I'm Baaaack!
#1
I'm Baaaack!
Howdy to all
I am back after a bit of a hiatus.
I purchased a new-to-me 1998 Ford Ranger XLT, Extended cab, 3.0 liter V6, w/automatic, 2WD in Deep Emerald Green Met. with 142480 miles on the clock back in November. I had been looking for the proverbial "Beater with a Heater" for hauling jobs since I bought my 2016 Mustang GT Premium. All I had been finding were well worn and beat up Rangers and F150s. in the price range I was willing to pay which was around $5000. I came across this beauty sitting at a Toyota dealership.
She was in immaculate condition which was RARE! I could not believe the condition it was in. It must have been garage kept for 18 years. Absolutely zero rust (only on the exhaust and differential), no body damage whatsoever. mint condition interior, extremely clean engine bay that belies its age! Stock 14" alloy wheels looked brand new with no oxidation or curb rash with new tires on it.
The only negatives were a small chip in the windshield and crispy cruise control switches that still worked and your normal scuffing and scratches but the paint was in great shape still shiny with no fading, blistering or peeling. It just needs a good buffing and waxing!. I know may have payed a bit more for it but the dealer knocked $1000 for black Friday. I payed just at $5000 for it. It drives great. No funny noises, no leaks and engine is strong and pulls real good. I did notice that the upped ball joint rubber boots are shot but there is no play in the joint itself. I am planning on doing a complete front end job next spring!
The only thing I have done to it so far is replace the factory audio system with a Kenwood digital Media Receiver and Infinity Reference speaker systems.
I am back after a bit of a hiatus.
I purchased a new-to-me 1998 Ford Ranger XLT, Extended cab, 3.0 liter V6, w/automatic, 2WD in Deep Emerald Green Met. with 142480 miles on the clock back in November. I had been looking for the proverbial "Beater with a Heater" for hauling jobs since I bought my 2016 Mustang GT Premium. All I had been finding were well worn and beat up Rangers and F150s. in the price range I was willing to pay which was around $5000. I came across this beauty sitting at a Toyota dealership.
She was in immaculate condition which was RARE! I could not believe the condition it was in. It must have been garage kept for 18 years. Absolutely zero rust (only on the exhaust and differential), no body damage whatsoever. mint condition interior, extremely clean engine bay that belies its age! Stock 14" alloy wheels looked brand new with no oxidation or curb rash with new tires on it.
The only negatives were a small chip in the windshield and crispy cruise control switches that still worked and your normal scuffing and scratches but the paint was in great shape still shiny with no fading, blistering or peeling. It just needs a good buffing and waxing!. I know may have payed a bit more for it but the dealer knocked $1000 for black Friday. I payed just at $5000 for it. It drives great. No funny noises, no leaks and engine is strong and pulls real good. I did notice that the upped ball joint rubber boots are shot but there is no play in the joint itself. I am planning on doing a complete front end job next spring!
The only thing I have done to it so far is replace the factory audio system with a Kenwood digital Media Receiver and Infinity Reference speaker systems.
#2
Nice looking ride, looks to have been well looked after. If it has the upper & lower "A" arm suspension & your looking to do the BJ replacement yourself, have a look here. Ford Ranger Ball Joint Replace
I see your in the high humidity coastal region of Va, have a drop-in type bed liner, so maybe pull that puppy & have a look underneath for rust. Where it contacts the paint, it likes to rub through to the metal & rust out there. Same for the tailgate.
I see in the under hood photo, that it has the rust red color cruise control deactivation switch insulator, that has been known to crack internally leak & cause under hood fires & has a recall to fuse that circuit & or also replace the switch. When I had my recall done, Ford just installed the fused wiring harness, so since the root of the problem was the switch, I paid to have the switch replaced also. The replacement switch has a Black colored insulator. You might have a Ford Dealer check the VIN number to see if it's replacement is covered.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
I see your in the high humidity coastal region of Va, have a drop-in type bed liner, so maybe pull that puppy & have a look underneath for rust. Where it contacts the paint, it likes to rub through to the metal & rust out there. Same for the tailgate.
