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Old 03-17-2009, 03:02 PM
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northphoenix
northphoenix is offline
5th Wheeling
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
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Thanks - the truck is fixed. It was the fuel pump.

Here's my lessons learned:

- I chose to do the "remove the bed" method in a modified way, i took out the 6 bolts in the bed, and a tie down (located on frame by the tire on drivers side)
- i removed the screws by the gas tank filler , but it wasnt necessary since the hose / neck never pulled back , i didnt remove tailights or wiring
- I jacked up the driver side of the bed using a floor jack and a 2x4 and inserted 3 2x4's flat under the bed ath the center rest and forward by the cab and then set it back down (seems like the center was the only support point with a load)
- At this point you could sit under the bed and see the top of the tank and connectors for removal
- I found my rockauto ac delco replacement pump had a different top that wouldnt screw down under the plastic retainign cap the old pump used - it did have the same guts dangling below... so i had to carefully transfer hoses, wiring and components to the old pump top

Ok - here are some other miscelaneous notes:
- by the fuel cutoff switch passenger side floor board - the connector has 3 wires, the two fatter gauge pass power to the pump - the other is an indicator to the dash that the switch is tripped.
- When measuring with a dvom, i have 6 volts there with key in ignition on and 12v when cranking. This is a little contradictory to the ford electrical manual which shows the speed resistor downstream from the switch but as an engineer my real world test tells me its before the switch.
- Seems like this location is a great spot for a kill switch to help protect the ride
- when the pump seats in a "socket" int the tank, the v part of the cylinder is facing you - tabs that latch are left and right (forward/rear of truck)


Oh yeah - dont forget to plug the pump connector back in for it to work dont ask

have pics i need to post soon.