there is white smoke or steam coming out of the dipstick

[beersy50]

There is white smoke or steam (can't tell wich it is) coming out of the dipstick. I had water in the oil so I pulled the oil cooler like you guys suggested, I found that one of the gaskets (where the cooler meets the Block) moved and was allowing the mixing. So i belive I fixed the problem, but when I pulled the dipstick when its running just to check if its mixing I get the steam or white smoke. This is the first time I've pulled the dipstick wile running so I don't know if this is normal or what? On a side note If I'm still getting water in the oil then its proably cavitation like you guys suggested, So, is it possible to sleve these blocks or is the motor a boat anchor know? Also what can be done to prevent cavitation?

[starmilt]

To prevent cavitation you need to test the water in the radiator and add sca's as needed, it is generally thought best to use only distilled water and antifreeze in your cooling system.
It can be a little blowby coming out of your dipstick, if it is steam it will be getting condensation at the top of the dipstick hole and be noticable.

[starmilt]

It probably is blow by but after you kill it and find condensation at the top of the dipstick or on your fillercap it will be steam, and not good.

Yes the block can be bored and sleeved but it isn't cheap and you still have 7 old cylinders that may be on the verge. In my opinion it is best to find a 6.9( probably cheaper tan the sleeve) and build it. The parts will be the same price and you will not have a sleeved block.

[beersy50]

First: Sorry about the second thread, my internet screwed up and I thought it didn't post so I started over.
Second: what is "sca"? Is distilled whater really neccisary, I've always used tap water, and why is tap water bad? I'll check the dipstick for condensation also. What causes the cavitation?

[starmilt]

Sca's are the needed additives to keep the ph numbers right in the water. modern antifreeze has some but you can get the test strips at any big truck dealer or lube shop and napa. I think napas brand is called napacool.

Distilled water has no impurities to build up in your cooling system.

[johnboggs21]

Distilled water is supposed to be better because it doesnt have the minerals in it that tap water does. I cant for the life of me remember what SCA stands for right now. Cavitation is caused by bubbles created from the flexing of the cylinder wall. The bubble collect around the cylinder and pop.(To the best of my understanding anyways) This slowly eats away at the cylinder wall. What the SCAs do is create a sacrificial layer around the cylinder to protect it. Yes these motors can be sleeved, but it doesnt seem to be recommended. Boring them out is bad, because the cylinder walls are too thin as it is.

[rupejosh]

Originally Posted by beersy50

First: Sorry about the second thread, my internet screwed up and I thought it didn't post so I started over.
Second: what is "sca"? Is distilled whater really neccisary, I've always used tap water, and why is tap water bad? I'll check the dipstick for condensation also. What causes the cavitation?

fixed it!!!! i merged the 1 reply in the other post into this one

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Originally Posted by johnboggs21

I cant for the life of me remember what SCA stands for right now.

Supplemental Coolant Additives.

[starmilt]

Originally Posted by rupejosh

fixed it!!!! i merged the 1 reply in the other post into this one

What do I have to do to change someones post, I could have me some fun with that.

[beersy50]

Well I worked on it some yesterday, and there was some condensation on the dipstick. But what I think is more scary I toped off the radiator and ran it for a wile with the cap off and was getting pretty steady large bubbles(this truck dosen't have an overflow) from in the radiator and the fluid level wasn't going down, so I don't think the system was just burping. Am I right that this is a sure sighn of cavitation?

[fuzzy1626]

Or maybe a headgasket.

[johnboggs21]

If it was cavitation then the level would go down.

[PLC7.3]

A sure sign of cavitation is when a cylinder hydrolocks and bends a rod or the engine explodes in pieces.


Hot Summer... Cool Diesel
By, Mark Wildman
Field Service Representative
International Truck and Engine Corporation

