In the previous year 6.7 we could wire an upfitter switch to the SEIC controller to serve as an on demand high idle switch, has anyone worked on this for our 2017s yet?

I found this but will need someone a little more electrically inclined than I to figure out which wire goes where.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q-256.pdf

 

Subscribed to watch for answers.

 

If I read the supplied document correctly, 12v power from any upfitter switch can be routed to pin number 7 (yellow/green wire) on the SEIC pigtail connector located behind the passenger kick panel. This connector is conveniently located right next to the pass through wires that run into the engine compartment and terminate next to the wires from the upfitter switches. Applying voltage to this wire via an upfitter switch will initiate the SEIC. You will also need to install a resistor between pins 9 (green wire) and 10 (white/brown wire) for 6.7 OR pins 18 (yellow/green wire) and 9 (green wire) for the 6.2 to set the desired stationary idle rpm. There is a resistor chart on the link you provided that gives different resistance values for different rpm's.

I am not a professional by any means and feel it necessary to insert a standard disclaimer here. Please consult with someone much more experienced than I before you start wiring stuff together on your new truck.

Hopefully this helps to clarify things for you.

 

Also interested in answers.

 

Thanks reseehc that is what I was thinking from reading through the buliten but the resistor was throwing me since I didn't remember it being needed in the '16s and earlier.

On a side note for the resistor that would make it possible to use a rheostat and have an adjustable high idle controller.

 

I would like to do this as well; had it on my 2016 diesel. Someone should do a picture write-up and make it a sticky.

 

When driving over the road cold winters nights could prevent the engine from generating enough heat to maintain the temperature inside the cab and engine temps would drop to 120-140 degrees at idle. Around 1100-1200 rpms would maintain 165 or more degree temp and kept the cab warm and the side benefit was enough combustion temperature to prevent the build up of paraffin in the cylinders which can be witnessed when a truck which idled at 650 rpms overnight would take off in the morning. Volumes of white smelly wax laden smoke would cloud the air and it would sometimes take twenty miles to clean up enough to start running correctly again. Each of these accumulations and then burnoffs contributed to a shortened injector life. Laws have changed re: idle and many have aux power to run heat without running the engine. I too will program 1 upfitter switch for a high idle, not for the above reasons but to supply electric current to the camper. 377 amps of alternator power would be a shame to waste just charging cell phones.

 

The supplemental heater works in conjunction with the standard heater core. As the coolant slowly warms up, the electric heater heats the already heated air through the standard core and become more effective. If you have 90F coolant flowing through the core, that isn't going to produce much heat. But then the electric takes the "preheated" air and runs it over its electric oils, and now reasonable heat is pushed out.

But obviously, the engine running that cold is bad from a variety of standpoints. The Ford engine ECU will actually idle the engine up on its own in very cold weather.

 

I actually just tested it out tonight with a little project I've been working on for a few years now, over in the 6.7 forum. I started it in 2012, but never finished it before selling my truck.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14170464

 

Any one do the SEIC yet.

 

I have a F-450 Ultimate lariat on order. After looking at the standard features, it looks to me that the SEIC is standard. Can anyone with a F-450 confirm?
Regards,
Skip

 

Anyone with a 250 or 350 do this yet?

 

I really want to do this before it gets really cold. In the past it was a resistor and a couple of wires under the dash to one of the upfitters. Now, I've heard it implied that it is dealer-only, and only if you have the upfitters?

 

Not yet just bought a new house for my truck and have to finish renovation but it is on the list for a spring project.

 

It's just like the previous generation. Only difference is the wires have moved to the passenger side. I have gotten mine to idle up with my arduino project, but a resister and switch would do the job too.