Yes, my 4 steel lines came on the driver's side of the doghouse down, ran in parallel, about 1" from each other in brackets attached to the frame. Although I cut them in several placed it was not easy to remove them.

If I recall correctly, A/C lines were steel all the way to the evaporator, while steel lines connected to rubber-crimped lines at the heater core. These crimps were also rusted. The electrical connections to the blower were also corroded.

I had to remove the seat to remove the access panel, and remove things from the bottom. I ended up replacing the evaporator and heater core for another $ 150.

For coolant lines, I used regular radiator hose, sold by the foot at Auto parts store. For A/C lines I purchased steel-braided rubber A/C lines on the internet with flare / spring loaded connectors and I also crimped some fittings to connect them to the engine-bay lines. I learned the hard way (leak) -- the key to running A/C lines was to keep them fixed and not move around at the joints. I made several brackets (hand-bent sheet-metal strips) to keep the lines fixed. You could use steel refrigerant lines and use a pipe-bender to route them. I decided against since I felt that rubber was easier to install.

If you go to autopartswarehouse.com you will see the specs for the connectors to both evaporator and heater core.

I bought 2-3 crimpers as well. Plus leak detectors, goggles, etc.

After I ran the lines, I stuffed / covered them with fiberglass and installed a hat-shaped sheetmetal trough, about 5-6" wide and about 1.5-2" high, screwed to the underside, caulked around it, and sprayed undercoating. I drilled miniscule holes every 2 or 3 feet for weeping out any condensation. Although lines were mostly rubber, they are long and I felt that heat loss was too much for my liking, plus protection from road debris.