Originally Posted by OUTATIME

Hello my name is Adam,
good day to everyone here I first off would like to thank everyone on the interweb for the hard work and dedication thats been put into this site and other car and truck forums out there it is a blessing to have good people around giving good support and I am grateful.

I have a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 with 234000 Miles I bought it 4 months ago it's a Texas truck now in Ohio I have had a recent intermittent issue with starting when I go to start it up in the mornings I would get a check engine light with relays clicking going on and off on and off in synchronization with the check engine light

I have checked the ICP the ficm glow plug module and the grounds sometimes it would be all lights ABS check engine check gages the wrench wait to start battery and airbag when I go to start it does nothing sometimes it will bump the starter when I'm holding it to start

when all the lights are on and the check engine light is off as well I do not get communication to my ScanGauge it's only when the check engine light is solid on I hear the fuel pump and and I can start it scan gauge comes on and it starts up runs for a few seconds then dies before it dies it runs funny wait to start light comes on then dies maybe after two or three times restarting it after dying it will run fine for a while and randomly down the road it will do the same thing with the wait to start light and will cut off

now that it is colder I thought maybe putting it on the warmer would help but that seems to have no effect it started up on a 50-degree morning but wouldn't start up plugged at 110 degrees. My fuse is running real short with this truck and I hate to see it go because it does drive like a dream I love the 6-liter but hate the problems

I have a multimeter and a ScanGauge 2 for my diagnostic abilityI am throwing engine code for Cam and crank sensor it has six month old batteries I also noticed I started it up and my voltage was 11.5 and staying within 10.5 + 11.5 shouldn't the alternator be picking up at this point even at idle I had my foot on the gas at a thousand RPMs and still nothing and no change in voltage letting it sit idling for a couple minutes the alternator picked up and it jumped from 11.3 to 13.7 and stayed between 12.5 and 13.5 after that.

please excuse the excessive post this is my first post and I thank you for anybody who takes the time and reads this I am struggling right now and could use any sort of help on this issue thank you in advance and thank you for your time

Originally Posted by OUTATIME

I also noticed I started it up and my voltage was 11.5 and staying within 10.5 + 11.5 shouldn't the alternator be picking up at this point even at idle I had my foot on the gas at a thousand RPMs and still nothing and no change in voltage letting it sit idling for a couple minutes the alternator picked up and it jumped from 11.3 to 13.7 and stayed between 12.5 and 13.5 after that.

Originally Posted by OUTATIME

Hello my name is Adam,
good day to everyone here. I first off would like to thank everyone on the interweb for the hard work and dedication thats been put into this site and other car and truck forums out there. It is a blessing to have good people around giving good support and I am grateful.

I have a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 with 234000 Miles I bought it 4 months ago. It's a Texas truck now in Ohio. I have had a recent intermittent issue with starting.

When I go to start it up in the mornings I would get a check engine light with relays clicking going on and off on and off in synchronization with the check engine light. I have checked the ICP, the ficm glow plug module and the grounds. Sometimes it would be all lights: ABS, check engine, check gages, the wrench, wait to start, battery and airbag.

When I go to start it does nothing. Sometimes it will bump the starter when I'm holding it to start. When all the lights are on and the check engine light is off as well I do not get communication to my ScanGauge. It's only when the check engine light is solid on I [can] hear the fuel pump and I can start it. Scan gauge comes on and it starts up runs for a few seconds then dies. Before it dies it runs funny. Wait to start light comes on then dies. Maybe after two or three times restarting it after dying it will run fine for a while. And randomly down the road it will do the same thing with the wait to start light and will cut off.

Now that it is colder I thought maybe putting it on the warmer (block heater) would help but that seems to have no effect. It started up on a 50-degree morning but wouldn't start up plugged at 110 degrees.

My fuse is running real short with this truck and I hate to see it go because it does drive like a dream. I love the 6-liter but hate the problems. I have a multimeter and a ScanGauge 2 for my diagnostic ability. I am throwing engine code for Cam and crank sensor, it has six month old batteries. I also noticed I started it up and my voltage was 11.5 and staying within 10.5 + 11.5. Shouldn't the alternator be picking up at this point even at idle? I had my foot on the gas at a thousand RPMs and still nothing, and no change in voltage. Letting it sit idling for a couple minutes the alternator picked up and it jumped from 11.3 to 13.7 and stayed between 12.5 and 13.5 after that.

Please excuse the excessive post. This is my first post and I thank you for anybody who takes the time and reads this. I am struggling right now and could use any sort of help on this issue. Thank you in advance and thank you for your time.

Originally Posted by Misky6.0

This is "normal" because of the stock 110 AMP alternator.
That is why folks upgrade to higher output alternators (like my DC XP270 AMP and cable upgrade from Ed @ ficmrepair.com).
The glow plugs remain on for UP TO 2 Minutes (regardless of the "wait-to-start" dash board lite). During this period, the alternator is unable to maintain the voltage in the system above whatever you see (10.5 to 11.5 is pretty common).
Once the glow plugs turn off - the voltage jumps up to mid 13s like you see.

It's pretty common for the FICM to work too hard with 10.5 volts and for it's power amplifier circuits to go bad over time as well. The Scangauge2 is ESSENTIAL (or an ODB2 blue-tooth adapter and a smartphone/tablet APP) to be able to monitor the information available directly from the PCM.

There are 3 FICM voltages, 2 are typically 12volts and 1 is 48 volts (the output voltage which is used to activate the fuel injectors).
It's critical for the main voltage to NOT drop below 45 (+/-) ever! IF it does it's an indication your FICM is/has gone bad..

So, welcome to the FTE 6L world. Get the required tools to determine what needs to be fixed BEFORE you start throwing money at "suspected" problems.

An informed 6L owner is the most likely to be a happy 6L owner.

Originally Posted by BLADE35

So need to clarify

You turn the Key and nothing happens??

OR

You turn the key and Starter does spin the engine but won't start and run

Check fuse F-22

Originally Posted by BLADE35

Ok gotcha

Check the ciggaret lighter fuse that powers OBDII PORT

There is a Single wire with the pull apart plug by the passenger battery
Pull it apart and touch it to the positive terminal of battery see if starter will engauge BUT be carful because you will be overriding the trans safety switch so it may roll a little if it's actually stuck in gear

I have a code to check the trans range sensor but I'll have to get home to my PC it wasn't on the list in tech folder

I doubt it's a trans range sensor but you need to rule it in or out

Originally Posted by BLADE35

Ok gotcha

Check the ciggaret lighter fuse that powers OBDII PORT

There is a Single wire with the pull apart plug by the passenger battery
Pull it apart and touch it to the positive terminal of battery see if starter will engauge BUT be carful because you will be overriding the trans safety switch so it may roll a little if it's actually stuck in gear

I have a code to check the trans range sensor but I'll have to get home to my PC it wasn't on the list in tech folder

I doubt it's a trans range sensor but you need to rule it in or out

Originally Posted by BLADE35

This one may test you patience

Wire problem possibly a PCM power relay worn

When it won't start wiggle wire harness to PCM it tucked in driver fender right behind battery

Originally Posted by OUTATIME

Tried wiggling and nothing. But now I can't get it to do the issue to find the problem! It's got a mind of its own