Hello. I am new to diesels so please bare with me.

I just bought a 2000 f350 7.3 6 speed with 175k miles. It has a few mods such as a 5 inch lift, 5 inch turbo back exhaust, TS Performance 6 Position Chip and a few other things.

The guy I bought it from had gotten a new truck, changed the fluids on this one, and let it sit for about two months (he started it once a week). He drove it to work the day we were suppose to meet up and the SES light came on. It threw codes:
P0541-Intake air heater control low
P0107-MAP/Barometer
P0475-Exhaust pressure control valve

My questions are 1) is there any problem with me driving with these codes? I have been driving the past few days and the truck runs amazing, starts perfectly in the cold, pulls hard and holds boost. Nothing at all feels wrong!!! I need the truck for work and there are no signs that the truck is running bad in any way.

2) So I know that the PCM controls the EBPV and I also know that the barometer is inside the PCM. I am wondering if the PCM might need to be replaced to fix those two codes? I want know pretty certainly though before I go buy the PCM as it is not cheap.

3) Which do you think I should try to attack first? Which is the most important and how critical really is it?

I really appreciate all of your help, knowledge, and advice!

 

I would clear the codes and run it some more, see what comes back for starters. After sitting, things may have gummed up some, now that you have run it more often, got it hot, etc, those codes may not come back if you clear them.

 

I appreciate that advice. Thats what I am hoping. Upon driving it more it seems to provide more power and just generally run better with the chip plugged in (even though its supposedly on the "stock" setting). And my gas mileage has been awful either way. I have used $40 worth of gas in the past 4 days. Im not driving an excessive amount or hauling anything. I do not know what steps to take next.

 

Pull your negative cables overnight.

That will reset everything but shouldn't drop hard codes.

Replace the Negs and see how your looking. Drop your TS switch to stock position and don't move it until your done driving a few reps with fresh fuel in her.

Denny

 

I will do that tonight and see how it goes. Without the chip plugged in the truck is slow and sluggish until 2500rpms. With the chip plugged in on the supposed "stock" setting it pulls harder and runs better. I figuring no harm no foul if its driving nicely but now I feel like I am getting awful MPG; even while babying her.

 

What MPG are you getting?

Stewart

 

Please take a picture of the left hand side of the aluminum intake (spider), thing in front of the turbo on your engine that has boots on it.
Also, take a picture of the left hand side base of the pedestal (thing the turbo sits on/bolts to).

Please post both photos so we can see if the AIH & EPCV have been deleted.

Here is a thread about diagnostic solutions via hardware and software. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html ForScan
Free for laptop and less than $5 for Android.

ForScan is the BOMB and is the least expensive route a fellow could choose. You and we will need the information ForScan provides in order to assist you in the future instead of throwing money at parts while conducting a guessing game.

Get yourself the appropriate adapter for a laptop and your android or apple device.

Don't waste your money on AE. Torque is time consuming if nothing has changed.

 

I am testing it now. My overhead MPG gauge doesnt work. I should know by tomorrow afternoon.

 

I believe that EBPV and EPCV have NOT been deleted. I will take pictures tomorrow during the day and post them on here. Also where do you get the cord that goes from your laptop to the connector? Does napa or advanced auto have it?

 

I pulled my negatives overnight. When I started my truck in the morning the SES light was still on. Didnt seem like anything had changed. Oh and btw it seems like it takes my truck a long time to warm up. I let it warm up for 10 mins before driving and it still isnt up to full operating temp until i drive it for 5+ minutes.

 

On my 2002 the P0475-Exhaust pressure control valve DTC was as the result of a rodent chewed wire. I repaired the wire and all is good. My jet engine sound is back.
Ed

 

In the winter these Pigs won't warm up fast EVER. Too Much Iron, Oil, and coolant to get moving. Hell, they don't warm up in the middle of Summer for that matter. 10 Minutes is normal.


That's what the EBPV is for...

 

First... coax9952 is right. There's 4 gallons of oil, 8 gallons of coolant, and 1000 pounds of iron... and you think those inky dinky bursts of fire are going to warm all that up in a few minutes in the driveway? The EBPV with an elevated idle helps a lot, but that is just a lot of stuff to bring to 190 degrees F. 10 minutes in the driveway and 5 minutes on the road doesn't get it done either - the gauge is misleading. I've seen the dash temp gauge read full heat when I still have 50 degrees F to climb to reach full engine oil temp.

10 minutes in the driveway uses a lot of fuel, so I just crank up and drive. I'm not saying hop on a freeway onramp or get into a tractor pull with a cold engine, but my first 10 minutes of driving involves some nice warm-up exercises as long as I go easy on the throttle.

As for the truck being gutless until 2500 RPM on a stock tune, you wouldn't likely know that unless you were pressing pretty deep on the right pedal for the lower RPMs. As for the "stock" tune on the chip, it sure doesn't sound all that stock-ish. As for the codes - with or without the chip? When in doubt, de-chip and troubleshoot.

I am moderately modified, and my truck is "gutless" because of the stock-ish tuning down low and my practice of going easy on the throttle... until my foot gets an attitude and there goes the economy.

 

Alright I will definitely not let it warm up for as long. And I want to get the SES issues fixed but right now between work and school its hard to find a chance to do anything let alone take the turbo off and replace the pedestal (EBPV delete). Everything seems more than fine driving. In your opinion is driving with THESE codes really a problem until I have a chance to fix them?

 

I deleted my Intake Air Heater, so I live with that code. The thing doesn't even turn on anyway, except under very specific scenarios - like planet alignment and turning your head to the right while coughing.

MAP, BARO, and EBP codes? Man... that sounds like a tune is messing with the readings in an effort to "trick" the performance out hiding. Good tuners know how to take the readings they get from the powertrain and adapt the fuel commands to augment the performance in a sensible way. "Hacks" just make sensors lie here and there to get the tune to bend to their will - a little. That latter approach can throw false codes. When in doubt, remove the chip and any programmed tuning - then troubleshoot the powertrain, not the tune/chip/connection to the PCM.

Since you are new to the diesel world, like I was when I first bought this truck - I have something for you. I suffered losses in blood, treasure, and time to learn what I share in the "custom tunes" link in my signature.