Ran into another issue on my rebuild. You've guessed it. Rusted out bypass tube. Both that and the screw on port next to it. Question is, is the port pressed in? How do I go about repairing it. Secondly, I'm new to this, so if I have to take the manifold off, is that an easy and inexpensive fix? Where do I go from here?

 

I'm guessing you're referring to a 76 460, but is it the original cast iron manifold or an aftermarket aluminum?

The fitting is pressed in for the aluminum, and I think the cast iron is also. I think the only thing to do is to pull the manifold.

I'd take it to a machine shop to be drilled out and tapped.

The intake is fairly easy to remove and replace on a 460. I've done it several times!

If you've got the original cast iron, it might be a good time to replace it. You can usually find an Edelbrock or Weiand on eBay for under $200. My bypass is in pretty rough shape on the copper truck, and I'll probably install a new manifold rather than mess with the pipe

As far as R&R, you'll need intake gaskets, rtv sealant, perhaps a valley pan, and maybe a carb gasket. Mostly, guys don't use the rubber end seals-just run a bead of RTV

 

Yes, it is a 76 460. The manifold is the original. I was hoping to avoid replacing it but now is a good time. Does this require removing any other parts to remove or is it pretty straight forward? Just the bolts exposed? Thanks for your help.

 

C5AZ-8555-B .. 5/8" O.D. By Pass Tube - 2 1/2" long - cut to fit / Available from every auto parts store.

This little charmer is pressed into the intake manifold. When it rusts out, can be a real b!tch to remove.

1965/67 F100/350 352 / 1968/76 F100/350 360/390 / 1969/74 Econoline 302 / 1973/79 F100/350 460 / 1975/96 E250/350 460 / 1977/79 F100/350 351M/400.

1978/82 Bronco 351M/400 / 1980/82 F150/350 351M/400 / 1983/97 F250/350 460 // Myriad 1965/79 FoMoCo Passenger Cars.

 

The intake manifold is an easy job as not much is connected to it. Someplace, you'll have the vacuum hose for the power brake booster. You'll likely have a vacuum tree, probably in the back. My 77 had one below the carb, in the back. Didn't know it was there's until I pulled the engine out!

Pull all the vacuum hoses, one at a time, and tape & mark the hose and connector. Digital pictures are your best friend. Mark everything-you may think you'll remember where they go, but you won't!

Pull the carb and stuff rags in the manifold holes. All the bolts are accessible and visible from the top. You shouldn't need to remove the distributor, but you might take the top off to give yourself some more room.

Drain the coolant before pulling the manifold. Some will still leak into the valley. Be prepared to change the oil when you're done. The intake is super heavy and awkward. You can pull it yourself, but it's better for your back if you have a strong friend or use a hoist. The manifold may be stuck, and there are bosses on the head to get a little pry bar action against.

While you have the intake off, pull the valve covers and take a look at the valve train-the lifters, rods and rockers.

Might be a good time to change the water pump. If you go that far, change the timing set also. Go with a double roller, set straight up.

And before you start, check the compression. Maybe it's time to rebuild the heads...yeah, I know-it never ends!!!

 

The bypass tube(Aluminium) that came with my Edel intake eroded out and started leaking.Tapped it out and put a brass nipple on it.

 

X a brazillion on that manifold being heavy. Its a pig!! Another thing too on the removal/replacement of the intake. When you reinstall it there is a torque sequence to follow so the gaskets get evenly torqued. IMHO....use the valley pan and the gaskets on the front and back. A nice dallop of RTV in the corners seem to work just fine. Just my .02.....

 

The center four bolts of the manifold are vertical, where the rest are at an angle. I used carb studs in the center four to keep the manifold aligned and centered as I lowered it onto the RTV end seals.

I'm sure the rubber end seals can work fine, but I've always used the RTV instead.

There's also a bit of back-and-forth on using a valley pan. If I were to do it again, I'd probably use a valley pan.

 

Alright fellas, I've unbolted the intake manifold and have tried using pry bars big and small. This sucker will not budge. The whole trucks moves with it. What's the trick here?

 

It will be tough but sounds like you still have a bolt or two keeping it in place. Verify you have all bolts out.

 

You are absolutely correct. I found one hiding behind the distributor. A very large crowbar worked. Simple mistakes. Thanks.

 

That thing was no joke! Heavy!! So, my next question is what is the benefits of going to an aluminum intake? Besides it's way lighter and easier to put in? Secondly, where can I find the beat deal on one?

 

A nice Edelbrock Performer or Weiand Stealth, dual-plane, manifold will make more horsepower at the lower RPMs that our trucks generally run at.

Used-about $200 on eBay. Closer to $300 new

You already have a four barrel, but you might need an adapter for your carb. Early 460s ran a spread-bore 4350. You can get a new manifold for that carb, but...no...

And the aluminum is considerably less heavy...

 

As PapaBearYuma said a good Edlebrock or Weiand dual plane intake is the way to go. I'm running a Edelbrock Performer with a 750 CFM Edelbrock carb. Its a great combination in my opinion and well worth the money. I also recommend checking ebay for a good used one.

 

I'm looking into the new manifolds. I'm not seeing any with the 4 holes in them like the stock one for the carb. How do I know which is the right one? I'm running a Carter afb comp series 4 barrel. All of the ones I find are either a square, or have two holes.