Hey ya'll,

I have a 03’ diesel Excursion that needs work. It was supposed to be a 70k mile truck but now looking into it I found the passenger valve cover says 05’. I have not been able to read the serial number on the back of the block. Issues; EGR drive cycle won’t clear, I’m getting a code related possibly to stuck turbo vanes and the degas bottle pukes.

I am planning on doing the work myself to bulletproof this and yes I have done a tone of research. I am concerned that there will be surprises in not having all of the needed parts or needing specialty tools not ever referenced. This will be a cab on, in the driveway repair. Below I will lay out my plan and would like your expertise on additional parts needed, specialty tools, or certain hacks that will help the home mechanic. I do not plan at this time to include the coolant filter, oil filter, or FICM upgrade as those can rather simply be address at a later time.

-Oil/water cooler replaced with Bullet Proof Diesel Heavy Duty oil/air unit. #BPD-EOC-FOF-HEAVY-DUTY
-EGR replaced with Bullet Proof Diesel EGR (CARB, I’m in CA). #NT-EGRC-1
-Heads upgraded to ARP. #250-4202
-Ford head gasket. #4C3Z-6051-EB
-Rocker Carrier Gasket. #FO3C3Z-6584-AA
-Fuel injector O-rings. #3C3Z-9229-AA (Special tool needed?)
-Injector Pressure Regulator (IPR). #DD-9H529-A (Special tool needed?)
-Snap to Connect (STC) HPOP Fitting Update Kit. #4C3Z-9B246-F
-Blue Spring Kit. #3C3Z-9T517-AG (6E7Z-9C165-B ?? ) (International 1854267C94)
-Oil Rail Dummy Plug Kit. #W302908
-Stand Pipe Kit. #6E7Z-9A332-A (or #6E7Z-9A332-B?)
-Degas Bottle Cap. #9C3Z-8101-B / RS-527
-Updated Oil Drain Tube. #6C3Z-9T515-A
-Turbo Oil Feed Line. #3C3Z-9T516-A (International PN#1845287C96)
-Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve gaskets. #3C3Z-9P455-AB
-Banjo bolts 6.4L. #W302472 (decided against)
-Banjo washers 6.4L. #W303659 (decided against)
-Thermostat. #3C3Z-8575-AA
-Clean turbo vanes
-Clean EGR valve
-Evans waterless coolant (decided against for cost, availabilty)
Ford Premium Gold Coolant #VC-7-B
Ford Motorcraft Flush #VC-9

Is everything above needed?
What parts am I missing? Exhaust gaskets? Turbo gaskets?
Are there items duplicated in the kits?
Are the part numbers correct?
Who is the best source for the lowest price?
Is there anything else I should do while I am that deep into it?
What hacks will help?

This site has been a huge help since back in 2007 another Excursion owner proposed I sign up while we chatted at the fuel station. Thanks in advance for helping pay it forward.

 

I would double check to be sure you have the engine with the STC. I think most of the Ex's had early build carry over engines regardless if it's an 05, unless it's out of a truck perhaps...otherwise you might have the early build HPOP and no STC fitting. While you are at it be sure the ICP is not oily, if so it's good time to replace it and maybe the pigtail.

Is the ICP on the valve cover? This at least confirms the later style oil rail with DP's and SP's

6.4 banjo's is something for another thread. IMO from what I have read save your money for something else unless you are looking for something to add to your sig.

 

X 2........

Your a brave one to do the head gaskets and ARP studs, yourself. I know its achievable, just out of my comfort zone, or maybe I haven't done enough homework on the DYI part of that project.

Anyways, I have not heard of this Evans Waterless Coolant.

 

The ICP is in the passenger cover. I really want to find the serial of the engine so I can find the vin it was originally installed in. This way I could find its history, mileage.

I've been researching the 6.4 banjo bolts and will scrap that idea. Thanks for planting the seed for me to do more research into them.

The Evans Waterless is more designed for heavy equipment but the same type of stuff is used in race motors. Some tracks won't let you run glycol(?) based coolant.

 

Is there a specific reason you want to do the Evans waterless coolant? Pretty expensive, installation procedure is a pain, and the benefits are...?

 

Are you leaving the engine in or pulling it to do all this? Just asking because I've done 12 or so BPD upgrades to E and F 450's and always pull the engine not the cab. Being in new York oil pains rot and I seem to get bed plate leaks.

 

I would ditch the idea of using the waterless coolant and flush the system real good and switch to a red elc like fleetrite.

 

Cab on, engine in. Don't have the facilities or equipment to do it any other way.

On the Evans. Researched coolants for 9 straight hours reading 20, 60 page threads. What I found is that it seems to come down to personal preference, and proper maintenance. I'm not asking to start that discussion. For now, for cost and availability I will go with the factory recommended.

 

Which factory, Ford or International? I would choose the engine builder, personally.

 

^^^^^ watch that guy -- he's a troublemaker Go with the EC-1 rated coolant -- there IS no downside...

