Used my 1963 F350 flatbed to move furniture ihis weekend, roughly a 200 mile trip. Almost made it home but 30 miles from home just off interstate 75 it started losing power and backfiring under acceleration in 4th gear. When I took the exit ramp and shifted into 3rd I lost nearly all acceleration and it died on the off ramp. Wouldn't start and battery acted like it was low. (Checked it, 12.00 VDC) new battery alternator and starter put on before trip. Any suggestions...timing? Points? It's a 292

Thanks

 

Could be a few things from the description.

I find my well charged batteries typically put out more than 12 volts.

Do you have a battery charger with a TEST switch on it? The TEST switch puts an actual load on the battery to ensure it can handle a draw. I've seen batteries that show 12 volts across the terminals with a voltmeter - with no load - but when you put the load on them they show a low reading.

A vehicle will run off of just the battery, provided it is charged up, for quite a while. Especially with no headlights or accessories draining it.

And that is another test that can generally be made, too. Charge the battery real good. Get the vehicle running (if possible) and then disconnect the battery while it is running. Just the ground terminal can be disconnected. If it dies then that is a sign the alternator is not putting out enough current to keep it going or the voltage regulator is not allowing the current to flow.

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Check your points first. When was the last time they were checked ?

 

Hmmm....probably 2005. It's been in storage quite a while. Thanks, I vaguely remember another "points" car I had years ago that gave me some of the same symptoms. I'll try the points first...thanks

 

You might want to charge the battery first. A 12v battery showing 12v is essentially dead, although an old vehicle (no FI) can run, and maybe even crank and start with a bit of luck, with only 12v. It should measure at around 13.6v when fully charged. Too much voltage can burn points; too little won't hurt them.
An easy way to test a battery: Charge it up, disconnect the coil lead and crank the engine. If the volt meter shows it doesn't drop below 9.6v when cranking it's probably ok.

 

Ya I would bet the points are done for or out of adjustment. As noted Battery voltage might be low. Once you get it running again check the voltage at the battery it should be no less than 13.4V while running. Your battery should be no less than 12.4V after sitting and stabilizing after a charge.

 

I too say check points 1st. I will also say the the truck will run without a battery in it. Don't believe it, start your truck and remove the cable. If generator/alternator is working the engine will continue to run.



John

 

Well I finally pulled the distributor and found the problem. The points remain closed throughout rotation of the distributor. The only way I can get the points to open is if I push the shaft to the side, then the lobe hits the points an lifts the points. It appears the shaft bushing is worn? Question; can I rebuild the distributor or should I just buy a new distributor? Thanks in advance for the help.

Dan

 

Do a search on distributor rebuilders. There are lots to choose from.

I would have sent you to Tim O'Conner (Tim O'Connor Distributor Rebuilding and Restoration - Services), but I just checked his website and it says "closed until further notice." I hope he's OK. I'm afraid we're going to be losing untold knowledge of vintage performance over the next 10 years.

 

How much movement is in the distributor shaft?

 

Enough slop to keep the shaft lobe from raising the points. Already made up my mind and ordered a distributer, rotor, cap, wires and Pertronix ignition with a flame thrower coil. Its a Ford work truck, not really concerned with original equipment or numbers matching garbage. Thanks for the help