My truck has developed two serious problems. One, the up-pipes leak. What I could previously accomplish in 3rd gear at 60mph I now must do in 2nd gear at 45 mph. Two, the coast clutch in the transmission broke. From what I've read, it basically means a new transmission. I've looked at BTS, JW, and Ford and it basically means spending $5k, give or take. There aren't any cheap, reliable fixes. My local Ford dealer quoted me $4462 just for the trans. He could not tell me if it came with the triple disc, billet-cover converter or not. That also did not include installation. For that price I would rather get a BTS shipped here and installed by a mechanic. Not sure I want to tackle that job by myself.

I don't know what it's worth as-is, but it's probably worth 14k or 15k here in proper running shape. So is it worth it to fix it and keep it as a tow rig, or should I sell it as is and look for something else? I would probably go with a V10 Ex or pickup if I went that route.

Other than these two problems, the truck is solid. It tows great. It has 185k miles on it now. Important mods are in my signature.

My goal is to get back on the road by the end of this year.

What to do...

 

Fix it. You won't get near $15k since it needs a trans plus up-pipes. It'll hold its value better as time progresses as well. I'm not discounting the gassers in resale, but the clean 7.3's dominate the price field.

I vote replace the trans, install it yourself and do the up-pipes while you're in there.

The transmission really isn't that hard, it's just tedious and cumbersome, especially if you can't get the transfer case off first. I did mine with the t-case installed, took a trans jack as well as a floor back and some ratchet straps. Bellhousing bolts were simple, converter to flex plate boots were simple, turning the motor over sucked a bit but otherwise straight forward. You'll need about five feet of extensions to get to be top passenger side bellhousing bolt, otherwise the rest are easy enough to get to.

Could just throw an HD4R100 in there, dealer prices aren't all that bad - in the $2800-3400 range. Yeah, another $1600 gets you a built trans so that's another alternative... I still vote self install.

Up-piles will be about 3.2 million times easier with the trans out of the way. Which ever route you choose, get them done at the same time.

 

Andy, overall are you pleased with the Ex 7.3 as a platform?

If so, then Matt's perspective is accurate.


I agree with this.

Additionally, you already have $2000 in upgrades (according to your signature) if you go to a V10 Ex you will want/wish you had those.

Your Ex is probably paid for, generally when a trade is made upgrades are acquired and debt is incurred.


Best to you and I'm sure you will make the right decision for you and your needs.

 

I'M with Matt. Put a new tranny in it (it is wayyyyy easier than you think), and slap some new up-pipes on it while the tranny is out. Pipes take about 30 mins with the tranny out!

I got my HD4R100 from a local dealer for $500 over dealer cost ($2350 dealer cost to ALL dealers). Another local dealer wanted $3800 and would not budge, even after I told them what the other quoted me. Said they couldn't make money on a deal like that, so they stuck to their price. Sooo, that came to $2850 plus tax. Some dealers will work with you, some won't. Find one that will. I installed mine in my driveway. By myself. Not the safest way to work, but I got it done. Didn't spend a dime on labor or someone's shop fees. First time doing a tranny in anything (EXCEPT AIRCRAFT), but I have a brain, eyes and hands that work. I did my research, asked questions here and I got it done. You can, too.

The HD4R100 does NOT come with a billet converter, and it is not triple disc. I replaced it with a billet converter of my choosing before I installed (one rated for a diesel application), along with a JW valve body. Easy to do both while it is sitting on the ground.

 

Only thing to piggyback off Mike's post is make sure the converter is filled BEFORE installed the trans. Some say it's fine dry and the pump will fill it. Those people are 10% right. Yes, the pump will fill it. However it will be far from OK long term.

I did the TransGo HD2 kit in mine instead of a single valvebody swap, it also included a conversion from PWM lockup to on/off (way faster). A lot of people have been happy with a JW or BTS valvebody, I opted to go with the TransGo as it covers all three and not just the one.

 

As much as it warms my gas loving heart to see a PSD guy considering replacing his oil burner with a gasser, especially as a tow rig, I have to agree with the other guys, fix it.
If these are the only two significant issues with your 7.3 EX then it is well worth replacing the trans (I would most likely go with the HD4R100 after finding a dealer that will price it right) and the TC of your choice. And yeah, those up-pipes should be super easier with the trans out of the way.
If I recall, you spend a lot of time on the road towing and many long hauls, so why get away from the PSD which does so well with those chores to get into an unknown rig (that will needs some mods to make it as good-ish as your 7.3). Your EX with the new pipes and trans should serve for many more years dragging that TT around this great country.

 

Ok thanks for the sanity check guys. I've done engine swaps before but I wasn't sure about doing a tranny. I think you guys have convinced me to tackle it myself. Now if I can just get some decent weather for a couple of weeks. It's been raining here like it's supposed to in the winter for a change.

Is that $2350 dealer cost accurate as of today? How sure are you about that number? I will definitely call around and see if I can get a better price after I get the money saved up.

 

Will I need to get a new set of gearhead tunes? I read a post from a few years ago about some transmission tuning that was needed because of the triple disc converter.

