The next pic is the module on the bench opened up(it is the 350s and 4 post the Ex is 7 and orignal) with the back off.There are the screws under the top cover 4 or 7 of them #10 torx and 8 on back of the case #20 torx to remove.Once open the small board is the one you are after.The black covers on the resistors have to come off and then the 7 screws on the board are all accessable.There is yellow goo on the board and it covers some screws,I cut through it with a scalple and had no trouble with the screws,all of them #20 torx.From there it is a matter of pulling out the board and flipping it over to see the troublesome joints.
The next pic has the best photo I could manage of the cracked joints.Both rows under the glass should be reflowed and then soldered or the solder replaced.The last one was the resoldered board showing one half of the joints that need work.once done put it back together and in test it out and take it for a spin.
I suspect there are alot of trucks that eat injectors or have odd running issues that have underlying FICM voltage/solder, it is well worth the time to have a look at voltage wise IMHO.Both of my trucks had very noticeable positive results from my efforts.I have to stop drinking beer when composing these kind of posts,forgive the spelling and grammer LOL.Cheers