old subject not really popular anymore, but im converting my 88 dually 4x gasser from vacuum to hydroboost.
this rig is a monster, it was originally a canadian oil field truck cab chassis. So 34" rear frame rails.
i sourced a 2006 GM 1150 rear axle to gain the right :

frame spacing for leaf spring perches; bolt in
Disc brakes
e brake in hub
and 8x6.5 lug spacing, got dinged on the lugs being meteric 14mm so i have to be careful not to mix up the nuts- front to rear.

anyway converting to hydroboost to get more juice to the rear brakes.many forums report having to adapt a saginaw pump to make this system work.

I may have found a much better and simpler way . so far its working out dreamily. but have not tested it yet.
im using a vickers sorry a parker hydraulic pump gerotor style with -6 an fittings, -6 at the hydroboost,.
-6 at the steering box, and a cooler in grille and a one quart remote tank mounted under the hydroboost unit

this is introduction any comments or experience with this are welcome. the little aluminum pump fits the ford bracket groovy. only one hole to bore in the bracket. offsets are beautiful. using fords pulley, 6 rib, with a bushing from a chev starter motor to take up the the difference between the 5/8 pulley and the 9/16 pump shaft.

so far so good.

quiet, loads of pressure, excess system capacity and no adapter problems so far.

 

Got any pics? What are you doing for pressure relief and flow rate control?

 

never learned to post pics but this thread might be worth taking the time to learn. if it turns out this idea actually works.

as to your other questions
the relief is internal, rated at 1500 psi approx i think i can manipulate that some.
the flow rate is an unknown. being a gerotor design its going to give good pressue right away. pump is rated at 3.3 gpm max 5k rpm, have not done the math yet on pulley size. currently using a mustang 6 rib pulley. we will see i guess.


i expect the tank to be lower than the pump and the pump lower than the hydroboost. i do have a concern about drainback.
using standard plumbing -6 an fittings, inline cooler and filter.
i actually thought about using the filter as the resevoir, was cautioned against it,dunno why, using a deep spin-on filter with remote mount and check valve would solve drain back issues and aeration issues.

fluid likely hygard or mopar plus 4

thx for ur interest

 

Really interested if you could get some pics, I though about using a two stage pump but I'm not sure if we need more flow rate at low speeds or more pressure. Where did you get your fittings to convert from male o-ring on the hydro to an6?

 

hope that bushing stays on!
im in the planning stages of this too on a custom project.
but I will be building my own bracketry with v belts.
pics would be awesome!

 

long post cause i got no photos.



For the hydroboost unit, at least my year, the thread pitch is 5/8 -18 and 11/16-16.
the 5/8 is common, 11/16 is not. u should only need the 11/16 (of course)
both are bump tube fittings.
here are some russell numbers: 648040 is 11/16, and 648030 is 5/8's. these are if you want AN fittings at the hydroboost unit.

what im going to do is use the ford pressure hoses due to their form fitted metal lines.
these will lay down nicely against the hydroboost unit.
I will then use the ford hose, cut one end off, and re crimp a -6 female to the hose.
this, i attach to the back of the pump.
If this ends up being too short, i can add more line with coupler (ugly), or cut off at metal formed line near hydroboost and attach my hose there.

If you use Parker MGG20030 pump it should mimic the performance of the ford spec hydroboost with 1500 psi and 3.3 gpm. 5000 rpm max.
there are side outlet and back out let pumps. i got the pump with both outlets on the back of the pump.

get one with the SAE 2 bolt flange, (SAE 4 bolt flanges are better but may be too small to bolt to our ford serpentine brackets, meaning the hole is too large in the bracket).

remove flange and sandwich your pump bracket then reattach the flange.
weight ; about 3 pounds. no heavy weight on aluminum bracket, and no modifications to the bracket (grinding, cutting).

in this way your flange is on the front side of the bracket, pump on the back.
a 6 rib pulley with a chevrolet starter bushing because the pump is 9/16 shaft and the pulley is 5/8 i.d.
bore some holes in pulley snout, add set screws,, i used three, and shim the pump out to match factory offset and thats that.

use one existing hole in bracket to attach.
bore the second hole in appropriate place on the bracket-done.
use 3/8 carriage bolts , head under the pulley, nut on back of bracket. avoid stainless.

reservoir
i am going to use a peterbilt reservoir (10 $ wrecking yard) attached next to radiator, on core support, drivers side just above the steering box. filter inside the reservoir.
because this is a gerotor style pump, if i load the pressure hose b4 start up, i do not need gravity feed to pump. and my reservoir can be below my pump.

this tank may be enough capacity that i do not need cooling, but if i do, then a small stacked plate cooler just the other side of the core support b4 reservoir will be sufficient. using AN fittings, and hose clamps, likely oitiker clamps for clean install. its low pressure side


