#7  
Old 02-02-2009, 12:10 AM
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BarnieTrk
BarnieTrk is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Stanton, Michigan, USA
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Originally Posted by drb1956
A lot of shops put on new springs when you have higher mileage, but that's where it gets pricey-see if they can test the old springs..If they are a good head shop they have the tools to do this-and tell them to only replace "really worn" valves($6-10 apiece),and to not "three angle" the valves(boosts compression, but costly), and to clean the seats, and only rework the ones with excessive wear(pitting/scarring from old valve)-tell them you want a "low buck" valve job, and explain in detail want you want, and also ask them if they "throw in" a pressure check(water jackets) as part of the service...Your parts list is good but, throw in upper and lower radiator hoses, and check out heater hoses while you're in there, and replace any accessorial "V-belts"(if any), along with the serpentine.. Good Luck!!!
Good Point, DRB..... I will ask the head shop to simply shim the springs if they need a little 'tightening up' rather than replacement. Also a good point on a standard 'low buck' valve job instead of the more expensive 3-angle job. Radiator & heater hoses would likely also be smart. In fact, this may even be the time to replace the radiator too. No other belts but the sepentine one.


Originally Posted by Greywolf
Get a new Radiator cap too - and look all around for leaks and drips.
But I will SPECIFICALLY NOTE one place to worry about a leak that you will have a hella time to get at once the head is back on:

There is a steel line that runs down the passenger side of the head to the back and around the back to a manifold heater connection (it heats the floor of the intake manifold). It is joined to the manifold by a short length of rubber tubing, about two inches long. THAT piece of tubing needs to be brand new when you put it back together.

Trust me....
10-4, Graywolf........ Thanks!


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BarnieTrk