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Dual Oil Filter Kit and Oil Cooler 92 F250 460

  #1  
Old 02-22-2017, 11:22 PM
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Dual Oil Filter Kit and Oil Cooler 92 F250 460

I intend to use this truck as my towing rig and just as an over all cruiser (aka my cowboy Cadillac lol) I would like to increase cooling efficiency as much as possible for this truck

I have a dual oil filter kit leftover from my 90 Ford Ranger unused since I couldnt find a place to put it and I noticed my F250 uses the same oil filter as my Ranger did so I would like to install it on my 92 F250 obviously I would have put a quart or 2 more oil but has anyone here put a dual kit on their rig and if so how did it turn out and where did you put it?

Also would an oil cooler make much difference? What brand would you recommend? would I also have to add another quart of oil to make up for the cooler as well?
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 06:57 AM
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I've used a Trans-Dapt on my 5.8 & also on my Fox's 5.0 for years. I think they are great.

There was a lot of casting flash, but I cleaned it up with my Dremel & a grinding stone.

I got NO idea if the actual engine side adapter for the ranger will screw on the 460. But you'll probably have to get one specific to it.

The remote end should be OK & probably uses a pair of FL-1A filters.

I deleted the factory radiator hose/attached oil cooler when I did it on my truck. I know the 460s have leakage issues with theirs, but don't know if you have one.

As far as amounts, just fill the filters before screwing them on, run it, check it.

An additional cooler, who knows? I think the filters off the engine & hanging in the wind increase radiating area & you can always add one later after you put a real oil temp gauge to check.

Hope this helps & good luck.
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 08:04 AM
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My personal opinion: There is no reason whatsoever to run dual oil filters or an oil cooler on these trucks. Unless you are routinely towing a heavy load (over-weight) through the Mojave desert there is very little to gain with these mods.

Save your money for other projects.One of those should be a larger transmission fluid cooler if you have an E4OD. Now there is a worthwhile investment.
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:37 AM
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Well, he does say he A) already has it & B) is going to be towing so there's that.

I went for it because it adds additional oil volume without a deeper pan and a petroleum engineer as well as mechanics instructor once told me "you can never have too much filtering area".

I have over the years been able to tell a decided difference in the cleanliness of my oil vs time using two filters over one. The additional expense is minimal.

Does not mean I discount or do not appreciate Randy's overall opinion out of hand though, please understand.
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 10:27 AM
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We all have opinions, no offense taken David
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:30 PM
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Thanks.

Its hard to just discuss things civilly online sometimes .
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 03:18 PM
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If you have it, use it. Hang the filters down in the air stream and you won't need a cooler.

I've run a Transdapt kit on my '69 F100 for nearly 30 yrs. With an FE, the adapter bolts to the block, unlike your 460 which will take the spin on adapter.




I would guess the adapter would fit your 460 fine. I don't recall what filter fits a Ranger motor, but if it is the same thread as an FL1A, then it will fit.

You can see mine hanging down below the front bumper:




Yes, I've heard everbody make comments about hitting them. I don't off road so in nearly 30 yrs I've never hit anything with them.

Do they keep the oil cooler? Don't have a temp gauge on the oil so can't say. I just put them there as with these old pickups the filter hung horizontal and every oil change you would dump a qt of oil all over everything. I got tired of it and put this system on it. Just add enough oil to get the mark back up on the stick after you start it once.
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 08:46 PM
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Truck already had a factory oil cooler.
 
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:05 AM
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run cooler.
its a heavy truk
bbf run hot due to lean burn and timing.
trans, if auto, can over heat truck.
filtering is fine, but cooling better
you want 195 degree in pan 245 headed out of the engine
your rig should already have a cooler and lines.
use only the stacked plate variety of cooler, and threaded fittings are mandatory

look at ur current filter on the engine. look for two cloth hoses follow them to the cooler in grille

added filters will aid somewhat especially if you have extended oil changes 15k or greater. otherwise your best money is spent on controlling heat. heat breaks molecular structure of oil, wears parts faster due to film thinning etc.
oil's principle responsibility-cooling.

extra filters cost 3x as much at change and add further potential for leaks, broken fittings etc.
double filters? bling.
and an easy way to seperate you from ur cash; filters your wallet if you will. skims money into outfits like amsoil etc.
 
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Old 02-28-2020, 09:01 AM
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Sorry to dig up an old thread, but how long were the hoses you purchased and were they long enough?

Originally Posted by eakermeld








sorry to dig up an old thread, but do you know how long the hoses are that you bought and we're they sufficient? I got my kit and need longer hoses than what came with it.





Truck already had a factory oil cooler.
 
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Old 02-28-2020, 09:14 AM
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Since we all understand that anything here is an opinion based on our experience, it's up the reader to filter out stuff not applicable to him. If we start getting into My Studebaker half ton is better than your Reo truck, things get difficult. I like grey, you like something bright. So, by the thinking of some you guys whose color is RIGHT? I've used a dual remote filter kit, purchased from Amzoil in i991 on my 89 460 5 spd. High usage farm truck, usually pulling a loaded gooseneck, right to capacity. With Banks exhaust header system, some re work under the hood to keep temps down, and nothing but synthetic oils and grease since 1991. The xtra oil, filtering with there super fine filter (you seldom change) my engine and trans now have over 560,000 miles and NEVER been apart I pulled the engine around 250,000 to some work on the chassis and wanted to change the timing chain for a more appropriate roller chain, and pull the pan for a rear seal and possibly bearings. I found zero wear on the rod bears, all 16 shells flawless. Very happy, extra oil, extra filtering etc. There is no reason for compromise in my world with lubrication. I build competition engines, and have for over 30 years for the Porsche chassis, 3 to 4 gal dry sump is the norm. On my 89, the remote filter assembly is on the inside of the right front frame horn, a nice spot for it there. My 2 bits. Larry
 
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