I see in the under hood photo, that it has the rust red color cruise control deactivation switch insulator, that has been known to crack internally leak & cause under hood fires & has a recall to fuse that circuit & or also replace the switch. When I had my recall done, Ford just installed the fused wiring harness, so since the root of the problem was the switch, I paid to have the switch replaced also. The replacement switch has a Black colored insulator. You might have a Ford Dealer check the VIN number to see if it's replacement is covered.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
#3
Thanks Pawpaw
I was planning on pulling the bed liner as soon as practicable! I did look underneath the bed and there are no signs of rust anywhere so far. I checked the switch and it has the fuse installed. That is what that blue tag states.
I have a full shop manual set inbound so I will consult that when I get it.
I was planning on pulling the bed liner as soon as practicable! I did look underneath the bed and there are no signs of rust anywhere so far. I checked the switch and it has the fuse installed. That is what that blue tag states.
I have a full shop manual set inbound so I will consult that when I get it.
#4
No need to pull the bed, to remove the drop in bed Liner for rust inspection under it. Good to hear no rust through is visible underneath.
EDIT: I don't remember there being a expiration date on the cruise control deactivation switch recall 05S28. Here is a thread I started on the subject. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ol-recall.html
Yes you can purchase a new brake master cylinder located cruise control deactivation switch & install it yourself. Just make sure it has the Black color insulator. BUT, replacing just the switch your self doesn't get you the Fused wiring harness that's part of the recall.
A Ford Dealer should be able to look up the vehicle VIN # to get it's history & see if it qualifies for a no cost recall repair. Certain conditions qualify for a switch & fused wiring harness. Some, like mine only qualified for the fused wiring harness & installation.
SO, if we want the switch replaced too, we have to pay a little extra for a switch.
My Dealer didn't charge me any labor to also replace the switch & bleed the brake master cyl, as my 99 for some reason didn't qualify for the switch to also be replaced, just for the fused wiring harness & it's installation.
EDIT: I don't remember there being a expiration date on the cruise control deactivation switch recall 05S28. Here is a thread I started on the subject. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ol-recall.html
Yes you can purchase a new brake master cylinder located cruise control deactivation switch & install it yourself. Just make sure it has the Black color insulator. BUT, replacing just the switch your self doesn't get you the Fused wiring harness that's part of the recall.
A Ford Dealer should be able to look up the vehicle VIN # to get it's history & see if it qualifies for a no cost recall repair. Certain conditions qualify for a switch & fused wiring harness. Some, like mine only qualified for the fused wiring harness & installation.
SO, if we want the switch replaced too, we have to pay a little extra for a switch.
My Dealer didn't charge me any labor to also replace the switch & bleed the brake master cyl, as my 99 for some reason didn't qualify for the switch to also be replaced, just for the fused wiring harness & it's installation.
#5
#6
Nice condition truck you found. Seems to have been well cared for, which also likely means it has had regular preventative maintenance done as well. As for tire size, just measure the diam of your tires and try to keep it similar. I run 31 inch tires that do have an effect on the speedo, but I just compensate in my head.
#7
WOOOOPS I've corrected the cruise control deactivation switch recall program 05S28 in the above #4 post & put up a link to a thread on the subject.
My moldy oldy foggy brain had confused the multifunction switch replacement program 00B40, with the cruise control deactivation switch replacement program 05S28.
Here is a link to the 05S28 recall TSB http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/...dPdf?id=151063
My moldy oldy foggy brain had confused the multifunction switch replacement program 00B40, with the cruise control deactivation switch replacement program 05S28.
Here is a link to the 05S28 recall TSB http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/...dPdf?id=151063
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caseys
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12-27-2009 02:45 PM