Rear Brake hanging up
#1
Rear Brake hanging up
Group, I keep having this problem with my 02 Superduty. The rear brakes keep locking up and smoke the pads. The truck is not driven much so that is most of the issues. it has less than 63,000 miles on it. Mostly only driven in the winter with the salt and crud so rust is a problem. What is your advice on changing so that I can get more than a year without having to do it all over again. I am going to get new calipers and the brake kit. Should I get e-brake stuff too?
Thanks in advance.
Sam
Thanks in advance.
Sam
#2
#4
One sometimes overlooked area to check is the seats in the caliper brackets where the pads sit. There is a stainless steel clip between the ears on the pads and the seat area - rust can build up between the clip and the seat, causing the pads to stick. When replacing pads make sure to clean this area up - some even advise a light touch with a grinder, but make it real light so you don't cause a rattle. Apply a bit of good anti-seize compound there as well. There's some copper based anti seize that I think is recommended for this.
#6
I respectfully disagree that using the ebrakes in the winter isnt a good idea...here me out. Yes on much earlier vehicles this is a very true statement. Looks like you have a stable of older ones for sure. Im speaking specifically about older vehicles, before the weather proof coated and sheathed cables made their debut. This pretty much eliminated the draw-in action of road contaminate each time the ebrake was applied thus causing the cables to seize. Been there done that. Today not using the ebrake will enhance seizure somewhat as the hardware will rust up. Inspect the ebrakes. Yours may have the same issue as most of the rear disc braked E & F series trucks have had, cheap under-designed junk backing plates. Likely chineasium. The ebrake shoe anchor pins pull through the plate then the shoes and their hardware get ground up nicely and can cause brake seizure. Especially on a salted sparsely driven vehicle...been there done that on both my 08 and fairly clean and rust free 11...sadly.
Great advice from NewEngland, an often overlooked area when doing a brake job. The pads need to float a little bit otherwise they will hang up or not retract. Inspect the 15 year old rubber brake lines. They can delaminate internally and can cause a one-way-valve effect and actually hold pressure on the caliper pistons for a period of time (or wheel cylinders if you have drums). Cheap insurance to replace rubber lines every 10 years. On a vehicle like yours that sits you should be bleeding the brake system every 2-3 years or so. In fact everyone should be doing this. Dont replace anything until you do a complete bleed as you'll be pumping contaminated fluid into new calipers and lines.
"What is your advice on changing so that I can get more than a year without having to do it all over again." Buy top quality parts including coated rotors, painted/powder coated calipers. Then drive the thing to full op temp once a month. (20 miles). Park in a garage. Rust proof the chassis & body(google Krown).
"I am going to get new calipers and the brake kit. Should I get e-brake stuff too?" Ive learned over the past 40+ years of wrenching to buy everything then take back what you dont use. Less headache, saves several frustrated greasy traffic ridden trips to the parts store.
Quality brake part vendors...Wagner, Hawk, Power Stop, Ford OEM MotorCraft....everything else has been brought over on a slow boat and wold last. Do your home work as each of the above has their pluses n minuses.
Great advice from NewEngland, an often overlooked area when doing a brake job. The pads need to float a little bit otherwise they will hang up or not retract. Inspect the 15 year old rubber brake lines. They can delaminate internally and can cause a one-way-valve effect and actually hold pressure on the caliper pistons for a period of time (or wheel cylinders if you have drums). Cheap insurance to replace rubber lines every 10 years. On a vehicle like yours that sits you should be bleeding the brake system every 2-3 years or so. In fact everyone should be doing this. Dont replace anything until you do a complete bleed as you'll be pumping contaminated fluid into new calipers and lines.
"What is your advice on changing so that I can get more than a year without having to do it all over again." Buy top quality parts including coated rotors, painted/powder coated calipers. Then drive the thing to full op temp once a month. (20 miles). Park in a garage. Rust proof the chassis & body(google Krown).
"I am going to get new calipers and the brake kit. Should I get e-brake stuff too?" Ive learned over the past 40+ years of wrenching to buy everything then take back what you dont use. Less headache, saves several frustrated greasy traffic ridden trips to the parts store.
Quality brake part vendors...Wagner, Hawk, Power Stop, Ford OEM MotorCraft....everything else has been brought over on a slow boat and wold last. Do your home work as each of the above has their pluses n minuses.
#7
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