Here's some other things for your "nice to have" list:

upgrade to the 6.4 Trans Pan and internal filter, optional to dump the external one after since this one is so vastly superior. Pan p/n 8C3Z-7A194-B, Filter p/n 8C3Z-7A098-D. Gasket is reusable o-ring style. You'll need 9 qts of Mercon LV (some think only SP) since this is technically a "deep sump" pan (holds a whole qt to qt and a half more ).

You'll be draining fuel at some point so get the updated HFCM drain plug, p/n 6E7Z-9C082-A.

Why not cool the ol' Diff better? Ford thought it was a good idea... Here's p/n for '08+ aluminum diff cover: 8C3Z-4033-A, you'll need 5/16-18 x 1-1/4" long stainless steel bolts – 12 of them, I got the ones with the flanged serrated head. Also 3.5 Qts Mobil 1 75W 140 synth gear oil and a tube of sealant, some like permetex ultra grey or black, I've never had a leak with either.

 

So, it’s been a while. I had plenty of issues just getting the truck to pass smog, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...401-p132b.html. Took over two months but completed a lot of the items I was going to do anyway. Over the last six months (has it been that long) I’ve been saving money and gathering stuff. (I still have a broken tranny in my Expedition too.)

Things I have already done while working on the smog issue:
*IPR - screen kit
*STC HPOP - fitting update
*Blue Spring
*Degas Bottle Cap
*Oil Drain Tube - Updated
*Turbo Oil Feed Line - Updated
*EGR valve – cleaned and new gaskets
*BPD EGR - CA version
*Thermostat
*Cleaned turbo vanes - everything was frozen.
*Intake gaskets
*HFCM plug – update
*Fuel/Oil filters
*Coolant filter
*SCT Livewire, tow and street tunes
*Ford blue air filter
*Fan wiring repair
*High idle mod

Things I decided against:
*BPD oil/air cooler - $$$$
*Banjo bolts/washers 6.4l – wrong application
*Evans waterless coolant - $$ availability
*Ford Premium Gold Coolant – going Zerex EC-1
*Ford Motorcraft Flush #VC-9 – Went Fleetguard restore and restore plus.

Things I have ready to go: (all Ford unless noted)
*ARP studs
*Head gaskets
*Exhaust gaskets
*Rocker Carrier Gasket
*Fuel injector O-rings
*Oil Rail Dummy Plugs
*Stand Pipes
*Oil cooler
*Rotella synthetic
*Zerex EC-1
*EGT probe for SCT

I think I'm just about ready to start, just in time for the rainy season.

 

Check.

I'll have to look into that more later. I replaced the external filter and now get a slow leak.

Check.

Rig came with finned aluminium covers already.

 

Here's where I'm at today. Even though my deltas have been very good, I wanted to do a total clean and flush of the cooling system since I'll be changing the coolant type. I have a new oil cooler and didn't want to do the flush after the heads and possibly clog the new cooler. So I began the flush first using Restore and Restore+.

To make it easier (Oh, so much easier!) I purchased the Fumoto valves for the block. For the passenger side I got their SX side banjo style mount to improve access around the starter. Unfortunately they only come with short nipples. I asked if I could get one with a longer one and no dice, I asked if I could swap one from a standard valve and they said the construction tolerances prohibit it. So I bought one for each side and swapped the nipples. Easy peasy.

SX series on top with longer nipple already swapped.

Just remember to swap the fiber gasket with an o-ring.

Driver side Fumoto valve installed.

I permanetly attached a hose to the passenger side and ran it along with the block heater cord.

Passenger side Fumoto valve installed. Starter not yet installed.

I'll get a picture of it behind the starter at some point. And of course as my luck with this truck goes, I found the starter was missing a bolt when I went to take it out. And after getting it all back together the passenger side has a small coolant leak. When I adress it I think I will drill a small hole in the handle of the valve. That way I can make a tool to reach in with and easily open and close it.

 

This is all of it so far and it still is not running clear.

The first flushes after restore were very milky/cloudy.

After resore+ it came out very greenish.

I ran until almost clear but had to shut it down at 10pm.

Started up again after getting home from work and it came out very cloudy white.

You can see there is a dark film on the bottom that is in all the jugs.

I washed this out of my collection tubs.

Unfortunatley I had to shut it down again tonight before it all came out clear. Each of the jugs has a cloudy residue that hovers in the top of the jug about two inches from the bottom. When I pulled the radiator hose there is a soft white film on the inside top of the hose. I'm just wondering now if I should run both cleaners through again or flush till clear and call it good. I'm running without the thermostat in fyi.

 

Once you start the chemical process to dissolve the silicate it will continue loosening off the surfaces for a long time. IMO, the chemical bonds have been broken and some of the Restore is still absorbed. It's a time related process which is why overnight you see a higher contamination level. Its why some find they reclog the oil cooler after a "good flush" of a few hours.

However, it only takes a very small percentage of contaminant to make the water appear cloudy so it's a tough call when your good.

My personal view is either don't do the chemical flush at all, or do a chemical cleaning and good rinse, then do another chemical cleaning and double the rinse your comfortable with. In the past I did the double cleaning and it worked well, but not sure I would go through that again.