How to replace your Super Duty Ball Joints

[joe chevy]

if you have auto - yes manual - maybe

[71-4R3SONS]

Originally Posted by EricPero

Thanks for the info! I'll check it out! Hey, while I'm at it, I need some recommendations for tools [not just directed to you, but anyone that can chime in]:

-=please include price and web site=-

-Good snap ring pliers
-Ball joint kit [one that I can use for pressing the u-joints also]
-Bushing press tool [for axle shaft]
-Bearing puller
-Vacuum tester for auto lock hub testing
-Anything else?!?

Thanks again,
Eric

Here's a copy ot a post I did when I tackled my Ball Joints... maybe you missed it or didn't read ALL the previous 32 pages of posts...

The squeeking was driving me crazy!!! My X has 69K miles and I knew it was time to change the ball joints. I spent the last two days (15 hours) doing the job... time would have been much shorter if it wasn't for my OCD .

With the right tools, and the internet almost anything can be accomplished if you have the confidence to tackle the job!! .

I did not realize how bad the ball joints actually were. When I did the "test" I could move what wheels what seemed like at least 1/4 inch up & down... way too much play.

Here's some helpful hints and the links to into I used.

1.) Racerguy's thread was what gave me the confidence to do the job.

How to replace your Super Duty Ball Joints - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts F

...and yes, I read each and every post.


2.) This write up was the BEST... lots of pics and info.

2004 F250 Ball Joint Replacement


3.) Another "how to"...

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com


4.) Mercury45 did a write up too...

http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/ball.pdf


5.) SUPERDUTYPSD did a write up worth reading too...

Ball Joint Replacement Write-Up For Ford F250 F350 Superduty

6.) And finally, Guzzle's needle bearing lube site was copied "just in case".

Guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page


7.) Here's where I got the knuckle seal driver (a decent price-$60) It's steel and it worked like a charm.

OTC 6695 Vacuum Seal Installer OTC6695


8.) Some good answers to questions that reinforced info from other sites...

Tight Ball Joints? - Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com


I got my "rental" tools from Advance Auto. The Ball Joint kit is the heavy duty type with a retail value of $169... it had all the parts needed... it was extra-heavy duty. I got the 2 / 3 Clawed puller too... I used the 3 inch and 2 claws for the tie-rod ends and the 3 clawed 6 inch parts to pull the hubs. GET THIS... without it, I know it would have been a itch to get them off.

To pound off the knuckle I went to Autozone and got the #27021 Pitman Arm Puller. It was wide enough and took the punishment of my 8 pound BFH like a trooper. This tool was a "free rental" too.

I got my Moog greaseable Ball joints here:

Powerstrokeshop.com

The kit does not include the autohub O-rings so I went to my local FoMoGuy and got them for 12 bucks.

I went to Sears and got the 1 1/8 socket for the upper and got the 33mm socket for the lower nut at Autozone... BTW... the Moogs upper and lower nuts are both 33mm.

While I was at Sears I picked up their biggest 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and their best snap-ring plyers. (both were around 26 bucks each).

You can never have enough tools in the tool cabinet!!!

Of course... I have a big air-compressor and air tools (a must to use the ball-joint press.)

So... right now I am basking in an overwhelming glow of self accomplishment... the most important thing was I saved at least one travel hockey (Mite A / son Bryant) season's fees doing it myself.











MY MODS

[NormEckhardt]

Hello,
I'm new to FTE and have a question about the ball joints on a 04 F-250 SD. Should the ball joints be wearing out in 10,000 miles? The last set wore out on the passenger side in that many miles. I bought my truck in 04 with the snow plow package (leaf springs front and rear) and Western 8 1/2' V-Plow which weighs about 850+ lbs. (Could this be the problem?)

Well basically, I have had to replace them three times in 80,000 miles. I see some on the forum are replacing theirs at 100,000+ miles. (For the first time). I Went through my regular warranty and then an extended warranty to 70,000 miles
I take it that this is not normal.

Does anyone have any ideas or comments. Thanks in advance!

[1975StroppeBaja]

Hmm... wearing out at 10k miles sounds a little soon to me. Not sure how much abuse it has been getting while plowing though...? That could be part of it.

I replaced mine last spring just before 80k miles.

What brand of ball joints have you been replacing them with? Hopefully some high quality greasable units (Moog, NAPA, just recently OEMs, and a few other brands)

BTW, all 4x4 SD's in 2004 (and back to 1999) had leaf springs front & rear. Sorry in advance if you already knew that but your post read like you thought that was part of the snow plow package.

[brian42]

Originally Posted by NormEckhardt

Hello,
I'm new to FTE and have a question about the ball joints on a 04 F-250 SD. Should the ball joints be wearing out in 10,000 miles? The last set wore out on the passenger side in that many miles. I bought my truck in 04 with the snow plow package (leaf springs front and rear) and Western 8 1/2' V-Plow which weighs about 850+ lbs. (Could this be the problem?)

Well basically, I have had to replace them three times in 80,000 miles. I see some on the forum are replacing theirs at 100,000+ miles. (For the first time). I Went through my regular warranty and then an extended warranty to 70,000 miles
I take it that this is not normal.

Does anyone have any ideas or comments. Thanks in advance!

I have read of people replacing ball joints at 10K. It will depend on a lot of variables: what ball joints you use, lift, tires/wheels (geometry/loading shift), weather, accessories (i.e. plow) and use (what you use the truck for and how you drive it).

I just replaced my ball joints (for the first time) at 180K, but my truck is bone stock and I don't drive like Mario Andretti (I got that out of my system with the F-150 I had ).

As for any recommendations, make sure you get your ball joints replaced by a reputable establishment (if you don't do it yourself) and use good quality, greasable joints (I used Moog).

The more you load up/change your front end (plow, lift, wheel spacers), you change the design load bearing characteristics of the vehicle. The more you deviate from the original design intent of Ford, the shorter the life of the components in general.

Just my .02

[MightyThor]

I am doing a whole front diff rebuild and this thread is the best! I wanted to add just a couple of tips that have worked for me. When pulling the carrier out, it was a one man job so I looped a nylon strap through the carrier and tied it off to the sway bar so that the carrier would not fall on the ground. Then a second ratchet strap was hooked to the carrier and to the front bumper. a few pulls on the ratchet and the carrier swung right out, hanging by the loop off the sway bar. Lowered it by loosening the two straps.

My axle tubes are really bad with rust so I decided to clean them and paint the insides to prevent any more rust. To get the rust out I cut down a round 3M paint remover that you can get at any hardware store. Chucked it up in a drill bit extension and ran it down the axle tubes with my drill.
http://326hmg.bay.livefilestore.com/...h/DSCF7209.JPG


After the rust was mostly removed I treated the inside with OSPHO rust converter by swabbing it down the tube with a paint roller on a threaded rod.
http://326hmg.bay.livefilestore.com/...c/DSCF7210.JPG

I will swab paint down the tube with the same system. Hopefully that will keep the insides of the axle tubes from rusting quite so much.