Good Afternoon,
I've been TDY with the Army for a little while and haven't been home to work on my 78 F250. Driving the back roads around Fort Rucker Alabama I've done some bumpside spotting. There's one for sale a few hours north and I am looking at you bumpside gurus.
The truck is a 1967 F100 2wd short bed. It had a 302 put in it at some point. It's 3 on the tree. I have only seen pictures which the guy posted. I talked to him on the phone and it isn't close to perfect. It has a rear turn signal issue, the speedometer does not work. It's a 2bbl engine. He put a HEI on it. Has new tires and brakes. It has surface rust on the inner cab corners and inside door. He has it up for $3600.
What should I offer him. The truck needs work but it's way nicer than anything I will find in New England for the price. The pictures are off the craigslist add. Thanks!

 

The floor pans our also known for rusting out from a few places these trucks leak form.

Windshield wiper pivot flange gasket dry rots then leak into the floor pan an rust. The windshield gasket cracks an leaks.

Also the firewall where jointed sealer dries an cracks an with a bad upper hood seal rain/snow water runs down the cowl firewall face an into floor pan.

Drip rail sealer cracks water gets inside freezes open the seal more.

Cab mounts rust out.

Orich

 

Not a bad looker from the outside, but you'll need to check underneath for the condition of the floor pans, front cab mounts, edges of the hood, and along the front drip rail, like orich said. Also be aware that 1967 was a "one only" year. Most everything was changed for only that year. 66 and 68- 72 parts won't work/fit on a 67 model. So parts become even more of a problem, unless you can fab. & weld stuff. Are you training on birds down there in Ala-nipples. I went to my Chemical Advance course at Ft. Mac. Have fun, don't bring anything back-lol-.

 

Aren't the differences mostly confined to the dash, doors and trim?

 

Grilles (painted steel and anodized), ignition switch, instrument cluster back, radio & heater, brake & clutch pedals, bracket under the dash they suspend from, also 1967 only.

1 1/4" wide upper body side mouldings: 1967, 1968 before serial number C56,001.

1 1/2" wide upper body side mouldings: 1968 from serial number C56,001, 1969, 1970/72 Sport Custom.

 

Thanks for the replies. I wanted to ask what to look for but I did a bunch of searching. Thanks for the information
my plan is to bring it back to CT and flip it. But plans change I'm already do not want to sell it if I buy it.
If it's good to go, the guy drives it almost daily still I will but it. I guess I'll start at 2500 and see how much work it needs and take money off from there.
Im down here for warrant officer classes. I went through the whole flight school here in 2011, I'm a national guard 60-M driver. Just tracked TACOPS yay. I love it down here though. I love my part time job with the military though.

 

Buy It! 3k

 

I will post pics and status on Saturday. If I get it I will be driving from Alabama to CT

 

Aww loved the old M~60cal. in Vietnam, was a jeep gunner 3mos. then on the a gun truck.
Orich

 

Go for it!
Thank you for your service.

 

Yes, thanks for your service. It looks like a nice little pickup for the money.

 

First, thank you for your service. Loved flying around in the 60. They were just coming on line when I enlisted. I got to feel the difference between those and the old UH1-D. It was like going from an old 40's flat head 6 to a Ferrari. The power and maneuverability was exponentially greater.

Awesome that you're going to be a WO. You'll always be flying.

I'm from the lovely state of Liberals (Ct.) too so if you ever need a hand just holler.

Keep the bump if it's solid and roll the 78. Bumps are just cooler.

 

2X! On both statements. Notice my sig.


Yes, Check the other rust spots. Once you got your eyeballs on it post here if you have any questions.

 

I appreciate the thanks.
I went to look at the truck. I ended up not buying it. The guy would take $3,000 for it but the truck ended up needing more work than I could justify spending $3000. The guy was real cool though. It needed an inner fender because of battery acid, there were pinholes in a bunch of spots. One floor board was fiberglass the other one was a hack repair. Needed the doors fixed and the roof has a small hole on the side. Tailgate didn't have much life in it and the bed had many rust holes in it.
Knowing how much work I am doing on my 78 when he didn't accept my offer of $2500 then $2700 I had to walk away.
The truck had a lot of sentimental value to him and I couldn't buy his memories. I cant fault him for that. It ran decent, needed clutch adjustment. It had a leaking wheel cylinder and will put you in a ditch it grabs so hard on the front right. Naturally the blinkers didn't work. He went on about how he rebuilt the gearbox and now the speedometer doesn't work. I hated not getting it but the hunt is still on.

Thanks to televison everyone thinks their truck is a $10,000 shop truck. 9 hours in a car just got back to base at 230 Saturday morning. I feel horrible for my buddy who drove me up there. I owe him a multitude of cold ones.
I was hoping to find a *minimally* rusted truck. I should have gone to Arizona

 

And what you could see is probably only 20% of what's really there. Sounds to me like you did the right thing.

It amazes me how much some guys think their trucks are worth. Six or seven grand for a truck so rusty you can see through it or a truck with twenty years of cheap aftermarket parts all over it, dented up and rattle can painted flat black.

Or, if it's in decent shape, they think it's worth 20 grand because NADA or Kelly Blue Book said so.