Missing pushrod update 2/28
#1
Missing pushrod update 2/28
Look what I noticed tonight.
A pushrod from #7 is not in place. I don't know why I didn't see it before.... too busy taking things off, cleaning things and painting things. No wonder this cylinder only had 25 lbs of compression! Here in this pic you can see the top of the pushrod.
Is this an exhaust or intake valve?
What caused this? I know I won't be able to see any damage until I get the head off, but what damage could there be?
If the pushrod is damaged would I have to buy a whole set or just one?
A pushrod from #7 is not in place. I don't know why I didn't see it before.... too busy taking things off, cleaning things and painting things. No wonder this cylinder only had 25 lbs of compression! Here in this pic you can see the top of the pushrod.
Is this an exhaust or intake valve?
What caused this? I know I won't be able to see any damage until I get the head off, but what damage could there be?
If the pushrod is damaged would I have to buy a whole set or just one?
#2
Manufacturing defect. Extreme stress from a faulty spring(over long period of time), stuck valve, excessive RPM, lots of miles.......
......pick a reason.
Possibly a damaged lifter, cam(probably not cam). If the spring or valve is partly to blame for the failure then you could have more there.
Depends on where you get it. Used solid pushrods like that are generally durable and could be reused: try finding someone with a good strait unit to dispose of, shipping would be cheap.
......pick a reason.
Possibly a damaged lifter, cam(probably not cam). If the spring or valve is partly to blame for the failure then you could have more there.
Depends on where you get it. Used solid pushrods like that are generally durable and could be reused: try finding someone with a good strait unit to dispose of, shipping would be cheap.
#3
Grab that pushrod with needle nose pliers and try pulling it out. It may just lift out unless it is bent too badly. Reason, who knows as expressed above. Damage, perhaps none. If the cam follower failed you have a big job ahead of you. At this point it makes no difference which valve it is. I think most used E II EE II E but some obscure Y blocks used different.
Edit: If you can't get pliers on it, try a loop of thin wire.
Edit: If you can't get pliers on it, try a loop of thin wire.
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#8
There is one of the potential problems. The later Y blocks had captured lifters, meaning the cam rub surface was larger than the hole in the block in which the lifter fit. This mandated the removal of the cam to replace the lifter, not an easy job with the engine in place. I suspect the earlier Y blocks like Abe's are the same.
#9
All y blocks have "mushroom " style lifters meaning the rub surface is larger than the the lifer bore and must be removed from the bottom side with the cam removed. I'd bet on a sticking valve. Also that's an intake valve
just noticed everything I just posted has already been mentioned. My bad
just noticed everything I just posted has already been mentioned. My bad
#10
There is one of the potential problems. The later Y blocks had captured lifters, meaning the cam rub surface was larger than the hole in the block in which the lifter fit. This mandated the removal of the cam to replace the lifter, not an easy job with the engine in place. I suspect the earlier Y blocks like Abe's are the same.
Abe - mushrooms can't be good for the engine - you are suppose to eat them.
#11
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I have no idea on these old engines so how can you tell if the lifter is damaged? Do you have to pull the cam? If you go that far wouldn't it be a good idea to redo all the bearings even if the lifter is OK? Again I have no idea on cost or amount of work involved. A good old 289 seems like a great idea and I know they are a lot easier to work on.
Abe - mushrooms can't be good for the engine - you are suppose to eat them.
Abe - mushrooms can't be good for the engine - you are suppose to eat them.
#14
#15
I just got out of the shower after coming in the garage. Wow! Thanks for all the responses and help.
I got the lifter out with a magnet. It came right out. To my eye it does not look bent at all. My Bil says it could have happened because of a backfire.
Anyways, I got the rocker arms off and called a buddy to help me lift off the heads. I don't know how one guy could do it himself. They are heavy and you are leaning over the fender and the fender adjustment for is in the way. So I am thinking it might be a stuck valve.
My BIL is coming g tomorrow morning to put on the new heads and adjust the valves. I don't think he'll stick around long enough to put everything back together so we can start the truck so I'll have to do that myself.
The push rods are solid.
I will post pics of what I've done tonight. Thanks all!
I got the lifter out with a magnet. It came right out. To my eye it does not look bent at all. My Bil says it could have happened because of a backfire.
Anyways, I got the rocker arms off and called a buddy to help me lift off the heads. I don't know how one guy could do it himself. They are heavy and you are leaning over the fender and the fender adjustment for is in the way. So I am thinking it might be a stuck valve.
My BIL is coming g tomorrow morning to put on the new heads and adjust the valves. I don't think he'll stick around long enough to put everything back together so we can start the truck so I'll have to do that myself.
The push rods are solid.
I will post pics of what I've done tonight. Thanks all!