I am having some clutch adjustment issues after I did the T5 conversion on my 1949 F1 Flathead V8. There is not enough pedal travel to fully engage the clutch when the engine is running, I have replaced the bushings for the clutch pedal, the bushings for the clutch linkage and replaced all the worn pins in the linkage assembly. The clutch pedal bottoms out on the floor before the clutch fully engages. It seems like there is not enough pedal travel to engage the pressure plate. I am using the original clutch shaft, fork and throwout bearing assembly that is supposed to work with the t5 conversion package. I am considering alternatives like hydraulic clutch or an after market clutch pedal assembly but I would like to keep the original pedals.
I think you mean "disengages", but I understand what you mean. Are you using a diaphragm pressure plate or the stock Long style? If it's the diaphragm, I have had similar issues with those. It improved after about 500 miles, I think it requires more travel than the linkage can provide when the disc is new.
If you still have the Long, I wonder if the fingers are set properly? They are adjustable and may just be too far towards the flywheel. As the disc wears in, the fingers will move backwards, so your problem may go away.
How do you like the T5, overall? Did you change the rear axle gear ratio too?
Sorry I did mean disengage, The pressure plate is new and it is the long type. I can't get it into gear at all. If I clamp a long crescent wrench to the clutch fork I can manually turn it enough to make the clutch work. There doesn't seem to be enough clutch pedal travel to disengage the tranny.
I have installed a 9" Ford rear end. I'll let you know how it works out if I can get the clutch figured out firsyt.
In that case I think you have slop in your linkage. It adds up. Or you may have too much free play to begin with. I have mine set where the release bearing is just barely touching the fingers with the pedal all the way up. When I press on the pedal, the slack in the pins and linkages takes up about 1/2" of pedal trouble, before it really starts releasing.
I've replaced all the linkage with rod ends and replaced the bushings with bearings and there is still not enough pedal throw to disengage clutch.
I'm waiting for a new clutch disk from Cornhusker to see if that will make a difference. I am also told that the flywheel bolts sometimes interfer with the clutck disk and that relieving them may allow some gain at the pedal.
I haven't heard of the boltheads hitting the disc unless the disc is in backwards. I definitely would NOT grind on the bolt heads!!
I'd like to see how you modified the linkage, it sounds interesting. You didn't change the length of any levers, did you? (which would change the throw)
What I meant is, changing the length of a lever (not a link), by moving the pivot point further from or closer to the pedal pivot. That changes the amount of movement in the linkage, for a given amount of pedal movement.
It sounds like your refering to the throwout fork, I have the internal shaft type fork that turns rather than pivots. ther is no way to convert the current assembly without changing transmission adapters. The clutch pedal can't be modified either because it is a casting. I may be able to fabricate an extension on the end of the pedal assembly where the linkage attaches to increase the length of throw. I'll try that if the new clutch disc I ordered doesn't work.
Without seeing it, I couldn't be sure you didn't modify the pedal. So, there is no reason your setup shouldn't work as-is. Did you lube the splines on the disc and shaft? What type of pilot bearing/bushing are you using? I have had needle bearing type pilots get damaged while sticking the trans into the clutch, where the end of the input shaft dented the race of the pilot, and it wouldn't roll any more. It behaved just as you describe.
You should be able to drop the trans out and leave the clutch intact. With your disc alignment tool stuck in the clutch, have someone operate the clutch and see what's going on. With the trans out, the throwout bearing won't have a guide, so be careful!
PS -- lots of chatter on the various forums about clutch shops not knowing how to properly set up a Long clutch, don't rule that out, especially if it's a rebuilt unit.
The pedal is OEM, I replaced the bushings and it is as tight as new.
I also replaced the ball and bushing that connects the linkage from the tranny to the frame with a pillow bearing and a 1/2" rod. The 1/2" rod fits nicely into the original shaft.
There is no play at all in this joint.
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