Drainback

i plan on the steering box being my one-way valve. the reservoir is a non vented tank, so if there is drain back it wont escape but will be held by the steering box thus my pump, being below the hydroboost, is charged at all times. i hope.


unknowns:

performance obviously,
pressure at idle
total flow
math out the pulley size. and make sure im not overspeeding the pump.

vibration (not a huge concern) but is the 2 bolt flange enough to hold pump under pressure at full speed. say steering lock and brakes applied?
will i need to make changes here and will i find this out somewhere outback of beyond late on a sunday?


side load on pump shaft: parker calls for 30 pounds

this i can accomplish with a slightly longer serp. belt and lighter touch on my tensioner pulley.



Gerotor style pump

quiet
good low pressure pump.
simple construction. not many moving parts
common
universal fittings.

aluminum , light , heat dissipating
suction feed

wish i could give you photos.but im not done with this yet
i could text some from a phone.

hope this helps

 

i through bolted the bushing with my set screws, if that bushing goes, then i have got other troubles. On pulley snout i bore three holes and have set screws through the pulley through the bushing and one is set into the keyway. the other two are friction hold on pump shaft.


i wish i had fotos too. im not a visual thinker and fotos are an afterthought. and i need to learn the upload procedure.

Also i have this habit of building a machine from the ground up, tinkering as i go. so when i finally start her , all of these clever ideas i incorporated fail at once or some will work, some wont. but it makes for exciting times at start up.and im very busy for the first month fixing my f-ups. cause i put so many ideas together at once.
on this rig i have not started her in 3 years. and the engine has to come out cause i forgot to resize rods....sigh, but i want a different cam now anyway. i may be a long time b4 i know for sure if this works or not.

V belts are a smart choice. offering many more pulley options;with 2 cautions
one: line up is crucial.
two: run out of space to put pulleys

 

THANKS FOR THOSE PART NUMBERS!!!
super helpfull


as long as you have a photo on your computer, its super easy.
I usually upload my pics on social media via cell phone,
then save them to my desktop.
once you have them saved you click that little yellow mountain looking icon
then you can drag and drop.


that's exactly the reason I decided to run v belts, I can get any pulley I want from my industrial suppliers.


I plan on solid mounting the GM 1 wire alternator, and the PS pump.
since I have hydroboost and will be using a Mohave heater, I don't need the AC nor the vacuum pump.
I will be adding in 2 tensioners. I plan on putting this rig through the ringer, and need to have this thing completely dialed before I take it to the rubicon.


heres a couple pics of my current build, and my 87

 

A part number i forgot to give
its eaton 1444 adapter for the 11/16 side
its nearly unobtainium but the number is still live
its actually called a ford power steering adapter in napa books.

them are some nice rigs
falcons are the cooolest of the cool.
but wow that will be the toy.

my problem to date with photos is the movement from phone to computer. android does not talk to mac and the software is wonky.
but mostly i forget to take photos but will do today. i will get started on that.

edit: i had a vickers on a 300 six. v belt drive powering an unrelated winch.it worked ok, but i always suspected the bracketry of being too flimsy. and that pump was cast iron; heavy as hell

 

ook the final best solution for the fitting a pressure hose on the hydroboost-to-pump is as follows. buy the factory ps pressure hose
cut it off of the metal formed line on the boost end. discard the rubber part. put a tube lock crimp coupler onto the metal line. tighten firmly.
attach to boost unit. measure to pump, cut hose , crimp and your done.

 

I ended up ordering a KRC powersteering kit.
mini PS pump with a v-belt, remote reservoir
and a bracket that I will have to remake.
the PS unit comes with -10AN and -6AN inlet and outlet.
KRC POWER STEERING PUMP,REMOTE TANK,& FORD BRACKET,260,289,& 302,V-BELT PULLEY | eBay
ordered a few of those russel fittings for the gear box and the hydro.
one issue, that I need to resolve(of many) is that my hydro return has a
banjo fitting for the return, im hoping a normal hose barb can be threaded in.
I have not really looked into it yet.
I also need a cooler, but my rig is incomplete right now.
so this will wait.
ill be having some steel braided pressure lines made up when the time comes.

 

sweet little set up.
never seen a banjo b4.
did you buy a ford hydroboost unit? and what year?

 

the HB is actually off a 2001 DI 7.3 powered 30 passenger buss.
it was free with master.
im royting my brake hydraulics through a will wood prop valve
so the fact that im still on rear disc can be adjusted.
plan on converting to rear disc when funds are available.

 

ok i have the hydroboost swapped over to AN's
the return line on the gear box converted to AN
but i cant seem to find a fitting for the pressure port on the gear box.


what did you use?


my powersteering set up should be in today, and i can finally start mock up.