerator pump sticks,
the lever won't budge.
Works fine off the truck and works fine for a while
on the truck. Linkage works freely
Had the Carter off of my 76 on it and it ran beautiful.
Would put a Carter on the 84,but it won't pass visual
smog inspection with out #$* Holley on it.
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 20:06:42 PDT
From: "George Litton"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re 400W

The easiest formula that I know of is: BORE X BORE X STROKE X No. of cyl X
.7854. Try it, it works every time!

George in Coeur d'Alene, ID

>From: "William S. Hart"
>Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re 400W
>Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 21:52:05 -0500
> > To get the displacement of an engine you need to multiply bore x
> > stroke x # of cylinders x Pi (3.14). A 400M has a 4.00" bore and a
> > stroke and 8 cylinders. (4.00 X 4.00 X 8 X 3.14 = 401.92 CID). A 351W
> > has a 4.00 bore and a 3.50 stroke (351.68 CID).
>You lucked out with this math bubba ! If it had been any other bore it
>wouldn't have worked, because the equation is actually bore squared divided
>by 4, but that for you worked out. But generally pi r square right ? :)
>then divide that by 4 to get the r square to diameter terms ...
>so your equation would look a little more accurate as
> (area of a circle)* height of cylinder * number of cylinders * Pi (off
>top of my head)
> 4.00x4.00/4x3.1415926 x 4.00 x 8 = 402.12 or whatever ..
>Just my $.02
>96 Mustang GT 4.6L
>73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 23:08:59 -0400
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

And when you get all that done take it to the machine shop and have them
mill off the extra metal so that it will sit flat..............
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Danger
To: FTE List
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 11:57 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

> > A mechanic friend of mine gave me his tips for using silicone.
> > 1. Cleanliness is NOT optional. No dirt or oil. His favorite was brake
> > cleaner. Dissolves oil and evaporates completely. You know it's clean
> a
> > clean finger draggs as you pull it accross the surface. If you hit oil
> > will slip.
> > 2. Let the silicone skin over before putting the parts together.
> > 3. Let it dry overnite after assembly before hitting it with a hot oil
> bath
> > (starting the motor) see #1 above.
> >
> > Some new car mfgs only use this stuff to glue their engines together (ok
> > mean seal the gaps) and if done right can be difficult to disassemble
> later
> > (that's good in this case right?)
> >
> > Tom H
> ........
> I think these are some very good ideas for using silicone, and not
> following these simple steps could lead to a pesky little oil leak.
> I'm surprised nobody on this list has mentioned that Steve Christ and
> Felpro both suggest to use non-hardening gasket cement to glue the cork
> place.
> :: snip from Steve Christ's book :: (page 136)....
> "Run non-hardening sealer around the four water passages - two in each
> cylinder head, one at each end. Lay the manifold-to-head gaskets into
> locking the two tabs with the head gasket.
> Run a 1/8" wide bead of non-hardening gasket cement along the front
> rear block surfaces. Dab a little extra in the corners near the heads.
> the front and rear manifold-to-block gaskets into place. Lift them back up
> gently several times to help the cement tack. When it starts to tack,
> the gaskets down permanently.
> Now add some silicone sealer on the top of the gaskets where the
> rear and side gaskets meet - make it a big dab. Use the non-hardening
> cement again and smear some around the water passages on the manifold side
> of the gasket"....
> I honestly don't recall the exact words used by Felpro but they also
> recommended adhesive (they listed part# on intake gasket set) along with
> use of silicone.
> I used contact cement which left no doubt about the gasket slipping.
> only problem is you must be very careful when setting the cork into place
> because you will NOT be able to adjust it once it touches the block. What
> Steve Christ and Felpro are referring to allow you to make adjustments
> before the glue sets.
> BTW:) I got a real big kick out of showing my grandmother what was under
> hood today. She is so concerned about oil leaks on her driveway, I had to
> show her how clean everything was."Oh my!" she says.
> Danger
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 20:18:52 -0700
From: "Steven Salas"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: K-Line Bronze Valve Guides

Brett asked about K-line valve guides. I use these everyday (I am a
cylinder head machinist). The product you are referring to are K-Line bronze
valve guide inserts. These are probably the most common bronze guides on the
market. The process involves reaming the existing guide to accept the bronze
insert and then inserting the new liner (hammered or pressed into place) and
broaching the liner (this basically bonds the old iron guide with the new
insert) and then reaming or honing to size. This a common method for valve
guide repair. The bronze have their pros and cons. Pros: bronze inherently
has less friction than iron guides and this allows them to be run at closer
tolerances usually reducing oil control problems. Cons: Bronze is soft
compared to iron, so if you have any geometry problems, this will cause side
loading of the valve stem and eventually premature guide wear. All things
being equal the iron guides generally last longer. My personal preference is
still bronze though. Hope this helps you make your decision easier. Best
Regards, Steve

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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 23:33:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 292 Manifold Sources

Now that the suspension/wheels are in fine shape,
It's time I turned to another nagging problem.
The exhaust manifolds are cracked and need replacing
before a proper tune up can be accomplished.

