I am going to use the braces on the rear fenders (I know rust?) my ? Is do you shim to taste or just pull the fender in tight, I like the straight look not pulled in what did you guys do

I can't put 2pic so another post

 

There is a gap at the bed I don't think the pic shows it


I can put some washers in here?
I talking at the brace not at the fender to bed

 

It doesn't appear like the fender is all the way on? I agree with the straight look.

 

Yes that is the left side need to tighten this is the rt side the bolts are just finger tight no open gap here going to tighten once everything is on
U

Truck should be close to level

 

The brace is open about 3/8-1/4" or so

 

Just afraid of cracking the paint it's getting tight

 

Is there enough meat left on the brace at the end where it bolts to the bed that you could slot it on the mill or other wise to give you some room for adjustment ?

 

It has a hook shape on the bed end if slotted I don't think the nut would lay flat
The bed is from northern classics and seems the same as oem and one of the braces is a repop but the other is oem and they are same size and shape. has any one just put some kind of spacer or shim I'm using nilock nuts so not worried about coming off I have some 1/4" rubber I can maybe make do with that

 

Nylon spacers might be less likely to hold water. Anything, metal washers, rubber, etc should be fine.

 

IMHO, with glass fenders you don't really need the brace. I built two trucks with glass fenders and did not use the brace on either. Fenders looked okay and worked well.

 

Roy
I think the rubber pad and a plastic washer would do the job well. Fender looks good.

I am jealous- whish mine was that far along.

Dan

 

Yea going to use the rubber with a ss fender washer I don't want to pull it in any farther
What was the name of that place you got your drive shaft at

 

I've been meaning to make some for my 'glass fenders for the last 10 yrs. Maybe this winter? I was figuring to glue a wood block to the fender and attach to that.

 

I used the original fenders and fabbed up s/s braces from 3/4" tubing.

I measured the length by holding the fenders so that they were plumb. The hardest part was drilling the tubing. where I had flattened and bend it. One area of rust I hope to have mitigated.

Tom

 

I'm not worried about rust here treated with KBS with bed liner over that
Used a 1/4 rubber shim at the bed side now the curves match in front of the tire and at the rear or should I say close. So when I try the running boards I probably have to change them again