79 F350 460 C6 4x2 Factory Cruise Control

After donating its' Holley to the copper truck, the yellow truck wanted a new carburetor, and talked me into an Edelbrock 1411-4 barrel, 750cfm, electric choke, vacuum secondaries

I also bought the Ford linkage kit, Ford kickdown kit, ball, return spring kit and kickdown extension kit.

Picked-up the shipping box at the UPS store today, and the box was all jacked up

Got it home, and checked-it all out real good, and the contents looked okay

Installed the Ford linkage on the carb. It was missing the nut for the top bolt, but I found one in the toolbox. Installed the throttle stud. Installed the plug in the rear vacuum port

Went to test-fit the carb on the Edelbrock Performer 460 intake manifold, and it wouldn't go on. The carb base hung up on the passenger rear stud. I coaxed the carb onto the studs about 1/8" but it was clear that is just was not going to fit. I checked the other carb studs I've got laying around, and they're the same diameter. It might fit if the upper portion of the studs were a smaller diameter. Is this an Edelbrock thing? Am I being punished for not buying their studs?

Anyway, looking at the linkage, my 79 has the throttle cable and factory cruise. The Ford linkage on this carb sticks out so far that it puts an extreme angle on the cable pull. It also looks like it might interfere with the cruise. The ball installs to the outside of the linkage adapter. If it were reversed, and installed to the inside, it might have a less severe angle. Would that work?

I know there's plenty of y'all out there running Edelbrock carbs. How'd they go in for you.?

 

Mine came with the edlebrock carb and intake when I purchased the truck. I will take some photos tomorrow of the linkage and everything when its daylight. You might get some help from the photos.

 

I recently put an edelbrock 1406 on my 460. I was confused about all the different adaptor kits recommended by edelbrock so I called them. There is an adaptor plate (part #1485 or 1495) that moves the cable mount to get the proper alignment. If you have the rod linkage you don't need it.

My 76 has the rod linkage so all I needed was the throttle adaptor kit. I will make my one kick down extention if I can find the dimensions. I need to modify my cruise control diaphragm mounts though. The angle of the throttle has it hitting through cruise diaphragm. I'll cut the welds on the bracket and slide the yoke over about an inch and reweld it.

 

Following this thread to see what happens.

I've been warned a few times by others on here that the Edelbrock 1406 doesn't just "drop and run" on our motors.

Lots of extra little linkages and bits/pieces to make it work.

Post up some pics!!!

 

So here is my setup if it helps any

 

Thanks guys! The pictures really help.

Don't understand why the Edelbrock linkage has to stand so far out to put that extreme angle on the throttle rod, but it is what it is.

I may just stick this carb on the copper truck instead, as that truck doesn't have the cruise control to get in the way.

 

Well I just got off work. The photos above are almost identical to mine with the exception of the down shift lever. I had to use an adapter. Mine has a rod linkage similar to that but has been bent and rebent several times it looks like. Its all tight at works well. I don't know what the previous owners had done over the years.

 

Yesterday, I mounted the Fork linkage kit to the throttle assembly, and installed the ball stud onto the linkage.

several issues kept me from putting the edelbrock on the yellow truck:
1) wouldn't fit over studs
2) put an extreme angle on the throttle cable
3) linkage blocked by the cruise control

i didnt really want to put the new carb on the copper truck due to still having the factory manifold, but there were good reasons for doing so:
1) fit over the studs
2) throttle rod more accommodating of the angle
3) no cruise control

the edelbrock base must be thicker than the Holley, as the studs seemed a bit short. I had longer studs in the toolbox, so I changed them out. The carb mounted on the manifold just fine. Several minor tweaks:
1) needed to run 3/8" fuel line (5/16 previously)
2) had to adjust idle speed
3) needed to dig out a t-15 torx bit to hook up the ground to the choke housing

the flat bar under the front left nut is kind of Mickey Mouse but effectively mounts the kick-down return spring

also, the air cleaner stud was way too short for the air cleaner. Had to use the old stud, which was longer, and a shorter air cleaner

turned the key to fill the bowl, and after a quick crank, it fired immediately. Adjusted the curb idle and went for a drive. Runs great and no more hesitation coming off idle

the pressure gauge says the pressure is a bit high, so tomorrow I'll move the regulator from the yellow truck

thanks, guys for all your help. Internet is down due to the wind, so I'll try to get pictures tomorrow

