7.3 excursion partial crank, intermittent start
#1
7.3 excursion partial crank, intermittent start
Hello All,
Been a while since i've posted since my excursion has been running great.
Anyway, I went out to start my truck just now and i'm getting a wierd symptom.
The truck gets partial revolution and then to me it seems like the starter bendix pulls back in prematurely and this nasty clank and then a slight "zing". all within a second.
If I try a few more times, it seems to fire. But all the attempts before it fires sound pretty nasty to me.
Does this sound like a symptom of a bad starter/bendix?
A little further history, my excursion was broken into several years ago and they stole my pioneer head unit, in doing so, they forced the shifter down and since then it has been a little "loose". I'm wondering if it could be a neutral safety switch on the transmission?
Anyway, i'm getting ready to order a new neutral safety switch but wondering if I should go ahead a purchase a new starter as well?
Thanks for any input fellas.
Been a while since i've posted since my excursion has been running great.
Anyway, I went out to start my truck just now and i'm getting a wierd symptom.
The truck gets partial revolution and then to me it seems like the starter bendix pulls back in prematurely and this nasty clank and then a slight "zing". all within a second.
If I try a few more times, it seems to fire. But all the attempts before it fires sound pretty nasty to me.
Does this sound like a symptom of a bad starter/bendix?
A little further history, my excursion was broken into several years ago and they stole my pioneer head unit, in doing so, they forced the shifter down and since then it has been a little "loose". I'm wondering if it could be a neutral safety switch on the transmission?
Anyway, i'm getting ready to order a new neutral safety switch but wondering if I should go ahead a purchase a new starter as well?
Thanks for any input fellas.
#2
#5
If you have a DVOM a simple Load Test can determine the issue. I use one of these I made:
Some may not apply to your particular issue. just for reference should you require it.
STARTER MOTOR — LOAD TEST
NOTE: The batteries must be fully charged before performinga starter load test.
1. Set the parking brake and shift the transmission into the NEUTRAL position.
2. Remove Fuse 17 from the engine compartment fuse box.
3. Connect the Alternator, Regulator, Battery and Starter Tester (ARBST). Follow the manufacturers supplied instructions.
4. Connect a remote starter switch across the starter relay Terminal and the battery positive terminal post.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
6. Crank the engine and record the voltmeter reading.
7. Turn the carbon pile control **** until the voltmeter indicates the same reading recorded during cranking the engine. Record the ammeter reading.
8. Compare the ammeter reading with specifications.
STARTER MOTOR — MOTOR FEED CIRCUIT VOLTAGE DROP TEST (7.3L)
1. This test is performed to determine if slow cranking is caused by high resistance in the starter motor circuit wiring.
2. The voltage drop test can only be performed with the starter motor on the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the wiring from the fuel shutoff solenoid.
4. Connect the positive lead of the 73 Digital Multimeter to the battery positive (+) post, and the negative lead to the starter solenoid Terminal.
5. Connect a remote starter switch between the starter solenoid Terminal and the positive battery terminal post.
6. Press the remote starter switch and record the voltage reading.
7. The voltage reading should be 0.5 volt or less. A reading higher than
0.5 volt indicates high resistance.
8. Repeat the test on the starter solenoid B-terminal.
9. If the readings are higher than 0.5 volt, remove the wiring from the starter solenoid.
10. Clean and inspect each wire connector and the starter solenoid terminals.
11. Install the wires onto the starter solenoid and retest.
12. If the reading at the starter solenoid M-terminal is still higher than 0.5 volt or the reading at the B-terminal is lower, carry out the Starter Solenoid Component Test. If no change is noted, install a new positive battery cable lead.
STARTER MOTOR — MOTOR GROUND CIRCUIT VOLTAGE DROP TEST (7.3L)
NOTE: A slow cranking condition can also be caused by high resistance in the ground circuit.
1. Disconnect the wiring from the fuel shutoff solenoid.
2. Connect the Digital Volt-Ohmmeter positive lead to the starter motor housing.
3. Connect the Digital Volt-Ohmmeter negative lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.
4. Connect a remote starter switch between the starter solenoid Terminal and the positive battery terminal post.
5. Press the remote starter switch and record the voltage reading.
6. The voltage reading should be 0.2 volt or less. If the voltage reading is higher, remove and clean the negative cable connections at the battery, starter motor and the body.
7. Retest the system. If readings are still higher than 0.2 volt, test each individual negative cable.
STARTER SOLENOID (7.3L)
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Using the Digital Multimeter, check the windings of the solenoid as follows:
a. Measure the resistance between the starter motor ground terminal and the solenoid case. The resistance reading should be approximately 0.95 ohms.
b. An extremely high resistance reading indicates a break or fault in winding continuity.
c. A very low resistance reading indicates a short or ground in the winding circuit.
*Either condition is cause for installation of a new solenoid assembly.
