Does anyone know which pins I need to cross to check to see if my new door switch is bad or if it's something else? I know the light is good as I can twist my headlight switch or open the passenger door. I bought a new switch but it still doesnt work. It has three different wires going to it so I don't want to jump them until I know what each one does.

 

Just noticed something else odd. If I turn the dome light on with the switch I get a buzz now if the drivers door is open which I never got before. If my headlights are on no buzz. If I push the button in the buzz goes away.

 

A little information on your truck will help.

 

1993 f150 4.9l 5 speed extended cab short bed.

 

Why not just swap it with the passenger side switch and see if it works.

 

They aren't the same. The passenger side sensor is near the hinge and the drivers side is on the latch side but near the bottom. I've already replaced the sensor with a new one.

 

What sensor are you talking about?

The driver side dome light switch is below the wiring going to the door on the hinge side.


There are no sensors or switches in the jamb or on the door. The rubber thing is just a plug covering a square hole in the cab.



And this is just a rivet that happens to line up with the plug.

 

Not on a 93. BWD S1020 - Switch | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Also check out pictures of my truck with the new switch and the old switch that I replaced. There is no hole where the older trucks have a switch on the drivers side.

 

Do you have remote keyless entry, or a factory alarm system? I can't think of other any reason why Ford would put a feature in the sheet metal like the bump out for the switch, then not use it. Plus, it's just a switch. There should be no need for three pins to it unless it did something else too.

As to your original questions to test the switch get a multi meter and check continuity between the wires and ground. Then check for voltage on the other two. Connecting the one that is ground to the one with 12v should turn your dome light on. I have no idea what the third pin does. The buzzing sound is likely related to the key in the ignition with the door open, or the lights on with the engine off, and the door open.

 

For my year the switch I have is listed in auto parts stores and via ford. For whatever reason they did away with the hinge switch. My other two OBS trucks have the normal switch like the passenger side.

The truck is 100 percent manual(windows, locks, mirrors, seats, and transmission) no alarm.. I found another site that listed the three pins as

LT GRN - YEL = Power

BLK - LT BLU = Ground

RED - PINK = Warning chime

But that doesn't make sense to me. If its power to actual ground and not the light(more resistance because of the bulb) then it could pop a fuse. I guess I could test it to see if I get resistance to ground and then pull the bulb and see if the ground goes away before I cross them. But I find it hard to believe I have two bad switches. The original one and the new one. Plus now I am getting a door buzz at times and I'd never heard it before.

 

The switch may be grounding the light circuit to turn it on?

 

The pin out you wanted.




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Subford, do you happen to know where that splice 5201 is in the truck for the dome lamp circuit?

Jjona5, you should check continuity between the switch in the jamb, and that splice, then the splice and the dome light socket. This will tell you were the break in the wiring is, and you can splice in new wire to repair it.

The light bulb is ground. If you were to pop open the dome light you'd only find one wire coming into it, and either the housing itself grounds it to the cab, or there is a short lead grounding it to the cab.

And, my truck is a '95, it looks like they did away with the door jamb switch.

 

this is just a somewhat educated guess, based on my own experience with my (1994) f250 ... i had problems similar to what you are describing; found what MAY be splice 5201 under the drivers side door sill. i was suprised to find the problem there because not only was it protected by the door sill, but the splice is also protected by a factory heat-shrink style of reinforcement.

 

I'm not getting power to the middle wire. I ran a temporary wire there and everything worked fine. I'll have to pull my interior out a bit and trace it back and then rewrap it. It doesnt go far. From the back of the fuse, through the sill, to there as best I can tell. I plan on pulling the dash over spring break to do the metal bracket fix on my spare minty dash and install sound deadening stuff so I'll probably end up fixing it then. I'll strip the wrap and follow it back and then rewrap it.