Does the inner oil seal have to be pressed in tight against the bearing? If not what limits the movement of the bearing slightly? I have just got it to sit flush, but it seems as though that would allow the bearing to still move in and out of that bearing race slightly?

 

The inner bearing fits tight against the shoulder of the spindle, the same diameter the seal runs on.

 

so that seal should mate up with the shoulder of the spindle. Will there still be some movement for the bearing?

 

You have the seal correctly installed, it should be flush with the hub. The seal runs on the shoulder, the inner race of the bearing fits against the shoulder. When you adjust the bearings you are tightening the bearings between the shoulder and the nut. It is normal to have the space between the bearing and the seal, so that the seal is running on the shoulder and not on the edge of it.
Mark

 

Can somebody give me a part # at oreillys, napa, auto zone, ??? That I can get a new inner oil seal. It calls for part 1190 but I am trying to find them locally so I don't get hit with shipping. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

1190 is the basic part number shown in Ford parts catalog illustrations (see upper pic below).

The text section of the catalog is required to get the complete part number by adding the prefix and suffix to the basic part number.

This is the Ford part number, I don't have access to auto parts store part numbers (Edit: See post 7):

01Y-1190-A .. Front Wheel Grease Seal - 2 3/4" O.D. / Obsolete

1948/52 F1/F2/F3 / 1953/56 F100/250.

SOEBY MOTOR CO. in Walhalla ND has 2 = 701=549-3711.

COLLECTORS AUTO SUPPLY in Oroville WA shows 4 (800-414-4462), but I'd be surprised if they actually have them in stock.

BOWMAN SALES & SERVICE in Bowman ND has 5 = 701-523-3257.

FRIESEN FORD in Aurora NE has 6 = 402-694-3111.

 

The Chicago Rawhide number is CR 17599, NAPA and others can cross-reference that.

 

Ok, so I thought I was past this also. if I set the seal a bit beyond flush in ward, would it not allow the bearings to seat properly. I get the whole assembly on, washer and nut and tighten down, back off a fuzz and the hole wont aline for the cotter pin, can get about half the pin in sooooo?? options, solutions? figured I would ask before I go with standard and yard on it to make it work.

 

It will not stop the bearing from seating against the shoulder of the spindle.
The seal may rub against the inner bearing if it is pushed in too far.

You should assemble with washer and nut, spin the wheel in the normal direction as you slowly tighten the nut. If you feel any roughness to the rotation, then you have a problem with either one of the bearings or the seal is rubbing against the inner bearing.
...Terry
As you slowly tighten the nut, it will be obviously when it is too tight, the wheel will be hard to rotate. Then you would loosen the nut until the cotter pin will fit in, test by spinning the wheel. Keep loosening the nut, one opening at a time until the wheel spins ok and the cotter pin fits in ok.
When you think it is close, spinning ok both directions, grab the top and bottom of the wheel and pull and push to see if you can feel too much free-play.

 

Its so close, It spins fine, I can see daylight thru the cotter hole, Both sides same thing, I just didn't want to crank it down and destroy the bearing.


It seems like outside bearing is not seating completely in race, granted were talking less than an 8th.


Or maybe Im just been too careful. Ive got a #12 cresent and cranked on it.

 

oh and its all new and no free play.

 

If you cannot get the cotter pin thru the nut and hole in the spindle there could be a couple of reasons.
You can see thru the hole and nut slot? But not enough room for the cotter pin?
-If the nut will not turn in enough for the cotter pin to get thru, one of the cones may not be pressed far enough into the hub.
-Or you have a wrong part (bearing race, cone, washer, nut?)
-Sorry to ask....wrong size cotter pin?
...Terry

 

Terry


Don't be sorry to ask, Went back to the cotter key drawer, found a skinnier one, and all of the sudden happy hour! I could never find the beat up old ones that I pulled off many months a go, Guess bigger is not better.


One to the next challenge

 

So based on that parts picture, the front hub assembly is 1104
Is there anywhere you can buy those these days?


Kirk