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>From Sun Oct 4 06:10:33 1998
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 06:10:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: (61-79-list-digest)
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V2 #472

61-79-list-digest Sunday, October 4 1998 Volume 02 : Number 472

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - re: TABCO was re: 73-79 beds
FTE 61-79 - RE: Funny crossmember between radius arms - '68 F250
FTE 61-79 - Trim levels
FTE 61-79 - toe-in -
FTE 61-79 - Re: Funny crossmember between radius arm brackets
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: T-shirt contest
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: T-shirt contest
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need 72 long bed tailgate



Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 06:02:13 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re: TABCO was re: 73-79 beds

>The beds are from TABCO (don't know a phone number though). My friend
>one and it only lasted 1-1/2 years. The spot welds on the tailgate broke,
>the rear wheel well housings spot welds separated from the main bed side.
>my honest opionion....they are worthless

Just had to jump on this about TABCO. When I first got my '69truck, it
needed cab mount, floorpan and rear cab reinforcement rail work. I went to
TABCO for the repair parts for the rear reinforcement rails. Like many
places, they make a part that is to replace the outside downward-angled
section. Being new to this truck stuff, I shopped prices, and they were
about 20 each, and other places went as high as 80 each.
Well, If I had it to do over, I would probably go with Carpenter's at 50
each. I have not seen the parts, but they have a good rep. The TABCO parts
were possibly the worst part I have ever gotten from anyone.
1. They were formed on a pan brake, not stamped
2. The two parts (universal part, right and left) were not the same
3. Neither were fabricated square, on one, the two long sides were different
dimensions to each other at each end, and one was out over 1/8 inch across
10 inches.
4. The very outer angle on the bottom was formed by cutting the sides, then
bending the bottom up and welding it. None of this was done square. The
welding inside the joint was very cold with little penetration. Little
meaning only occasional, I knocked most of it off with a hammer and chisel,
no marks on the sheet metal at all.
5. The same weld joints, each one of them I could hold up and see light
6. The parts were sized so that they would fit completely over the old rail,
but if you did, the outside end would not tuck inside the outer cab rail
7. Even when I cut the old rail end out completely, the part STILL would not
fit properly, and I had to refabricate the angles to make it work.

To their credit, they did credit me substantially for the purchase. I used
one with modification, and kept the other as a source of mild steel patching
plate. The gauge of the metal was good.

I have seen TABCO fenders before (not for Ford trucks) I think if you are
getting a stamped, single-piece, bolt-on body panel, they are probably okay,
with the proviso that the gauge of the metal might not be the same, I would
inquire on that point, and their prices are good. However, any complicated
part requiring welds in its construction, or welded in panels like a rear
quarter panel, I would think twice about buying from them.

Jim E.

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Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 07:35:04 -0600
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Funny crossmember between radius arms - '68 F250

John. There are supposed to be bolts through both the radius arm brackets
and the frame. I think four of them under the frame rail. How did you get
the tranny out without pulling that crossmember, BTW???

The reason they aren't there is because they tend to be a PITA and someone
was too lazy to put them in. When I got my '67 the entire crossmember was
missing!! I had to jack the frame apart with a floor jack handle and a
bottle jack to put one in.

The holes hardly ever line up. I rammed grade 8 bolts through the holes
with and impact wrench, which helped to align them :-), and then tightened
nuts and lock washers on. I didn't strip out the threads at all.

I'm not sure if it's hurting anything or not not having these bolts it, but
I would imagine Ford put them there for a reason.

Hope this helps,

Drew Beatty

>Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 08:16:15 -0500
>From: John Strauss
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Funny crossmember between radius arms - '68 F250

>Just pulled the C6 out of my '68 for rebuild and I noticed there is a
>crossmember that goes between the radius arm brackets. The funny thing is
>it goes up from there on both ends and runs up under the upper part of the
>frame. Although there are holes there on both the frame and crossmember,
>there were no bolts (it is only bolted to the radius arm brackets). Are
>there supposed to be? This is a pretty original truck but I could believe
>the trans has been out before because one of the bellhousing bolts was
>missing. So, does anybody else have this crossmember and, if so, is it
>bolted to both the radius arm brackets AND the frame, or just the radius
>arm brackets?
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_}
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 08:57:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: "P.J. Warren"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trim levels

My dad had to 79's. The 4x4 was a Ranger with the tool box on the
passenger side and the other, 2x4, was a Lariat which had the dual tanks.
Would've cool if the box on the 4x4 would've been in better shape since
what we did was take the body and box from the 2x4 and put it on the 4x4.
I kinda liked the tool box on the side of the box.


Broke college student who can't afford a truck, but I still keep a droolin
and a dreamin.

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Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 09:38:02 PDT
From: "b hp"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - toe-in -

I have been following this list for about a month and I have to say that
it is really good. Perhaps someone could share some wisdom. I have a
1965 Mercury p/u (M-100?)(yes, I live in Canada), with a 240 |6. I don’t
think that there is any real difference between the Fords and Mercury
models. I recently replaced the fiber steering washer and tie rods. I
then set the toe-in to 3/8” …does anyone have the correct # for the
toe-in setting. I am not sure if 3/8” is correct, because the steering
feels heavy, although it is precise and the truck tracks properly. If I
increase the toe-in to ˝” the steering is more responsive but the truck
starts to wander when going over bumps and in the shallow ruts on the
highway. Which can be really disconcerting at speed. My tires are
new-ish and inflated correctly, the shocks are recent, bearings good all
round and there doesn’t seem to be any play to indicate kingpin wear.
Any suggestions?

Bruce -- 1965 Mercury p/u

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Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 13:56:59 -0400
From: "Kerry Walker"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Funny crossmember between radius arm brackets

Had to run outside and check mine. It has 2 bolts on each end on top of the
frame. '68 F100, came with an FMX. ( FMX recently sold for scrap )

Sort of off topic: My wife thought it was pretty funny (or stupid ) that I
ran outside to crawl under my truck like that. We could picture hundreds of
Ford truck owners acroos the country running away from their computers to
crawl under their trucks and check crossmember bolts :)

Did Ford ever put mechanical gauges in trucks around '68? Getting kind of
tired of those underdash gauges. I prefer mechanical ones, but I've never
seen aftermarket gauges to fit Ford truck dashes.
If they did can someone tell me what trucks to look for parts in?

Thanx, Kerry

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Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 23:42:03 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: T-shirt contest

The web page for the t-shirt contest will be delayed until
later this week. I had some medical problems and was on
bedrest under doctors orders until this evening.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 00:55:19 EDT
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: T-shirt contest

Ken: Get well soon, this site can't make it without you. Hope for the best,
and hope its nothing serious.

Mike in Seattle
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Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 01:59:43 EDT
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need 72 long bed tailgate

I live in western Illinois. If you can find a good tailgate, maybe it could
be shipped if the price is reasonable. Let me know...
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