The mid-summer heat is intense across the country – which means the
biggest concern for your diesel truck, van or SUV is your cooling
system. There are several options for coolants on the market today,
and not all of them are good for your engine. This article addresses
the differences between conventional and extended life coolants, why
your diesel engine’s well-being depends on proper coolant
maintenance, and how to maintain your Power Stroke® Diesel engine so
it can perform at its best all summer long.
Types of Coolant
There are three basic types of coolant: Ethylene Glycol (EG), or
conventional coolant, is typically green; Long Life, or Extended
Life, Ethylene Glycol is typically yellow; and Propylene Glycol (PG)
is typically red and sometimes referred to as “non-toxic” coolant.
The term non-toxic can be confusing – all coolants are toxic, and
should not be ingested. “Non-toxic” is associated with PG-based
coolant because the United States Food and Drug Administration has
classified Propylene Glycol as Generally Regarded As Safe (GRAS) in
its pure form. The coolant manufacturer adds toxic chemicals to the
PG base. Because of its toxicity, keep all coolants away from
children and pets and dispose of all waste coolant properly.
PG coolant is not recommended for Power Stroke Diesel engines.
Because of its chemical makeup, PG coolants can cause damage to
aluminum parts, gasket materials and certain kinds of hoses. It also
has a lower boiling point than EG coolant, usually 10 F to 15 F
lower. While it may not sound like much, in a modern cooling system
with a high output engine a few degrees may make all the difference
in the world. Coolants that are methyl alcohol or methoxy
proponol-based should also never be used.
Extended Life Coolant
Extended life coolants are available for newer model diesel engines
(2002 model year). Extended life coolants provide a longer service
interval under normal conditions, because they don’t require the
addition of supplemental coolant additives (SCA). These new coolants
use advanced organic acid technology, which depletes much more
slowly than traditional coolant additives, to protect the engine.
Ford Motor Company has determined that either conventional Ethylene
Glycol (green colored) or Extended Life Ethylene Glycol (yellow
colored) coolant, such as Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant,
will meet the needs of the cooling system and will perform well in
extreme conditions as long as the vehicle is operated correctly.
PG-coolants such as Motorcraft Specialty Orange are not recommended
for the Power Stroke Diesel engine.
Extended Life EG coolants used with the 2002 model year F-Series
pickups and Excursions will allow for intervals of 100,000 miles or
five years, which ever occurs first, and will not need SCAs if they
are maintained properly. All 2001 model year and prior Power Stroke
Diesel engines are not compatible with extended life coolant. These
models had the proper amount of SCA added at the engine plant before
they were shipped, but will need to be maintained as described in
the “cavitation protection” section of this article.
If you have a 2002 model year engine, do not mix the Extended Life
Ethylene Glycol (yellow) with the conventional Ethylene Glycol
(green) under any circumstance. If you accidentally mix extended
life coolant with conventional coolant and the mixture exceeds 10
percent, the coolant must be maintained as a conventional system
using SCAs, or should be drained and flushed, then refilled with new
extended life coolant.
Conventional EG Coolant
The proper mix of coolant is important when using conventional green
coolants. If the coolant concentration is too high in a vehicle’s
cooling system, then silicates will separate and drop out of the
coolant. These silicates can form a paste that plugs heater cores,
radiator tubes and may lead to water pump failure if a large amount
of the silicate paste lodges between the seal lip and the seal’s
riding surface. Silicate paste can also plug small passages in the
engine, leading to damaging hot spots. Too low of a coolant
concentration, on the other hand, may lead to freezing, which can
also cause engine damage.
A proper coolant concentration is also needed to protect against
corrosion in the cooling system. If the concentration is too low,
rust and corrosion can take place inside the cooling system and lead
to water pump failure. Scale build up can lead to hot spots on
cylinder walls that can cause pistons to scuff or score. Rust and
corrosion can also cause erosion damage to the aluminum parts of the
engine and may result in expensive repairs.
The recommended coolant concentration is a 50/50 mix of coolant with
distilled water. The maximum acceptable coolant system concentration
is 60 percent in extreme conditions. In these conditions, follow the
chart on coolant container for the recommended water to coolant
ratio. The minimum concentration should not go below 40 percent.
Cavitation Protection and SCAs
SCAs provide cavitation protection for conventional green coolant.
Cavitation is erosion that occurs on the outside diameter of the
cylinder wall, and can happen if vapor bubbles form in the cooling
system and attach to the wall.
Every time the pistons move up and down, they rock in the bore,
causing the cylinder wall to vibrate. Vapor bubbles can form on the
outside of the cylinder wall as it moves inward, or away from the
coolant, creating a low-pressure area. When the cylinder wall moves
outward, or into the coolant, the pressure increases on the vapor
bubbles. After many cycles, vapor bubbles continue to form and the
pressure on the bubbles increases until, finally, a vapor bubble
collapses. When this happens, it creates a localized stress area of
more than 50,000 psi. The high pressure and heat created by the
implosion removes a small amount of cylinder wall material where the
vapor bubble was attached. Over time, the cylinder wall can continue
to erode, and eventually may form a pinhole in the wall that allows
coolant to enter the combustion chamber, leading to possible engine
failure.
Unlike diesel engines, gas engines do not need cavitation
protection. This is because diesel engines are more likely to be
used in heavy-duty applications and operate under higher loads for
longer periods of time. By nature, diesel engines often have
cylinder pressures greater than twice the cylinder pressure of a
gasoline engine. This combination of high load and high combustion
pressures creates the violent cylinder wall vibrations that lead to
cavitation. Most gasoline engines will not experience enough of this
kind of operation in its life to cause a failure. Although rare,
there have been occurrences where a gasoline engine did fail from
cavitation erosion.
You can protect your diesel engine from cavitation by adding the
proper amount of SCA to an EG cooling system. When used properly,
SCAs help neutralize acids and provide anti-foam protection as well
as prevent cavitation, scale and general corrosion. SCAs work to
prevent cavitation by forming a protective coating on the cooling
system surfaces. This coating will provide a barrier between the
cylinder wall and the vapor bubbles. The vapor bubble implosions
erode the SCA protective coating instead of the cylinder wall.
If your cooling system was originally equipped with green coolant,
you will periodically need to maintain your coolant’s additive
package. The higher the loads and the more miles, the more the SCA
is depleted from the system. Under normal service conditions, you
will need to add 8 to 10 ounces of SCA every 15,000 miles, as
identified in your Scheduled Maintenance Guide. Under severe service
(e.g. towing a trailer) add 16 ounces. We recommend Motorcraft?
Heavy Duty Cooling System Additive, part #FW-16 or equivalent. The
equivalent will be referred to as DCA4 and meets material
specification ESN-M99B169-A. At service intervals where the coolant
is replaced, two 16-ounce bottles of SCA should be added.
Too much SCA in your cooling system can cause water pump seal
failures. In most cases, if you follow the guidelines listed above,
your Power Stroke Diesel cooling system will be in good shape. If
there is a question about the level of SCA protection in the system,
you can use test strips to check the level of SCA in the cooling
system. A Fleetguard? test strip kit (DCA4 Test Strip Kit CC2602)
can be found at International® truck dealerships. The $40.00 kit
comes with 50 strips and expires in one year, so this may not be
practical for the individual user. Most medium and heavy-duty truck
shops will test your cooling system for a fee.
The test strip bottle has a scale that tells what level of
protection the system has by matching the colors that are on the
test strip. The strip has three pads that will turn color to
indicate the amount of SCA in the system as units per gallon, and
should read between 2 to 3 units for the Power Stroke Diesel. One
pad indicates the freeze point level, and the other two indicate the
SCA protection level by checking for nitrite and Molybdate. After
you add SCA, wait to retest the system until it has been completely
mixed, or driven for 30 continuous miles.
Maintenance Guidelines
To prevent unnecessary engine damage and keep your engine running in
top condition, coolant system testing should be performed at least
two times per year, preferably in the spring and fall. A
Refractometer ($80 to $200) is the most accurate method for checking
coolant temperature protection level. Refractometers work by
magnifying the light properties of the coolant and displaying the
results on a temperature scale.
A hydrometer is another common method for testing the cooling
system. It works by checking specific gravity of the coolant.
Hydrometers check the PH levels of the coolant and turn the strip to
a varying shade of green. This color indicator is matched to a
scale, indicating the level of temperature protection. If you use a
hydrometer, be sure that it is made for Ethylene Glycol coolant.
Recommendations and Tips

