Hey everyone!

So I was driving my f250 the other day and I was shifting into second and a ring hit my leg. The clutch slammed to the floor and wont shift. It's either all the way down or all the way up.

Has anybody had this problem and what should I do to fix it? Any price estimates?

Thanks again!

 

Look at the right end of the pedal cluster for the pushrod that goes to the clutch master cylinder. Sounds to me that the ring broke off the end of the pushrod.
You may be able to get a new pushrod, not sure if they are sold separately, but they are a pain to remove from the end of the master cylinder. If the end of the pushrod is still in decent shape, you may be able to do the heim joint mod.

 

^^ What he said!

I'd replace the whole clutch master cylinder before just the rod itself.

God knows 2 weeks later the master will go bad and you'll be right back here again.

A big X2 on the Heim joint mod. You'll never have silly mickey mouse clutching problems again.

 

I had a hell of a time trying to remove a pushrod from a master cylinder on the work bench, I would venture to say it would be next to impossible to do in the truck without breaking something!

 

Actually, if the eyelet broke off the end of the pushrod and there's enough length of pushrod left, that's a perfect opportunity to do the Heim joint mod.

If it's not, indeed removing the pushrod is tricky. There's a clip way in there that has to be released. If you opt to replace the master, you'd really be best of getting a complete master-line-slave pre-bled kit. Waaaay easier to swap, and the master is just as old/worn as the slave at this point.

Question - was the ring that fell made of plastic or steel?

 

I don't know why you guys have issues removing the clutch rod,
its like a newer fuel line connection (like on my powerstroke)
3 prongs hold the rod in.


I use a piece of 5/16 steel fuel line about a inch and a half long with a slit cut in the length.
slip it over the master cylinder rod and push it in.
the rod comes right out.
to reinstall simply push it back in.


guess ive done enough of them.





the heim joint mod is one of the best things you can do to the clutch mech.
years of trouble free service for 10 bucks.


but you also need to remove the pedal assembly to press the end off the clutch lever.


took me an hour to do in my 87 some odd years ago.

 

Dayum, that probably means I could use one of those fuel line release tools. Gotta remember to try that sometime....

There's also the cheap/easy version (even cheaper) - bit of 1/2"ODx7/16"ID brass tubing for a bushing, then a 7/16" drill stop collar on the end of the lever to hold it in place.


No you don't. LOOSEN the nut, then pry on either side of the lever with TWO small pry bars / screwdrivers. Work it loose from two sides, until it's free from the splines (you keep the nut on to keep it from flying when it finally works loose). Remove the nut the rest of the way and slip off. Takes maybe 5 minutes. 'Course, while you're on this case and if you haven't done them, the bushings inside the pedal box on the cross-rod are quite possibly shot, so this would be a good time to remove the pedal assembly to replace those bushings as well.

 

I would much rather drop the column, the 4 bolts for the vacuum/hydro booster and the 2 10 mil's on the top rather than messing with those splines.lol
but that's just me, and with air tools, youre not tyryin to mess with it at the crazy carmensutra positions you gotta put yourself in lol

 

Thanks for the replies everybody!

Is this a fix I can do by myself?

 

Only you can answer that question....

If you're handy, yes of course.

If you're anything like my brother..... His car shows up at my place with a few beers and/or food and I deal with it, that includes the easy stuff like oil changes.

 

sadly this don't work. its too thick, and not long enough.
but with a piece of steel fuel line, and 2 pairs of pliers,
its off in seconds.

 

LOL

LOL!!!

I also pressed it out from under the dash. It's been too long to remember my technique... but it was maybe something like your picture lol. All I did was replace the pin with a thicker bolt etc like madpogue mentioned. I'm ready to do the heim joint though cause my fix has too much play after the years.

Did you make your own push rod in the picture or can you buy that?

 

I used 1/2 of a new push rod.
then I bored a hole in a 3/8-24 bolt, inserted the rod and welded it.
complete adjustment, and have had not 1 issue in 1500 miles

 

That's great! Thanks sir

 

Just want to note that you probably can't use the clutch interlock switch anymore with the shaft being thicker.
Not a huge issue with the people smart enough to always step on the clutch before starting, but it will also affect cruise control operation.