When I bought it last week, I did not have any inspection done. Figured, I'd spend a few $$ now to have it inspected. So, I had the local Ford dealer go over the truck this morning - sort of a pre-purchase inspection - and tell me the condition. Here's what they came up with.

1. Serpentine belt weathered - If and when coolant is drained at some point, replacement is suggested.
2. Rear rotors worn/hardened - Suggest replacement with next pad change.
3. Front brake Pads - LF worn more than RF.
4. Rear Differential cover - oil drip; might need replacement, suggest ford aluminum cover as it may be cheaper
5. Front differential cover - oil drip, may need to be cleaned and resealed/reseated.
6. Trans pan - oil drip. Possible tail shaft as well, but might be blow back from driving
7. Some oil leaks in engine valley - Intake tube replacement to start.
8. Sway bar bushings worn - rattles/clunks over bumps; Suspension components are tight - ball joints, tie rods, steering box
9. Coolant - Not Ford Coolant
10. Slight leak from front of AC compressor, seen on pulley clutch
11. Batteries - Good.
12. Alternator Charging at 14.34v

His comments were - This 16 year old 'tank' looks very good for its age and miles. The oil drips are due to age and they are not gushing leaks to cause too much worry. Just needs some regular TLC. His priority was front pads at the earliest. Rest can follow. He said get all these done within the next 10-15K miles and you should have a long lasting truck.

 

Brakes are pretty simple to do on these trucks. If one side is worn more than the other, the caliper slide pins may need to be replaced. You can always get the rotors machined or just replace them.

The diff covers are easy and the 08+ OEM one is a great upgrade... easy to do.

Sway bar bushings are also very easy to replace and on a 4WD Ex, you have some different options... OEM, poly...

 

Sounds like you did really well! Do all that yourself, none at the dealer

 

When you do the serpentine belt make sure you get a new upper radiator hose for the dual alternator. It goes around the belt so you don't need to drain the coolant the next time you need to remove the belt.

I believe the part number is f8-1z8260-ca

Tim M

 

Most of this stuff will be DIY. That is the plan.

 

Thanks for the tip. Keep it coming.

 

Did he happen to mention (or anyone know off hand) what should the alternator be charging at?

 

I started searching for this information after you asked. Every place seems to list the alternator output in Amps and not Volts. Guess the tech must've measured something else and written down the note incorrectly

 

The voltage measurement is to confirm its charging. Most output ~14vts. Amp draw will be dependent on how discharged the batteries are so unless you drain them down significantly and check, you wont be able to measure current output of the alternator.

 

If that is all a dealership can complain about, looks like you bought a truck that is in great condition.

Other than the possible oil leak(s?) in the valley, all pretty easy DIY maintenance work. Cleaning up the valley may also be no biggie.

Great advice on the dual alternator style radiator hose. I've got one here on the shelf, just waiting for the next time I have to drain some coolant. No idea what was thinking, running the hose through the center of the belt.

 

For me personally, if I'm regularly between 13.6 and 14.4, I'm happy. Sometimes I'll see the readout drop lower, but as long as it doesn't stay too low for too long, I ignore it.



Stewart

 

I had mine in the dealership a few days ago for warranty battery replacement, the first thing my dealership does is turn on all the lights. They love to replace the high level stop lamp.