Went to check my antifreeze today to top it off make sure the levels was good and noticed it look like oil was inside it what would cause this

 

meant to add 2004 F250 6.0

 

Blown oil cooler.

 

Should it be driven at all

 

So you don't think it's the head gaskets? It's not getting hot riight away like a head gasket would right.

 

Moved to the 6.0L forum.

 

No it should NOT be driver. You need to flush the cooling system now before the oil degrades all the hoses any worse than it already has. The downside is you have to replace the oil cooler before you flush the crap out, then you might have to do it a second time depending how much trash is pushed through during it. It's going to be a pretty grueling slog through multiple rounds of coolant flushes and changing out the oil cooler, but all the work is 4 out of 10 on a difficulty scale. People here will set you up with so much information and hand-holding that you can get through it.

One bit of unsolicited advice: a blown oil cooler is hard on the EGR cooler for a number of reasons. If you start digging in and the EGR cooler is ROUND you're probably fine, but if it's SQUARE, I'd shell out for an EGR delete kit. Because if the square cooler is messed up and you can't tell because of the oil, it's a lot of rework to get back to it. If this doesn't make sense now and you have no idea what I'm talking about, just read the walk-through in the first link below and it should start making sense. Lots of good pictures to explain things.

Good reading on these things:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...many-pics.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...arts-list.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...nge-101-a.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html

You have the #1 symptom of a blown oil cooler, regardless of what else might be messed up. I'm not trying to be a killjoy so I'm not laying out all the possible problems right now, just get the oil cooler fixed, the cooling system cleaned out, and maybe the EGR deleted and THEN worry about if there's anything else. Don't sweat step #397 when we're at Step #2

 

so I will need to replace the oil cooler then flush the radiator, then replace the oil cooler again or use the same one?

 

There's no guarantee on needing to do the oil cooler twice, meaning replace-flush-replace. It's just a fairly high probability to be prepared for.

Replace the oil cooler, flush the cooling system, evaluate.

 

I would suggest conducting some additional diagnosis before jumping into the deep end of the pool.

How much oil was in the de-gas bottle? Slimy residue or was it as black as your motor oil?

Establish the means to monitor Engine Oil Temperature and Engine Coolant Temperature - look at the differences in the temps. With this you can quantify the risk of the cooler failing/failed and there might be way to mitigate prior to surgery and replacement.

Here is my experience:

I had the following temps differences under conditions:
- difference of 35'F going down the mountain pass at 70mph
- difference of 20'F on flat ground at 60mph
- difference of 14'F going up the mountain pass at 70mph

Steps:
1 - drained as much of the coolant from the radiator drain plug as would drop out
2 - disolved 2cups of Cascade Professional in hot water, added to degas, topped of with tap water
3 - drove 300 miles across two days and plugged in the block heater each night

Temps barely improved.

Next:
4 - drained two gallons of the mixture from the radiator drain plug as would drop out
5 - poured in 2litres (half gallon) of Fleetguard Resolve, not Resolve+
6 - started motor and topped off de-gas with warm water
7 - drove the motor hard to get up above 190'F

Within five minutes above 190'F:
- difference of 10'F going down the mountain pass at 70mph
- difference of 2'F on flat ground at 60mph
- difference of 0'F going up the mountain pass at 70mph

8 - I drained that slime/crud/crap through the radiator drain plug and added in warm tap water as it drained out
9 - flushed the coolant three additional times with warm tap water until the drain was clear of slime/crud/crap and suds

Then did a proper load of coolant Zerex ZXED1 HD.

Your results might vary - certainly worth a try prior to investing in a new oil cooler.

Additional Note:
If the origins of your oil cooler problems are caused by silicant drop out then there is a slime moving through your coolant system. It would be a good idea to flush out that slime/sludge/crap prior to replacing the oil cooler as the new oil cooler could quickly be contaminated with the slime/sludge/crud/crap and then you are back to our original problem.

 

That's ^^^^^ useless if the oil cooler has ruptured.

 

As a resolution it is useless IF the oil cooler is ruptured.

I would suggest conducting some additional diagnosis before jumping into the deep end of the pool.

How much oil was in the de-gas bottle? Slimy residue or was it as black as your motor oil?

Establish the means to monitor Engine Oil Temperature and Engine Coolant Temperature - look at the differences in the temps. With this you can quantify the risk of the cooler failing/failed and there might be way to mitigate prior to surgery and replacement.

 

Engine temperature differences are monitored to determine oil cooler efficiency and to avoid possible EGR cooler ruptures. Most likely... If the oil coolers ruptured, and the EGR cooler is installed.... it's ruptured as well and may be allowing coolant into the intake manifold.

How long do you recommend driving the truck to monitor those temperatures?

 

No I'll admit, I took the guy at his word it was oil. He didn't say it was a milkshake though. If it's "oily" meaning its really diesel and not motor oil, it's a cracked head/ injector cup.

OP, This is what oil/coolant mixed looks like, it doesn't have to be overflowing either, I've seen it packed down into the degas bottle:

 

That's a good possibility... Either way, I wouldnt be driving it until it's checked.

Pull the EGR valve and check for moisture if it's still equipped with an EGR cooler.

If you have a milk shake in the degas tank.. it's ruptured. Check you oil level, it it looks oil and coolant mixed, coolers toast most likely. If it is oil to in the degas, it may not be fully ruptured just yet, I'd be getting ready to change it to prevent a major rupture if is a little dribble now... it's coming.

Copper.farm mentions monitoring, you should be doing that as well. At this point, it may be to late to prevent major damage if it's already happened.