I managed to get the fuel bowl out this morning and man those parker sleeves can be a pain in the *** on the head supply lines. I got the first 3 out in just a few moments, then the driver side supply line took another 15 minutes. I used a tool similar to the one below.



I was hopeful that the HPOP lines were what was causing my slow oil leak, but the entire front of the engine is dry. The oil is collecting in the middle and toward the rear drain. It appears that the plenums are dry and maybe the oil is simply coming from the CCV and seeping out the plastic connection between the turbo and the intake. I had thought about removing the spider in order to see more clearly, but it is a very slow leak and not that important to me to fix. Especially since I plan to get the KC38R in the future, so that would eliminate the leak for the most part. There is some oil splatter as well on the compressor side near the connection mentioned previously, so again I am leaning toward that being the spot.

I checked the ICP while I was there and it has a small amount of oil in the connection. I would not say it was pooled in there by any means, but I could put my finger on the harness connection point and some oil was present.

I have seen no ill effects or signs that the ICP is on its way out, but I believe any oil is a sign that it is dying and should be replaced. New one on order from RiffRaff.

Next up is the HPOP lines and connections both on the heads and the HPOP port.

 

There was a post on here a couple months ago where someone rebuilt their fuel bowl but had an o-ring left over. I was planning to lay out the o-rings I bought from Diesel O-Rings in a similar fashion to compare the kit that the other member bought from RiffRaff.

Although, I cannot seem to find it. If anyone has a link to the post or picture of the o-rings, that would be great. I will keep looking for a little while, but want to continue on with the project at hand as well.

EDIT: Found it! https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16830944

See pictures below for more details on the rouge o-ring.

 

If you don't have a f/p gauge, nows the time to plumb the port with a #4orb x 1/8fnpt. Smash a plug in it til you get sender.

 

I do have one, although I am installing the 90 degree elbow onto the plumbing because I didn't like how close the sensor was to the HPOP lines.

Coincidnetly, I do have the same "extra" o-ring as JWHopson did when he rebuilt his fuel bowl. See my picture on the bottom and his picture on the top. You can see I have the same spare o-ring off to the right, similar to how he placed his.

 

Funny you mention that..ive been running sender pre-post, and hated the way it smashed against the spider,so..i did this Say something about this photo
Say something about this photo
This help

 

Just got this email response from Bob at Diesel O-Rings... How is that for service...

Headed out to the garage now to have a closer look at the FPR housing and poppet area.

 

Got it! Turns out the old one was a bit of a sleeve design and very rigid. I thought it was actually a steel ring until I looked a little closer with the directions from Bob. I called Bob at Diesel O-Rings and thanked him for his quick and accurate service. Told them to keep it up!

Red arrow is extra o-ring, yellow arrow is where it is supposed to go.

 

Pictures coming as soon as I get back in the house, but the HPOP lines and fittings are out and new fittings are in. Waiting overnight to let the loctite 680 dry properly.

I could only get 3 out of 4 lines off with the RiffRaff removal tool. I guess 250K miles and 17 years of dirt, *** and oil had the line stuck on pretty well. No problem though as I was replacing the fittings anyway.

My big meat hooks the doctors call hands made it difficult to thread in the passenger head fitting. I took a couple breaks (which included a swig from a cold beer) and not rush the job.

I managed to get all 4 fittings in and torqued down properly. Which by the way is 25 ft lbs for the pump and 20 ft lbs for the head.

Tomorrow is HPOP lines and fuel bowl back in. Then, just waiting (not much longer I am sure) for the failing ICP to arrive. Once that is all done, ops check everything and back to having fun...

 

You're humming right along there

While it's apart, I wondered what the options would be to replace the fuel lines and fitting with a non-parker style connector, maybe similar to what hydraulic hose uses. What do you think, since you can see it all out in the open?

Also, in your earlier pic with the star-style part. That should be removed and the whole thing replaced with just the oring? I didn't quite follow that the other day

 

Well, in my opinion unless there is a problem that would contribute to the hard fuel lines being changed I say leave them. To be honest, the fuel bowl o-rings and even the parker sleeves were in good condition. I tore the bowl down and the HPOP lines on my time instead of on Murphy's (Murphy's Law of $**t happens) time. The new HPOP lines are clearly better than the old ones, and the fittings were damn near welded to the heads and HPOP. The fuel bowl though, I bet would have been fine for years to come.

In short, leave the hard fuel lines alone as they supply enough fuel and cause no restriction issues for common use 7.3 diesels.

Pictures from today...

Old/new HPOP line head fittings



Old/new HPOP lines

 

Which one is the new fitting?

I've had to remove my fuel lines a few times because of this fuel pressure issue. Don't want to replace the parker fittings every time.

You're probably right about leaving them alone.

Keep up the good work and pics!

 

Good stuff, as always. Keep up the good work and communication.

 

I got it all back together, but now the FP is reading ~85 PSI where before it was near ~65 PSI... Taking the FPR off to see what I can see...

 

Think the metal fuel lines are what's causing the increased pressure
probably a kinked during, bud

 

Truck is running now and FP is ~90. At least the HPOP lines are holding strong and working as intended. Still working on the FP issue though...