Okay, on to the 3rd and final major upgrade. I previously did an a/c project, a front disc upgrade and now I am going to undertake a power steering upgrade.

I have a 1967 F100 Ford Flareside with a 300 engine. The tranny is a 3 on the tree set up.

With that said, I located a Bendix box from a 1969 F250 (pictured). I don't know if the box was original to the truck. The box seems like it is in good condition. It has some remanufactured stickers on it. As such, it appears that it was rebuilt at some point.

I have an assortment of of power steering brackets (early 80's F150 and a Saginaw Econoline bracket). I have not yet determined which way to go. Given my Frankenstein a/c set up, the Econoline bracket may be a better match.

Any tips on how to tell whether I need to rebuild the box? Also, this is a direct bolt on project, correct? My understanding is that the one needs to modify the Saginaw box.

As I embark on this project, I want to thank all of you in advance for your guidance and patience for putting up with my lack of mechanical skills.

Thanks again!

Sam

 

That's a Bendix box which is known to have leakage issues. Good luck.

 

I've heard that. I'll deal with the potential leakage. I just don't want to have to deal with cutting my column.

 

My 69 F250 also has a Bendix (original) box, so it's possible yours is too.

 

I have a 69 f-250 and it has the Bendix box but isn't leaking yet. I scored a Ford box with steering column out of a 69 F-350 for next to nothing if my Bendix box starts spewing.

 

Sam, With the exception of pump to engine mount bracket you need to stay between 65-79 in year range, As the 240/300 stayed the same passed 79 you can use a newer year donor.

The total lengths from the horn button to the vert shaft in the gear are the same for both sets. The Saginaw setup moves the connect point about 2 1/3 in closer to the firewall. I swapped gear and column from a 76 into my 66. Bring them together and there is no cutting. Of course shift is an issue so the columns need to be correct there also. I also went from 3 spd to C6 auto with my upgrade.

Stay with in those parameters and you should be OK with no cutting.


John

 

Bendix P/S (lower pic): 1966/68 F100/250 2WD; 1969 F100/250 2WD before serial number D96,001.

 

I like my column and steering wheel. Notwithstanding the inherent flaws of the Bendix box (potential leaks), using the Bendix box provides a more factory look and a fairly easy upgrade, correct?

 

One other thing, any way to tell if I have a good steering box without having to tear it apart before installing it? As I stated in an earlier post, it had some reman stickers on it. I just don't know when it was remanufactured.

 

Do it right the first time. Don't trust that POJ, and ship it to Redhead Steering to get rebuilt the proper way. You will be money ahead to begin with.

 

If you are made of money. What would it hurt to install it and run it. It takes 20 minutes to swap it out later if there is a problem and it may well work good for years.

Put a good cooler on it.

 

Redhead is close to $600 to rebuild one and that probably doesn't include shipping both ways.


Yeah, I am going to find a way to give mine a try and if it doesn't work, I'll try to find a reputable place close by to rebuild my unit.

 

I am not made of money. I actually have a cooler from a 1970 t-bird 429 set which I may be able to use. I am going to see if I can use it some how.


Anyone have a diagram of how I may be able to connect the cooler and/or photos of how they performed the swap? Bendix from manual using an power steering oil coolerl?

 

You could bench test the system by spinning the pump with a drill or screw gun. You'll need more than just your own hands to spin up the pump and turn the PS box to see if it works. I always thought the PS cooler was part of one of the hoses. The only problem with bench testing the PS pump is it's not a real world test. In the real world the pump is supplying pressure all the time the engine is running.

Good luck and keep us posted

 

Just put the cooler where you want it and plumb it into the return line. It's not high pressure and regular 3/8 fuel line and hose clamps should work fine. I have a couple nice ones I saved from 90s pickups. They are very well made and mounted in front of the radiator, or kinda below.