One more thing - my 6.0 cooler is less than two years old. Given that the trans hasn't actually failed and filled the cooler with debris (fluid is fresh and red), and that I plan to install a screw-on filter for the new trans, do I need to replace it? I understand that Ford won't honor the warranty if I don't though. Will BTS honor the warranty without a new cooler? If I do the swap myself, how would Ford even know? Couldn't I just provide them with a photo-shopped receipt saying that I bought a new cooler?

Or should I just replace the thing?

 

That $2350 dealer cost was as of 15 months ago, and the number came from an honest parts manager at Truck City Ford in Buda, TX. He sells several of them a month here, and that is why he is allowed by the owner to sell them at a $500 profit. He moves a bunch of them.

You don't have to get new tunes. Gearhead was only interested in the valve body I had installed, not the TC from what I remember. That said, if it shifts too hard or too soft after install, you can adjust your tunes for free with them I believe. They just email a new one to you. Super simple.

For the 6.0 cooler, you don't have to replace it. Ford will not honor your warranty if you don't. The literature I got with the transmission stated the oil cooler had to be replaced and the lines and radiator flushed. I kept receipts in case something happened. Since I was already dumping their stamped steel TC in the thing, and replacing the valve body with a better one, I was not going to be able to get my warranty anyway. It is a choice I was comfortable with and made without much deliberation. If it breaks because of those two mods, then I will just learn how to fix it.

 

Ok next question on the part number. I've seen this posted in a bunch of places:

Service Part Number Motorcraft HD4R100 TRM Number
1999 4R100HD Super Duty 4X2 F250, 350, 450, 550 7.3L F81Z7V000HBRM 6U2Z7V000HRM TRM-1621
1999 4R100HD Super Duty 4X4 F250, 350, 450, 550 7.3L F81Z7V000LBRM 6U2Z7V000LRM TRM-1622
2000 4R100HD Super Duty 4X2 F250, 350, 450, 550 7.3L F81Z7V000HBRM 6U2Z7V000HRM TRM-1621
2000 4R100HD Super Duty 4X4 F250, 350, 450, 550 7.3L F81Z7V000LBRM 6U2Z7V000LRM TRM-1622
2001 4R100HD Super Duty 4X2 F250, 350, 450, 550 EXCURSION 7.3L 1C3Z7000EBRM 1C3Z7V000ERM 6U2Z7V000ERM TRM-1619
2001 4R100HD Super Duty 4X4 F250, 350, 450, 550 EXCURSION 7.3L 1C3Z7000FBRM 1C3Z7V000FRM 6U2Z7V000FRM TRM-1620
2002 4R100HD Super Duty 4X2 F250, 350, 450, 550 EXCURSION 7.3L 1C3Z7000EBRM 6U2Z7V000ERM TRM-1619
2002 4R100HD Super Duty 4X4 F250, 350, 450, 550 EXCURSION 7.3L 1C3Z7000FBRM 6U2Z7V000FRM TRM-1620
2003 4R100HD Super Duty 4X2 F250, 350, 450, 550 EXCURSION 7.3L 1C3Z7000EBRM 6U2Z7V000ERM TRM-1619
2003 4R100HD Super Duty 4X4 F250, 350, 450, 550 EXCURSION 7.3L 1C3Z7000FBRM 6U2Z7V000FRM TRM-1620

The question is why isn't there a part number that specifically mentions a 2000 Excursion? The dealers I've called so far haven't had any idea what an HD4R100 is or how to look it up. I gave them the part number and they can order it, but they say it doesn't match the VIN for my truck. I also see that the part numbers for 2000 SD's are different than the ones for 2001 SD's.

 

No idea. You can use the 2000 4x4 listed for the trucks. Same part.

Here is the thread for mine when it went out and what I did:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fter-255k.html

After reading it, my memory was off a bit. It was $2150 dealer cost and I got it for $2650 + tax.

 

That's a good point about the converter and the VB voiding the warranty too. I'd be more worried about getting a bad unit out of the box and having to eat it because of an aftermarket converter, VB, or slightly less than new cooler.

I have had terrible luck throughout my lifetime buying things and having them go bad shortly after purchase or just be DOA. If there's a bad one out there, I'll end up with it. I am a little nervous doing it with a $3000 transmission. I bought a PC last year and spent a week chasing down what ended up being defective memory. Several times I've had people tell me that they've literally never seen a DOA or defective so-and-so that I just bought. I bought a first-generation iPod back when they first came out and the disk died in it a couple days after I bought it. "First time ever" was what the Apple guy told me.

It just makes me nervous. Maybe I should just go with a BTS and not worry about it.

 

If you can afford a BTS, get one! I would have in a heartbeat if I had the time and money to wait and buy from him. Keep in mind that he might need some lead time to build one out for you. I was after some money savings, too, so my choice did work out for me in that regard.

 

If you are close enough and can drive there I would go with BTS. They had a 4week lead time when it was time for me to do mine, but I was broke down and at the shop. I just went with the local guy and so far so good. Pulls great, doesn't skip a beat.

 

Screw fixing it, trade-sies with me for a nice WORKING V-10! I'll go down to Houston with a 6 pack of Natty light and a $5 Hot and Fresh from Little Caesars and get Razzi and Matt to help me