i just put a new clutch in my 95 f150 2wd 4.9 and went to test it and after starting it i wouldnt go into any gear but 4th and when going into reverse it grinds (never done this before lol) Upon further testing if i start the truck in any gear it will act normal but after you take it out of that gear it will not go into anything but 4th i looked through the inspection hole on the side and it appears to be working as normal i have looked for leaks and cannot find any is there a possibility there is air in the line still? i have been bleeding the slave cylinder and getting straight fluid out no bubbles that ive seen so far please help lol

 

If you start the truck in say first, second, or reverse, how far do you have to let the clutch pedal up before the truck wants to move?

 

it starts to move about 1/4 way up if i remember correctly ill have to double check in the morning

 

Take a look at the push rod for the master cylinder in the cab, it runs through the clutch safety switch. I have had no end of issues with that dam rod and the symptoms are identical to what your seeing. It might not be properly placed to fully engage the hydraulics.

 

ive taken the master cylinder off from the fire wall and inpected it and pushed it together it seems to be engaging (thats how i bled most of it lol) and ive replaced that plastic bushing on the rod that meets the pedal assembly what other adjustments could i make there?

 

I'm thinking the input shaft on the transmission is hanging up on or in the pilot bearing and keeps turning when you try to shift into gear. Obviously the input shaft wouldn't hang up firmly enough to move the truck. Thus this situation. My theory may be all wet.

Have you tried to actually drive and shift the truck?

Another question would be how much free play does the clutch pedal have? The free play is the amount the clutch pedal pushes down easily before a point where the pedal pushes somewhat harder. The point where the pedal pushes somewhat harder is when the throwout bearing starts pushing on the pressure plate. This would determine if the clutch system is properly bled. Sorry for the free play explanation if you already knew.

 

i have not tried to drive it as of yet due to this issue. as far as free play the clutch starts to engage about halfway down which is a little low to me but ive never dealt with this kind of system (not the best design ford made lol) im going to bleed it some more tomorrow and see if it helps anymore

 

They can be a bitch to bleed........try just gravity bleeding it first.....then top off and bleed normally

 

just as a update i found out the whole assymbly for the clutch and brake pedal was moving about a 1/2 inch and i temporarily put a bungee strap to hold pressure on it and tada im able to put it into gear lol i think its a bushing there anybody have any idea how to remove it or where to get one at???

 

If it's the whole assembly that's moving, that's a cast iron bitch to replace. There are threads on it somewhere in here. It involves removing the dash, steering column, brake booster etc. if it's just the clutch push rod, you can buy a cheap *** replacement bushing for it but it is not a long term fix. I shimmed out the **** that fits into the push rod with a large diameter stainless rivet cap that I swiped from my job. Drilled a hole and put a cotter pin to hold the push rod in place.
I think there are six, or so, attachment points for the whole assembly to the firewall. Look for loose bolts, maybe you can get by with tightening those down. Metal zip ties to hold the push rod in place worked for me until I found he right piece. In my looking in junk yards, I noticed that it's a common problem. Every damn one I found was kludged together worse than mine

 

it is a bit of work to remove that pedal bracket, but you don't have to remove the dash to do it. as stated, it COULD be loose mounting bolts, but not likely.
i don't think they are available from dealers anymore (if NumberDummy comes along he will have the final say on this) but i did get lucky at the junkyard and found a good one. make sure you get the right one if you go that route; the steel ones are not even close to being interchangeable with the aluminum ones.
another option would be to just take it to a machine shop and have them fix yours ... not as outrageous as it may sound considering the miles/time i spent getting a replacement for mine.

 

p.s. ... there are 2 aluminum versions ... i think one of them may be from a previous generation ... i bought that one in error; so be careful about that.

 

would taking the assymbly out and cutting a big washer in half and welding it in place work lol and the clutch master cylinder is not what the issue is its the whole piece that it attaches to lol