Some may not apply to your particular issue. just for reference should you require it.
STARTER MOTOR — LOAD TEST
NOTE: The batteries must be fully charged before performinga starter load test.
1. Set the parking brake and shift the transmission into the NEUTRAL position.
2. Remove Fuse 17 from the engine compartment fuse box.
3. Connect the Alternator, Regulator, Battery and Starter Tester (ARBST). Follow the manufacturers supplied instructions.
4. Connect a remote starter switch across the starter relay Terminal and the battery positive terminal post.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
6. Crank the engine and record the voltmeter reading.
7. Turn the carbon pile control **** until the voltmeter indicates the same reading recorded during cranking the engine. Record the ammeter reading.
8. Compare the ammeter reading with specifications.
STARTER MOTOR — MOTOR FEED CIRCUIT VOLTAGE DROP TEST (7.3L)
1. This test is performed to determine if slow cranking is caused by high resistance in the starter motor circuit wiring.
2. The voltage drop test can only be performed with the starter motor on the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the wiring from the fuel shutoff solenoid.
4. Connect the positive lead of the 73 Digital Multimeter to the battery positive (+) post, and the negative lead to the starter solenoid Terminal.
5. Connect a remote starter switch between the starter solenoid Terminal and the positive battery terminal post.
6. Press the remote starter switch and record the voltage reading.
7. The voltage reading should be 0.5 volt or less. A reading higher than
0.5 volt indicates high resistance.
8. Repeat the test on the starter solenoid B-terminal.
9. If the readings are higher than 0.5 volt, remove the wiring from the starter solenoid.
10. Clean and inspect each wire connector and the starter solenoid terminals.
11. Install the wires onto the starter solenoid and retest.
12. If the reading at the starter solenoid M-terminal is still higher than 0.5 volt or the reading at the B-terminal is lower, carry out the Starter Solenoid Component Test. If no change is noted, install a new positive battery cable lead.
STARTER MOTOR — MOTOR GROUND CIRCUIT VOLTAGE DROP TEST (7.3L)
NOTE: A slow cranking condition can also be caused by high resistance in the ground circuit.
1. Disconnect the wiring from the fuel shutoff solenoid.
2. Connect the Digital Volt-Ohmmeter positive lead to the starter motor housing.
3. Connect the Digital Volt-Ohmmeter negative lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.
4. Connect a remote starter switch between the starter solenoid Terminal and the positive battery terminal post.
5. Press the remote starter switch and record the voltage reading.
6. The voltage reading should be 0.2 volt or less. If the voltage reading is higher, remove and clean the negative cable connections at the battery, starter motor and the body.
7. Retest the system. If readings are still higher than 0.2 volt, test each individual negative cable.
STARTER SOLENOID (7.3L)
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Using the Digital Multimeter, check the windings of the solenoid as follows:
a. Measure the resistance between the starter motor ground terminal and the solenoid case. The resistance reading should be approximately 0.95 ohms.
b. An extremely high resistance reading indicates a break or fault in winding continuity.
c. A very low resistance reading indicates a short or ground in the winding circuit.
*Either condition is cause for installation of a new solenoid assembly.
#6
Thanks for the replies guys.
I cleaned the battery terminals, no change.
I went underneath the truck and found that the upper bolt of the starter was about halfway backed out I tightened up both bolts, had some hope but on the second crank it failed. Pulled it and went over to Napa.
Swapped it out last night and wow, I forgot what a fast cranking starter sounds like. I've probably cranked it over 10 times with no failures. Problem solved.
Now on to one of my other issues. When someone broke into the truck to steal the radio, they FORCED the column shifter down, doing so has made the shift detents very soft and spongy. Are the detents controlled by the neutral safety switch down on the transmission or are there some other detents that I should be worried about on the column? I'm about ready to pull the trigger on eBay for one.
Thanks in advance!
I cleaned the battery terminals, no change.
I went underneath the truck and found that the upper bolt of the starter was about halfway backed out I tightened up both bolts, had some hope but on the second crank it failed. Pulled it and went over to Napa.
Swapped it out last night and wow, I forgot what a fast cranking starter sounds like. I've probably cranked it over 10 times with no failures. Problem solved.
Now on to one of my other issues. When someone broke into the truck to steal the radio, they FORCED the column shifter down, doing so has made the shift detents very soft and spongy. Are the detents controlled by the neutral safety switch down on the transmission or are there some other detents that I should be worried about on the column? I'm about ready to pull the trigger on eBay for one.
Thanks in advance!
#7
When someone broke into the truck to steal the radio, they FORCED the column shifter down, doing so has made the shift detents very soft and spongy. Are the detents controlled by the neutral safety switch down on the transmission or are there some other detents that I should be worried about on the column?
Stewart
Last edited by Stewart_H; 12-08-2016 at 02:31 PM.
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