I need to get the bezels off of these things to clean out 50 years of dust. But I'm afraid the tabs that hold them on will break off if I bend them up.
Have any of you successfully removed these things without ruining the bezel. I would hate to ruin working gauges even if they are ugly.

 

Removed the bezel couple days ago and found the tabs fairly malleable, not like the pot metal tabs on the fender emblems. I used a mini screwdriver, sometimes by wedging the spade of the mini screwdriver between the base of the gauge housing and the tab, then lift just enough to insert mini needle nose pliers to lift the tap enough for the bezel to clear the gauge. Found a thin gasket between the gauge and housing, should not be difficult to replicate?

Regret I did not take before pic's, the bezel on mine had some serious pitting. I have a 5/8 hp buffer, couple of compound wheels, 1 very aggressive, the other not so, and a variety of buffing compounds. Appears I may be able to clean the pitted bezel to a suitable condition, I was primarily testing the wheels and compound then decided to take it serious and take my time?

 

Thanks! I feel better about prying on those tabs now. One set of these gauges came out of an unmolested dash panel. They also had a thin paper gasket that was put on then the bezel crimped over it on the back side. You can just make out the remains of it in the picture under those tabs. Two of these are pitted to bad to use like they are now. But there are two chrome shops here in town so I'm going to see what they want to re-chrome them and if it seems to expensive I'll just have them powder coated.

 

I have another pitted bezel intend practicing on, took pic's, kinda surprised the bezel i sampled earlier appears to be cleaning up fairly well; if not, then I will check cost with platter; which is across the street from shop that does powder coating, intend taking 65 steel grille in for quote, telephone call, depending on condition between $100-$150, have not decided whether it would be worth it?

 

If you're talking about putting chrome on that grille for 100 to 150, that's a deal! The powder coat guy here said he would do an aluminum grille for 150.
I used you're method and pried off 2 of the bezels. They came off just fine. I just hope those tabs tolerate being bent back down one more time. If not there is always epoxy.

 

Yes, I thought the price for powder coating steel grille seems reasonable. Not sure about powder coating aluminum grille, platter advised not to chrome aluminum anodized grille unless strictly for show explaining with the soft aluminum, as opposed to steel, road debris tends to magnify any mars or dents? Perhaps reason tend to find the alum anodized grille usually have a dull sheen??

Spent about 20 min's buffing the bezel, polish nicely but still able to detect minor pitting, not sure how much time and effort willing to put into it, imagine depending on quote will determine how much patience?

 

Are any of the gauges repopped? Oil and Alt specifically.

 

I don't think they are reproduced, but on my '65 Custom Cab I replaced my ammeter with a Stewart Warner voltmeter of the same diameter. Using the method mentioned above for removing the bezel, I took the OEM Ford bezel off my ammeter and installed it on the new Stewart Warner voltmeter (after removing the SW bezel). It looks great and was a smooth process, I plan to update my oil pressure gauge to a SW next, with an OEM Ford bezel.

 

Chrome a 65' grille for 100-150 . Really?
That grille has to be media blasted, washed, copper dipped, nickel dipped and polished to remove any imperfection (make it smooth) AND the last step is chrome. AND, depending on the quality of the job you want, it will depend on if it gets 1,2,or 3 dips in the chrome. If you omit any of those steps -good luck with it lasting past 6 months. A year at the most.
I've built enough toys in my life to know chrome and the difference between the quality of the job.
Ask them to explain every step of the job, AND if possible, inspect for your self, the part before it gets it's first dip/coating. That metal MUST be clean and prepped before the first dip.
Remember, that grille and bumper is the show piece of that vehicle.
Sorry but I'm pretty finicky when it comes to doing a job the right way.

 

Seem to recall quoting $100-$150 to have a steel grille 'powder coated'?, if I misspoke then sorry.

 

My mistake

 

TOsborn, do you have a Part Number for the gauge you selected?

 

Deluxe
TOsborn, Is this what you used? These look similar.