View Single Post
  #7  
Old 02-17-2010, 09:29 AM
gddyup's Avatar
gddyup
gddyup is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The cam kits need tobe installed in order to adjust caster/camber by allowing the movement of the control arm. From the factory the bolts in the control arm have "fixed" cams that do not allow adjustment. I haven't done an alignment in quite a few years but I've installed at least 100 of these types of kits in Ford SUVs way back when. I haven't looked specifically at the Expys so I can't hazard a guess as to how difficult they are to install. It's a simple matter of removing the factory bolts an installing the new bolts with the cams. Nothing all that fancy but I do recall SUVs like the Explorer's being a real pain in the *** on the D/S trying to get them installed. All depends on what's around the bolt's and how much access you have. I would assume the Expy's would have enough room to make it a driveway job if you have the tools.

$200 doesn't sound all that bad if parts/labor are included. I think the NAPA kits we use to use were in the $50 a side range. If the Expy's are easy swaps, $100 may be a little much on the labor side. If the Expys are like the older Exploders.... it's a steal!

This is basically what the cam kit looks like...



Ben, your 93 had a cam that installed on the upper control arm where the upper ball joint was bolted in if I recall. The ball joint stud sat in a "collar" that went through the upper control arm. To adjust caster/camber, you had to remove and replace the collar with an aftermarket piece that allowed the control arm to be adjusted. You did that by turning the new collar, or cam, and that would give you a finite amount of adjustment. There are dozens of cams for those types of installs and you had to figure out which one would get you back in spec based on the intial measurements you got from the alignment machine. The cams for a 93 Bronco would look similar to the one on the right. The left is the stocker with a fixed position. The aftermarket adjustable ones had the stud hole typically off-center, tilted, or both in some cases. It was the position of the hole and it's tilt that allowed for adjustment. If you were lucky, the stock cam had it's measurements still visible on it so that you could input them into the computer and get a better idea of what to replace it with to get your desired alignment results. Up here in NH with our winters, that hardly ever happened. Here's a pic...