Depending on the type of coolant your cooling system originally
contained, you should use either Ford Premium EG (green) coolant
(P/N E2FZ-19549-AA Ford reference number VC-4-A), an equivalent that
meets specification ESE-M97B44-A, or Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant
meeting specification WSS-M97B44-D
Maintain a 50/50 mix using distilled water. Water that has minerals
in it (or hard water) should not be used. The minerals will lower
the boiling point and can increase corrosion in the system.
Under normal driving conditions, the green EG coolant should be
changed at 48 months or 50,000 miles for the first time, then every
36 months or 30,000 miles every time after. SCAs must be added and
maintained with this coolant.
If your cooling system is equipped with Motorcraft Premium Gold
Engine Coolant (reference number VC-7-A), your coolant should be
changed every 100,000 miles or 5 years, and no SCA added. Coolant
may need to be changed more frequently if vehicle is under harsh
driving conditions such as towing, heavy loads or operating in
extreme temperatures.

[87crewdually]

It sounds possibly head gasket. If you get your hands on an adapter for 10mm glow plug and put air pressure to each cylinder at top dead center you may be able to narrow it down to which cylinder/s. If your not willing/able to put the engine on TDC than you could remove the valve cover and rockers to ensure the valves are closed for proper testing. Which ever jug puts bubbles in your full radiator will end up being the culprit.
Even if cavitation is suspect this is a good test to point you in the right direction to find the problem.

[JHoffman93]

Cavitation Article
Here is a link that will answer all your questions about cavitation.