New 2005 6.0 Excursion owner here. The air filter minder light is coming on faintly all the time, whether or not the harness is plugged into the minder or not. The indicator on the minder itself shows that the filter is fine. I did a search on here and didn't find anything of relevance about this. Here is a picture with the light on bright in test mode, then dim as it is driving. The PO had it looked at and they thought they would have to remove the dash to dig deeper into it. The speedometer doesn't seem super accurate, either. It is definitely within 5 miles or so. I did the gauge test mode with the reset button, but it didn't seem to make any difference. Sounds like I might need to lube the speedometer cable based on other threads. Can I kill two birds with one stone with the dash removed and tackle both of these? Any ideas? Thanks.

 

When you find the cable to lube for the speedometer let me know, I haven't found it either but I didn't see the other threads on this.




But I've heard that electrons don't need lubrication.

Do you have the owners manual for this truck?

 

Jack.... stop messin with the newbie's. Speedometer cable is plugged into the Speedometer, everybody know that!

Standard Speedometer cable lube will work just fine, available at any automotive parts store.

Welcome to the site, lots of great reading here and answers to most questions.

 

Both of you two are horrid.
No cable to lube it electronic. You said that it does not matter if it's
plugged in or not on the filter minder. So I would say that you have a
short somewhere.

If your up for diagrams I can post your year in PDF format.



Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

I found the new Archoil SCF8400 provides a better result on the '66 Shelbys, but I can't say anything with these trucks until I find that damn cable.

 

Hey, I put the word electrons in my post.

 

There you go... answers to MOST questions. That's 5 answers in 4 posts to 2 questions.

And Jack doesn't even like newbie's, let alone letting them ask questions before reaching a 10 post count.

To the OP: do you have stock sized tires, most likely why your speedo is off. Check the door sticker for the correct size supplied with the truck from the factory..
Or the owners manual.

All good answers, unless your from Warshington

 

Oh my God(face palm)

 

Did you start the truck with the filterminder unplugged?? Cause according to the pic,, it's koeo on the first pic. Normally when the minder shorts out,, unplugging kills the light. So my ?? Is,, did you start the truck with the minder unplugged?

 

They're just screwing with you too,, Way to make a newbie feel welcome guys. This forum has always been above that crap,, guess not anymore. I'm the first to chime in on a smack talker,, but that wasn't this situation.

 

Well I am a newbie here, but not a newbie to forums such as these. I am happy to provide help and advice to others in my areas of expertise on other sites. I was about to go find a site that wasn't so snarky, but thanks to Yahiko and run6.0run for chiming in.

The first pic was not with the minder unplugged, it was using the gauge test feature where all the idiot lights light up (where you hold the reset button down for a period of time and start the engine). It sounds like it is some sort of short in the harness or in the dash to cause it to light dimly even when the harness is unplugged. This is a 2005 Eddie Bauer Excursion with I believe all the options. I later had the engine running and unplugged the harness and there was no change in the brightness of the light. It was still on dim.

The tires match the sticker in the door jam. The speedometer just seems to be a bit delayed. You will be going 40, then be slowing down and seems to be slow to correct. For a digital instrument it seems a little lacking, but is certainly something I can live with.

Thanks for the help.

 

We were having a little fun.... relax.
Try cleaning the connector, it may be a little corroded.

Filter minder is shorted, why the lights on constant. Try separating the wires right near the connector. They may appear to have a slight whitish color to the plastic coating, that would indicate stress.

 

Before you guys come down from that horse, you'll notice there is as a space between my comments in post two, which was where an imported emoji was supposed to be indicating the first line was kidding around.

Then I mentioned in my own way the gauge was electronic.

Randy and I was then going back and forth jabbing at each other from earlier threads. I didn't pick up on this going south as I didn't realize the emoji wasn't there so the interpretation could be different. You guys have earlier problems with me that came to the surface here, take it to PM.

Singlecoil,

Ford stopped designing speedometer cables in this platform back in the mid '90s. SAE and the Federal Register has a range for speedometer accuracy, and it can be 2.5mph off, and with the hundreds of different Ford platforms we tested, they usually are. The odometers are closer.

As far as the hysteresis in the speedometers that spec is wide open as the expectation is that people don't watch that. And it varys not only by model but by supplier, so as the Superduty lineup changes clusters, the new model can be different.

We ended up with a controversy with NHTSA years ago as they changed the specifications for burnishing brakes during the performance tests. Rather then full stops during the burnish, then went to snubs, slowing to 20mph before accelerating. The problem was we always had cooler brake temperatures then other companies, or by NHTSA. I had the drivers use our instrumentation HUD for speed because that was accurate. Most lower pay burnish drivers went by the speedometers. This really came to a head during a new platform bus test at NHTSA's home track that we were running with Meritor. Our driver had one temp, Meritors another, with a former NHTSA engineer saying the speedometer tracked accurately after several passes to a radar gun.

Ok, so now I had each driver do the snub to the radar gun, having the check being at the snubs brake release. My driver was at 20mph, the target. The other driver at 17mph, because he was using the speedometers speed to release, and the hysteresis caused the error as he released at speedometer 20, actual 17.

We continued running the test our way, the engineer had about 20 different vehicles snub at him to find varying speedometer hysteresis could alter the FMVSS burnish temps the way it was written in the Federal Register.

So maybe you find it lacking, but your going to have to learn to live with it like all of us. If you want better speedometer accuracy to steady state speeds, that can be reprogrammed into the ABS software by a Ford dealer or someone with an IDS.

Randy's got you covered with the air filter sensor.

 

Ok,, so you left a part of your post out,, which was clearly demonstrating how much you want to help the op,,, Then talk about others being on a horse???

This doesn't need to be in pm,, cause you already almost ran off the new member,, and he should see that degrading new users due to lack of knowledge doesn't show every members character. There's plenty of other forums where that happens.

 

Come on guys! We're better than the two running for president.