Does anyone know of a place that makes roof skins or repair panels for these trucks? My 64 is rotted all around the drip rails and before I try to hand form repair panels I would like to see if someone is offering them already made.

 

61-63 has different roof than 64-66.

 

It's a big piece of metal , so a location would help , if your looking for used sheet metal . I have 64 cab with minimal rust in the floors and a solid roof

 

I live in northwest Pennsylvania. I really don't want to change cabs since I have already replaced portions of the floor. Most of my cab is good except for a couple areas, the worst being the roof

 

It's not all that difficult to make a patch for the roof as long as it is only above the doors. When I had my cab blasted it uncovered a lot of pin holes in a previous patch above the doors. So I just cut them out and made some patches from cold roll sheet. The most difficult part is removing the roof from the drip rail without damaging the drip rail. I ended up using a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to get it out.

 

I have a 65, if you're interested, I'll take a look at it when it stops raining to make sure it's good.

 

do you still have this roof panel? How much do you want for it and where are you located. I have a 66 and need that panrl.

 

Do you still have this cab and how much do you wznt for it?

 

C4TZ-8150202-A .. Roof Panel / Obsolete

1964/65 F100/1100 & N/NT500/1100; 1966 F100/750.

 

In what way?

 

‘64-‘66 is slightly taller from the drip rail up. Not sure if there are other slight differences but that’s the main one.

 

Ok thank you.

 

Have same issue w/ 65 and come across drip rail for various Ford passenger cars considering research to find drip rail as close to contour of my 65 and try tweaking the rail to fit???

 

The profile of a drip rail makes the metal very stiff, and it isn't really bendable/shapeable without kinking it unless you have some fairly serious metalshaping knowledge/skill and tools. The gentle arc over the middle of the windshield would probably be possible to bend into shape by hand, but the tighter corners or the curve at the ends would be very difficult to shape. Shrinking/stretching the metal would be necessary, and the direction the shrink/stretch needed wouldn't work with the usual Lancaster style shrinker/stretcher.


The best option is to find a less rusted donor roof and separate the roof skin and drip rails from the main inner structure. I have details of that process in a build thread here-

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...aint-work.html

 

I ended up finding a donor roof in PA for $25. Less work than replacing the cancer without replacing the whole cab per my welder. My roof was pretty bad though.