Josh's 79 F150

[BigSix1]

Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad Thanks BigSix1 The welder is a Miller 210. I love it! I can weld thin sheet metal up to 1/2" plate steel As for clear coat. It is easier than single stage. you lay down the color first. I as many coast as you need to cover. And it has about a 10 min flash time as opposed to 30 min w enamal. As for the clear.... you just put it on like another coat of paint. Everyone has their own preference on how to do it but i do it in two coats. One light , tack coat . then one heavy second coat to make it smooth. You're welcome, man! Thanks for posting the thread. Yeah--the Millermatic 210 looks awesome! I was told that my 150 was built on the same, basic architecture, that was then upgraded to the 175 and then the 210--your pic looks very much like my 150. My 150 could use a little more "oomph," but I'm using it on a 100' extension cord I made (for now--IIRC, it's 10 ga., stranded) and I'm hoping when I make up a shorter cord that will give it a "boost." I'm probably experiencing some voltage drop at 100+ feet. So...the paint designed for a clear coat you can put down in as many, lighter coats as necessary, to cover? That sounds good to me, as my fear is making RUNS. (I think you left out an "n", above, but I believe I got your meaning). So, you get the color on good enough, waiting only 10 minutes between (thin) coats, and then just one or two coats of clear? (I like to do a tack coat first, too, then go for the gloss, rather than all-in-one coat, when I spray enamel). It does sound a little less intimidating, when you put it that way. How "runny" is the clear coat? Any worse than regular paint? Better? Are th runs harder to see in clearcoat than in paint? Can you sand the runs out, as with paint, and then compound it back to shinytown? Thanks again! Big Six

[Diesel_Brad]

Originally Posted by BigSix1

You're welcome, man! Thanks for posting the thread.

Yeah--the Millermatic 210 looks awesome! I was told that my 150 was built on the same, basic architecture, that was then upgraded to the 175 and then the 210--your pic looks very much like my 150. My 150 could use a little more "oomph," but I'm using it on a 100' extension cord I made (for now--IIRC, it's 10 ga., stranded) and I'm hoping when I make up a shorter cord that will give it a "boost." I'm probably experiencing some voltage drop at 100+ feet.

So...the paint designed for a clear coat you can put down in as many, lighter coats as necessary, to cover? That sounds good to me, as my fear is making RUNS. (I think you left out an "n", above, but I believe I got your meaning).

So, you get the color on good enough, waiting only 10 minutes between (thin) coats, and then just one or two coats of clear? (I like to do a tack coat first, too, then go for the gloss, rather than all-in-one coat, when I spray enamel). It does sound a little less intimidating, when you put it that way.

How "runny" is the clear coat? Any worse than regular paint? Better? Are th runs harder to see in clearcoat than in paint? Can you sand the runs out, as with paint, and then compound it back to shinytown?

Thanks again!

Big Six

The clear can be runny, but if you use the thinner for the temp you are spraying you will be fine. It takes practice as to what the finish looks like for correct orange peal or a run.

As for runs, sanding them out can be simple or if you have a major run, you may sand it out so it is no longer felt but it will be like a shadow if it is a heavy run

[Countrywfo]

lookin good man, sharp lookin ride

[FreemansF150]

Diesel_Brad,

I noticed that you were using one of the pot style sandblasters in the page 1 pics. How does it work for you on body panels? I am looking at the 10 gal one at Harbor Freight so that I can blast the frame and bed on my 79.

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

John

[Diesel_Brad]

I replaced it w one of these Pressure Blaster Model 110 from EASTWOOD. I didn't pay that price. I w am lucky enough to live an hour from them and they had a scratch/dent special i got for $100. And for any large jobs you need BIG compressor. I have a DEVIBLIS 7hp 80gal tank that could not keep up w the little sand blaster. I now have a 4 cyl gas powered tow behind compressor to do my sand blasting. For small jobs or spot blasting a pot blaster and an electric compressor is fine, but if you want to do a frame, complete truck or a large job. Go get a tow behind and at least 100lb pot

[benmoderow]

Hey brad, I'm also curious to know how you stripped your body panels? Everyone says you can't sand blast them because they will warp, but I would really like to do it myself to save some $$. Trucks lookin sweet!

[Diesel_Brad]

I stripped the panels by sanding because i did not have the bigger pot and compressor. It took forever. I stripped the bed by sand blasting, but i used only 60psi and hit it at a 45*. No warped panels or anything. It is when someone uses 120 psi and hits it a 90*

[muladesigns1]

great progress! very good quality work as well (thats getting harder to come by nowadays)
If you ever find your way in Az look me up and you got a job at my shop!

[Diesel_Brad]

Originally Posted by muladesigns1

great progress! very good quality work as well (thats getting harder to come by nowadays)
If you ever find your way in Az look me up and you got a job at my shop!

Thanks! that means a lot. There are a bunch of morons over on the 87-96 forum talking about a $50 paint job. I gave them hell , and said that is just a hack way to do things and they say i have too much time and money to do things the way i do. I just say " do it right or not at all"

[muladesigns1]

I could'nt agree more! theres nothing worst then seing someone hacking up and spray bomb painting an otherwise really cool vehicle. especially when these trucks are rising in value.