 

Aaron-71, your right, the 1406's are not a direct drop on unless you have a true square bore manifold. The secondaries are too close and hit on the center divider. You need to use a spacer. I actually have two under my carb, the original and a spread bore adaptor. i'll try to get some pics later

 

Well, I learned the 77 460 had a spread-bore pattern for MotorCraft 4350 carbs. They are also EGR. The primaries are regular size, and the secondaries are huge. Similar to a QuadraJet design, but different.

At some time in the past, the 4350 was replaced by a Holley 0-80452. As I understand, this was a Ford factory fix. The truck ran strong on that carb, but it was never quite right.

I guess having the carb off the engine for several weeks while I did the bearings was hard on the gaskets and accelerator pump diaphragm, cuz when I put it back together, it leaked like a sieve. I followed that up with a rebuild, but it still wasn't right. The Edelbrock is a huge improvement, and it runs great-right out of the box.

Today, I set-up the electric choke. A while back, I had run three "trigger" wires off the ignition-switched hot plug behind the dash. Today, i installed a relay, ran a hot lead from the auxiliary fuse box, and ran the lead to the choke. Now, both the electric fuel pump and the choke are fed by ignition activated relays

The rod that came with the carb was too short for my air cleaner, so I picked up a threaded rod at Lowe's. For about a buck. Far less expensive than a carb center rod from the auto part store.

Transferred in the fuel pressure regulator from the yellow truck, and have a nice and steady 5 psi to the Edelbrock. New 3/8" line and fuel filter finished the project off. Starts super easy and runs great. Rained all day today, but tomorrow i hope to replace the valve cover gasket, pcv valve and change the oil. Unless anything else happens, this carb project is done!

 

Great info Papabear!

Why are you running a fuel regulator? Do you have an electric fuel pump that provides more fuel than the carb needs?

I've never heard of having to use a regulatory with a mechanical fuel pump and it's something I would have never thought of when I go to do my Edelbrock 1406 swap.

You fellas also made some good points about the size of the secondaries and how they might hit the intake... I should really check my Offenhauser to make sure everything clears and I don't need to order a spacer.

 

Eddys are very sensitive to fuel pressure. So by adding a regulator you can control any PSI issues. Eddys max out at 6 psi, 5 psi is safe.

 

Good grief...

So are you guys running a regulator in-line between the mechanical fuel pump and the carb?

Eddy's seem like a great carb, but all of these little nuances really add up the $$$.

 

All three of the trucks were extremely hard to start with the mechanical fuel pumps, so they all got electric fuel pumps back by the rear axle. The mechanical pumps were pulled out. Some people suggest using the electric to pump fuel into the mechanical, but others warn against that in case the diaphragm ruptures and you fill the block with fuel.

The yellow truck has a Carter rotary vane, and the others have Airtex solenoid style. The Airtex are pretty loud, but you definitely know when you're getting power to the pump. They are pretty good about putting out around 7 psi - ok for a Holley, but too high for an Edelbrock.

I put a Summit fuel pressure regulator in the copper truck, and brought the pressure down to about 5. Works great.

 

Interesting.

I'll have to look into an electronic fuel pump for my Edelbrock swap.

Are there any fuel pumps that come with some kind of internal regulator to begin with? Seems like something that would be possible, eliminating the need to install 2 different things for 1 purpose.

I don't know much about electronic fuel pumps though, so it's just a thought.