Well, a couple weekends ago, I finally bit the bullet and bought a project I could dive into - a '55 F100 (223 6).
The seller didn't seem to know anything at all about its history, and it's definitely in rough shape.
Taking a full inventory of all there is to do is overwhelming, so I'm in triage mode, attacking the most important things first.

I've never done a project like this, so I'm very thankful for a board like this full of people willing to share their hard-won knowledge.

Thanks!
- Bill


Done last weekend:

• fresh battery
• engine running! (drinking from a plastic jug serving as the temporary gas tank)
• brakes bled all around - brakes now work!
• missing oil bath filter sourced and installed
• new wires, plugs, and distributor cap
• rotted out running boards removed
• rusted fuel tank removed

Planned this weekend:

• install four new shocks
• remove old fuel line
• salvage straps from old fuel tank

On deck for next weekend:

• finish oil change (waiting on grain plug gasket and oil filter)
• install new fuel line
• install new fuel tank

she arrives...



plugs, wires, dist cap, and temporary plastic jug fuel tank



goodbye old fuel tank and running boards

 

Has anyone ever replaced a fuel line before with the cab on?
It seems like I can still access all the clips securing the line, but we will see.

I'm not even 100% sure I needed a new line, but based on the amount of rust in the tank, I figured I should replace the line as well...

 

Hey Wm,
Welcome Aboard! Nice looking truck! I'd replace the old fuel lines & the brake lines. Those steel brake
lines can look fine on the outside but be really rusted on the inside.

Good luck over there - Keep posting & we'll follow along.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Welcome Bill!
While I haven't worked on a 55, I can't imagine that cab removal is necessary to replace the fuel line. I agree with Ben, unless there is evidence that the brake and fuel lines are sound, replacing them is good practice. Further, I would carefully inspect the condition of the master cylinder, if you haven't already done so, to assure that it is up to the task.

Other stuff worth a good look would include the carb (if the tank and lines were iffy, the crud usually finds its way here) which may benefit from a cleaning and rebuild kit, the wheel cylinders (leaking isn't good), tires, steering, and electical wires/connections (especially grounds). The Shop Manual will show the lubrication points that would benefit from a fresh grease infusion.

What are your plans?

Enjoy the ride,

DW

 

Thanks Ben and DW.


Glad to hear the fuel line can be replaced with the cab in place. I thought the same, but good to get another vote of confidence.


I thought the brake lines looked sound (and the brakes work), but thanks for the advice - I'll replace all the lines like you suggest. Less than $200 for a full set of pre-bent lines from mid-fifty seems worth it.


Thanks also for the additional things to look out for. On to the to-do list they go. (and yes, thank God for that shop manual)


I don't have any definitive plans in mind. Job one is to get it road-worthy. Once I'm there, I'll allow myself to start thinking about what's next.

 

Driving first and deciding later is the best approach. These trucks do tend to tell you of their needs.

 

I must have your trucks cousin

 

Pennsylvania isn't known for rust free chassis. "Raytasch" on here told me he found a bunch of rust on his brake lines under the clamps holding it to the frame, even tho the lines themselves looked OK. Another vote for replacement. I'd wager most on here ended up replacing everything on their brakes, M/C, wheel cylinders, lines, and hoses especially. Brakes just aren't a place to skimp.

 

Ha! Agreed BJ!


Thanks Ross. I'll absolutely go after the brakes in greater depth, as soon as I get the new fuel tank installed and new fuel lines in.


Thanks!

 

2X Ben's comments
Just a FYI If one wheel cylinder pops you have nothing but your emergency brake. The master cylinder on these old trucks only has one resoirvoir. Metal lines (and rubber ones for that matter) are cheap enough to replace. Wheel cylinder kits (or wheel cylinders) aren't that expensive either. Old fuel turns to vanish and gums up everything. If you don't know when they were replaced change all your hoses & belts, change oil (engine, tranny & differential) and the antifreeze. Then you'll know none of that old stuff is going to give you problems. OBTW Take the old lines off and measure them. It's pretty easy to bend lines from the big box auto parts stores (under $75.00) and they'll come already flared with ends.
When I'd buy a old car for the kids to drive I'd always replace everything hydraulic on the brakes. Didn't care how fast they got there but wanted to be damn sure they could stop.

 

Well, I got three of four shocks installed today. I broke the lower stud on the fourth, so I'll need to order a new one.

I also cleaned up the gas tank sending unit, and hooked it up to make sure it was still working.






Finally, I went to work on the old fuel line. I got the bolts off (including that pesky one between the cab and the master cylinder mount). After moving the fuel line a bit, it seems like easiest way to get the old one out - and the new one in - is to partially uninstall the radiator to pass the line between the radiator mount and the cross member. I'll get to that tomorrow (unless someone has a different suggestion for removing the line).

 

Well, I finally figured out the fuel line could be more easily removed by first taking off the gravel pan. So, no more bumper, no more gravel pan, and the fuel line slides right out.

But wow, those were some of the worst bolts yet. I think I had to cut off 8 of them.

 

- New radiator hoses installed today, and the radiator flushed.
- "Rust encapsulater" on the four brackets for the running boards - seems to work pretty well.
- Disassembled the battery box, plan to build a new one from aluminum
- Installed the new steel fuel line
- Installed the new fuel tank

Getting the fitting on the fuel line to screw into on the fitting on the fuel tank was an absolute nightmare. I hope I don't have to do that again, and if I do, I will definitely investigate the possibility of flexible fuel line. Those steel lines were not fun...

Looking forward to testing vacuum pressure at the manifold tomorrow to make sure I can run a booster before I put in my order for brake parts.

 

Cool Effie, congrats on the new addition!

I'm curious to see how your vacuum test turns out - I'm thinking of doing the power brake booster upgrade on mine, too.

 

I tried earlier today, but I couldn't get a great seal between the tester and the manifold port. As a result, the truck ran rough and the vacuum reading on the tester was sporadic.

This evening I tried again with a little square of bike tire inner tube around the tester hose. Success! A steady 18 lbs of vacuum. Just what I was hoping to see.