The intake manifold exhibits severe overheating due
to having to let it idle for 15 minutes before it
would run, for the past many years.
What did I know, now I know better.

Anybody have sources for original style intake and
exhaust manifolds? I'm not knowledgable enough to
know if there are different versions for different years.
It's on my '64 F100 CrewCab.

And no, I don't higher performance,
I'm happy with the KISS principle.
Keep It Simple, Stock.

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab

- ----------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 22:29:17 -0500
From: Jeff Lester
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 64 Crewcab Tire Saga

On Wednesday, August 25, 1999 9:45 PM, [] wrote:
> It was so good while it lasted. BTW, with the talk
> of A/C lately, just want to brag that mine still
> works great!
> Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab

Ok... ok... Jeff, that hurts 8^)

Jeff Lester - La Porte, Texas
78 Ford E350 4x4, 460, C6, NP205, D44/70, 35" BFG MT's, *nonfunctional AC*

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 00:00:21 -0500
From: "ben"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cam selection

I'm building my '71 400 and need some advise on selecting a cam. I have a
Edelbrock Performer w/a Q-jet(just because), and ported and polished '70
351C heads. I'm looking for somthing off-idle to about 5k, with the
possibility of headers. I found two cams for sale but don't know if there
what I want.

- -Keith Black cam and lifter kit for 1970-1982 Ford-Mercury V-8 Boss
351-351C-351M-400 CU IN. LIFT: Intake 484, Exhaust 510. DURATION: Intake
260, Exhaust 270.

- -Keith Black cam and lifter kit for 1970-1982 Ford-Mercury V-8 Boss
351-351C-351M-400 CU IN. LIFT: Intake 509, Exhaust 509. DURATION: Intake
274, Exhaust 284.

Which one would work the best if any? Any suggestions on different cams or
any other parts would help alot.

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 00:16:04 -0500
From: "Brett L. Habben"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Differential gears

Since we're on a math kick there's an easy way to increase your accuracy
on figuring out the gear ratio. Instead of just spinning the tire once
and eyeballing if the pinion has spun 1.6 or 1.7 or 1.8 times go ahead
and spin the tire 10 times. This will spin your pinion say 16.2 times
(or whatever). Multiply by 2 if you're just spinning one tire
(example=32.4). Then divide by 10 (example=3.24). Look up the closest
available ratio for your gear set. Ford makes a 3.25 so that would be a
good guess in this example.
On Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:37:48 MC wrote:
>Hi guys. I've been trying to figure out the gear ratio of my old truck,
>but seem to be stuck. The tag says 313 in the bottom right corner, but
>didn't believe it, so I jacked up one tire and spun the tire. I
>remember whether to spin it twice, or what, but I got about 1.6
>revolutions of the driveline for 1 rev of the tire and about 3.2 revs
>with 2 revs of the tire.

>Matt Cozad
>When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane.

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 00:10:02 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding

> Help... While doing my frame-off I replaced all of the lines and hydraulic
> components and am having difficulty getting the air out of the back lines.
> It is probably trapped in the loop around the pumpkin. My friend suggests
> jacking the back way up to try to get the air pocket to run to the wheel.
> Do you have any miracle suggestions?
> Brad

The best way to bleed the brakes that I'm aware of is to use a pneumatic
power brake bleeder (hand pump version is cheaper) with large reservoir (at
least half gallon) and force the fluid through without taking the risk of
air entering the system.
I would image the next best way would be to use a small hand held
vacuum pump (Mighty Vac) and connect it to the bleeder valve via a tight
fitting transparent hose and draw the fluid out the bleeder rather than push
from the master cylinder. Just be careful & make sure the master cylinder
doesn't get low on fluid and allow air to enter the system.
Then there's the old "my leg is getting tired" method which involves an
assistant which I wouldn't recommend unless you've only replaced the
calipers or cylinders and not the entire length of brake line.

I've used all three methods in the past, but I've finally bought a hand
pump pneumatic version with large reservoir and it's produced amazing
results. There was less than a .5% of a difference in the left-right brake
balance the last time I took my truck in for emissions & inspection.


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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 03:08:08 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: What spark plug for Frankenford?

> I finally have the 302 heads bolted to my 351W. Now I have a
> problem...The spark plus hole are too big. By that I mean that
> the plugs from the 351W heads are too small to fit the 302
> plug holes.

All of my 302 engines use the Autolite 25 or 26 plugs.

Odd that your 351W plugs are too small ... The vintage 1974
351W (all original) I have in my garage uses big plugs. Go figure :-)

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 02:59:25 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Plat plugs

About 10 years ago I had a VW bug (my first car) that my parents bought me.
I souped it up pretty good, and always bought my parts from one of the VW
gurus, Gene Berg. This guy lives and breathes VW's and VW engines. His
catalog was like a technical manual for improving every aspect of you car.
He would tell what worked, what didn't, even if that meant not selling you
a part he felt you didn't need. Anyway he put a set of platinum plugs in
his personal vehicle to test them. He kept meticulous record of mileage
(he's that kind of guy) and realized a 1-3 mpg drop with the platinum plugs
with no other changes to the vehicle.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Audi 4000CS Quattro - DEAD

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