The way you have it is the way I'd do it unless I needed to take the axle off, then I would have placed them as in your second picture. To take it down I'd likely do it in a 2 phase step down process unless I had a tall enough jack:
1. Jack up one side under the frame just behind the rear spring hanger. Use a 18" 4x4 block between frame and jack if you need more jack height. Lower that side jack stand extension and lower that side down onto the shortened JS. Do the same on the other side.
2. Go back and jack the first side and remove the JS. Lower it to the ground. Repeat on other side.
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!
2003 GSL, 2005 HSL National Champion
1956 F100 Panel support/tow vehicle
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
2002 Celica GT 2003 GSL National Champion retired to daily driving duties
Just for info, I've found a variation on jack stands--I'm sure many of you know about this, but maybe some don't. I made these large "pedestal" type wooden supports so as to keep the wheels on the truck and get it up in the air. Now of course if I'm working on the wheels/brakes or whatever etc this is not a good choice, but when useable I like this approach better. I feel safer with the tires/wheels on the truck etc, in case it were to "fall" etc or something similarly catastrophic, and plus the truck is up "higher off the ground". Often an advantage/sometimes a disadvantage I'll let you decide when etc.
I made these out of some 6"x6" wooden posts and then "sandwiched" them together with a sheet of plywood on both the top and bottom. I put a bunch of nails through the plywood top and bottom. That's what holds the things together. And I have two different sizes as maybe you can see. I use the "longer" ones in the rear where I sometimes have bigger tires/wheels--hot rodder that I sometimes am. They work great for me.
But one critical thing be CERTAIN to nail or? a 2"x4" piece across the top of each pedestal--as you can probably see. Its really easy for your truck to just "roll off" these things if you don't. So be certain to do that. I configure them such that some of the pedestals prevent a forward "roll" and some a rearward.
When I first built these things I didn't have the 2"x4" pieces, and the first day my 58 rolled off BIG AND FAST. I wasn't under it but walking behind it etc--it actually happened twice!! the same day. After that I made these 2x4 pieces. Anyway it came so quick and suddenly down and off the pedestals that I was trying to protect myself as it came at me--quite suddenly-yes I was surprised--and as I pushed against it - it just slid my standing torso right back against the garage door. I was pinned there for a couple minutes as I laughed and tried to figure an escape route. I was able to move it enough with my arm strength to squeeze out the side.
In case you're wondering. "Christine" was earlier in the building when she last attacked me--before I had E brake connected or even had a drive shaft--no drive shaft--no Park in automatic etc.
If you are jacking the truck up to get it on the blocks, why not put a 2x4 on both ends to prevent roll off forwards or back? If I need to raise a vehicle without removing the wheels (and it's drivable...) such as to change the oil, I use a set of HD plastic drive up ramps. They are light weight and have longer ramp sections than the metal ones, so they work better with vehicles with low ground clearance.
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!
2003 GSL, 2005 HSL National Champion
1956 F100 Panel support/tow vehicle
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
2002 Celica GT 2003 GSL National Champion retired to daily driving duties
Hey Guys and Gals, Listen to Julie. She knows what she is talking about. I lost my best friend when his motorhome crushed him. Bottle type jack shifted. Enough said. Be safe. I miss my friend.
AXracer said "If you are jacking the truck up to get it on the blocks, why not put a 2x4 on both ends to prevent roll off forwards or back?
Racer maybe you need to reread my posts. I'm pretty sure I covered that and also supplied a photo that shows the 2x4's in place. What I was saying was that I didn't have the 2x4's in the beginning, but shortly after added them etc.
And yes for the sure the plastic ramps are good, I've got them too and I use them sometimes when its appropriate, but I use these when I want all corners up in the air. Generally speaking the plastic ramps are not advertized for that purpose. In fact the ones I'm using --only a pair of them-specifically advise to only have two wheels on the ramps at any time.
I use the much stronger wooden pedestal to hold a heavy truck for weeks at a time when I'm doing build up issues etc--for me its higher than my plastic ramps and I think stronger.
Racer maybe you need to reread my posts. I'm pretty sure I covered that and also supplied a photo that shows the 2x4's in place. What I was saying was that I didn't have the 2x4's in the beginning, but shortly after added them etc.
I use the much stronger wooden pedestal to hold a heavy truck for weeks at a time when I'm doing build up issues etc--for me its higher than my plastic ramps and I think stronger.
Good luck Tom
I saw the pic with 1 2x4 at one end of each block you added after your truck rolled off them, but those only prevent the truck from rolling off in one direction. What I was saying is why not add 2 2x4s to each block, one at each end to prevent the truck from rolling off the front or back of the blocks?
Note that I said I only use my plastic ramps when I want to raise the vehicle up with the wheels on it for a short time. I actually have my truck sitting on 4 of the steel wheeled dollys at the moment so I can move it around the garage in any direction, but I did have it sitting on the plastic ramps for a few months in the backyard before I had the garage built without any ill effects. You could use 4 of the plastic ramps if you so desired by mjacking the vehicle up and sliding the ramps under the wheels, much like you do with your blocks. They just don't want you trying to drive up onto 4 blocks at the same time. I like the plastic ramps not only because I don't need to use a jack if I'm only raising two wheels, but also because they are very durable and light weight, I can easily hang them on a nail on the wall where they are out of the way when not using them.
Your wood blocks are a fine alternative for long term use, especially if you can scrounge the 6x6 cutoffs. I made something similar once by arranging 3 2x8's on edge spaced 1 2x apart on plywood and capping it and one end with another piece of plywood (actually I made mine as ramps using longer 2x8s with a section cut at an angle and capped with ply as well). It was much easier to scrounge 2x8 cutoffs at a house construction site for free than 6x6's and I also scrounged the ply cutoffs at the same time, and the guys even cut everything and nailed it together for me with their nail guns when I gave each one a cold soda.
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!
2003 GSL, 2005 HSL National Champion
1956 F100 Panel support/tow vehicle
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
2002 Celica GT 2003 GSL National Champion retired to daily driving duties
Why not put 2 of the blocks such that the 2x4's prevent it from rolling back and 2 of the blocks that prevent it from rolling forward?
That's what I said in the post. And that's what I do. I said words to the effect that "one should configure the pedestals such that some prevent rolling forward and some from rolling rearward". But for sure if someone wants to put (2) 2x4's on each pedestal they can if that's what the want.
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