I managed to get my hydrobooster and both rear calipers replaced this weekend, which wasn't too bad. I did not have to break open the brake hydraulics for the booster work, but working on my back under the DS dash was a rel pain (I'm not as flexible as I used to be). Figuring out how to get that little snap clip off the brake pedal pin was no fun, but it turned out simpler than I expected.

Before anyone asks... no pictures and no write-up. This work is already well-documented elsewhere, and I was trying to squeeze it in while not being rude to out of town company and coordinating with a couple of my kids coming by to visit who I don't normally get to see every month. There was simply no motivation for pics and notes, and I just didn't see the value in re-writing other's work with no NEW information.

My original booster had almost 290K miles on it, and had a drip forming on the rear inside the cab, but the drip had not dropped in the past 3-4 weeks, so I got it before I had a carpet mess to take care of as well.

I replaced the calipers because I found that my driver side rear caliper had finally let go of a piston seal -- that's why I lost so much brake fluid recently. I need to check my notebook, but I don't believe I've ever replaced the rear calipers, and if that's the case, those piston seals have given me a good 290K mile life. Given the mileage. I replaced BOTH calipers completely, as well as the pads which were also within probably 6-9 months of needing to be replaced anyway. Timing worked out well on that.

I screwed up at one point when putting the PS rear brake line banjo bolt back on, though... the caliper side crush washer accidentally slipped off the bolt while I was wrestling it into position, and I broke and almost stripped the bolt while trying to get it tight. I had to use a old crush washer and banjo bolt from the original caliper, but I flipped the washer upside down in hopes of getting a good seal. I think it's leak free, but will check it again tonight when I get home to make sure, and if it's not, I'll just replace both crush washers again and re-bleed that rear caliper.

The pedal is firmer at a higher position now. It was really good before this weekend, but is even better now. Also, I had not flushed the brake fluid through the rear in several years, so the new fluid has certainly contributed to the slight improvement.

I had also planned on replacing all the original rubber lines with some SS braided lines I've had on the shelf for a number of years, but doggone it, I could not locate the braided lines in the garage. There are still a couple of "corners" I have not searched yet, but that's just going to have to wait for a later time.

All in all, I'm proud of the life I've gotten off these brake components. Shoot, even the rear pads had about 100K miles on them and still were 1/8" thick on the inside and 3/16" thick on the outside.

 

Pete, in regards to the brake lines you have hidden in a good spot in your garage, could you post up a link or part number (if you have it) for the lines you bought and are planning to use one day.

I am going to swap to stainless lines when I change out the power steering line as well in the near future.

 

Sounds like a solid maintenance job!

 

Sous, here is a link to the EGR Brakes page where they advertise their SS braided line options. I found an email showing where I purchased them in July 2011.

EGR Performance Kevlar-wrapped Teflon-lined Braided SS Brake Lines

When I bought mine, I purchased what they still picture as a three-line kit. I contacted them and then purchased the remaining lines to cover all 5 soft line positions on our trucks. I cannot recall why they sell a three-line kit for our trucks, because it simply does not cover all the soft line positions we have. We have 5 lines... RF, LF, RR, LR and the fifth one over the rear axle where it splits to the two rear wheels.

That said, if you call EGR Brakes, I have no doubt they can get you fixed up with exactly what you need, and can even cover the full range of lifts on our trucks.

Also, it appears that JEGs has some braided SS line kits for our 4WD trucks, and their kits include all 5 lines.

 

F250.. What's was your symptom, bud. My buddy here at my pad and his brakes at soft. No leaks at calipers nor inside the cab. If you got p/n to everything, think he will want to replace everything

 

Sous, are you saying your going to replace the power steering lines with stainless? Or are you just replacing the power steering lines with original rubber items?

 

I will be replacing the power steering line with an OEM version because it is a high failure point. I asked Corey at CNC Fab if he had plans to develop a steel line, but he replied back with something along the lines of "not at this time".

 

I kept the old line fitting when mine popped a few months ago, to find a replacement AN /JIC fitting, so i can have ss lines made. Just gotta make sure I can find the Teflon washers

 

Symptoms?

Brake hydrobooster was oozing at the back of the shaft inside the cab. Had not dripped yet, but was ready to.

Rear brake caliper, PS, had leaked over a pint of fluid through the piston seal... Brake Light came on in the cab and I found the fluid level extremely low. Upon inspection, I could see the dirty oily crud buildup on the bottom of the caliper body and fluid had been slung all around the inside tire sidewall the same way as if an axle seal had blown.

I don't have part numbers handy right now, but they are easy enough to find on Rock Auto.

 

Sounds like a lot of work was completed.

I am also looking at adding some Stainless lines on my truck and here is what I found through PMF. They have a three piece and five piece kit available.

Ford S/S Braided Brake Lines

 

Even just flushing the brakes helps the pedal. It must be the moisture trapped in the brake fluid. Also, flushing the power steering fluid seems to help the brakes, when it has been a while between flushes. Of course, the steering still seems the same, kind of weak.
Larry

 

I had a chance to do a full PS flush when I blew the pressure line last spring.

 

I finally did a brief write-up and posted it in this thread >>> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...aking-pic.html, in post # 11.

Just for convenience, I've linked the PDF here as well.