Th1567, you pretty much nailed it all...but FIRST, Welcome to FTE...as you see from the previous post theres a TON of great guys on here, old and young and in between who are a tremendous wealth of info...

First basic rule... THE ONLY STUPID QUESTION IS THE ONE YOU DONT ASK...Dont feel like you are asking an easy question or something that should be obvious...when you first get a car/truck its one big learning curve...dont expect perfection from yourself on all things the first time...BUT, when you do nail something ...pat yourself on the back, make mental notes and carry on.
As for the front drum removal...Th1567...where in the world were you 20-25 yrs ago when I had my first car...I spent about 3 hours beating the tar outta the fronts until I discovered the lil cap and cotter pin and nut and viola...its in my hand....Dad didnt help me either...and I had asked too...lol...guess he wanted me to figure it out for myself..
Anyway, since it hasnt been run in a long while, one thing I would do before starting it...pull the plugs...note their condition...wet and oily...not a good sign if alot are like the...dry plugs...great sign...ideal plugs should be a tannish colored pocelain...prolly wont be...gray/black is carbon...clean and put back in and regap...get one of the wire type plug gappers...2 bucks at the most...When pulling the plugs...use a plug socket!!! a good plug socket will have a rubber insert in it to cushion the plug...they are glass and will break...get a straight bite on the plug and undo it...before doing so, if theres a lot of crud or whatnot around plugs after the wire is pulled off...blast the area with air...dirt is a bad thing for inside engine as Im sure you know. When doing the plugs, there should be a firing order cast int the intake manifold...thats a good thing to clean up pretty like...also, undo the plug wires and service one at a time so the firing order doesnt get messed up...
pop the cap off(theres 2 spring clips 180 of each other) look at inside of cap...if theres lotta marking on the areas of the cap where the rotor fires off from...it would most likely be greenish due to sitting...if its a grayish color, thats not too bad...if the cap inside is the greenish color on the contacts, replace the cap...again, when doing plug wire replacement on the cap do them one at a time. If the cap is good but rotor end is all rusty or crusty looking...replace it...most tune up kits come with cap/rotor/condensor/points at least...condensor is the lil round thing under the rotor that connects to the points.
When it comes to adding an inline filter, if the truck has its original metal line from fuel pump to carb, theres 2 ways to do it...get 2 shorts pieces of tubing(3/8" or 5/16") and put on either end, bridge the gap with the rubber fuel line and the fuel filter. Cutting the line with a hacksaw could get shavings into the carb...if you or your friend has a small tubing cutter, great...a lil one is maybe 5 bucks and easily fits in palm of your hand.
Oil...dump that crud...I would jack it up to get to drain plug and put a stand under it just in case for safety...take that puppy out and let that stuff drain its heart out...after that I would go back to messing with other stuff...giving it LOTS of time to drain. Oil should be black as tar, if its creamy brown...like a coffee with cream in it...that a bad sign...water in the oil...that should be able to be seen by pulling the dipstick.
Radiator and coolant...if you dont see water at the top when you take the cap off...undo the petcock at the bottom of the radiator...it sticks out about 3/4 of an inch...get a pair of pliers to just break it free...then undo slowly to see what, if anything come out...if its green...thats great...red...not good...that is rust...if its empty, that I would take as a good sign personally...no moisture to cause rust or whatnot from its sitting.
Rememeber to tighten petcock back up...a snug hand tight is sufficient. add coolant as needed...get a funnel so it all goes in, that way if you see water coming out of the core you know theres a leak...fill slowly...you are displacing air as you fill and it takes a bit of time for all the air to work its way out.
Belts and hoses...as said before...dont forget clamps too...fuel line size, heater hose size and radiator hose size...can always take them back if not needed.
When working with the battery...note which is pos (+)on the truck(the cable that goes to starter relay on the firewall. clean the terminals on the cables and battery...leave battery undone when doing the plugs...if you hit/contact the rear of the generator just so with battery hooked up...can cause major headache as it can mess up the generator...you will prolly have to undo it and take the belt off to get the front 2 plugs on a V8. A 6 cylinder should be ok as far as being able to get to plugs...
Brakes...th1567 pretty much nailed it...if shoes are wet from brake fluid or grease from the rear axle, replace them...other conditions th1567 said as well ...
When you grease up the joints...fill JUST enough to see the rubber boots balloon up on the steering linkage...also a good idea to wipe the old crud from around this area too and the zerk fitting(grease fitting)
Th1567 pretty much nailed everything...as he said...go slow, dont be in a rush...I know its a ton of fun to bring something back to life thats been sitting ...I once brought back a 55 Buick back to life that had been idled since 1971...I still have its bad piston as it had a stuck valve.
Oh yeah...one other thing...on the drums...on the rears I THINK there are some huge straight slot screws in the middle area that go into the axle...if those are there...they gotta come out...those can be a royal pain in the behind. Im most familiar with 3/4 ton trucks so that might not apply...but just in case...
Get a can of PB Blaster and/or Liquid Wrench...I advise against WD40...I did that once on tailgate hinge bolts ...took hinge off, ran bolts in, left for 5 yrs...I broke 2 off flush...and I had lubed them well before...with WD40...the W is water...plus, I feel PB is a better rust penetrant and lubricant.


As for the warranty plate info...on yours that will be on the inside of the glove box door...take a pic of it or write the info down and I or others here can decode it down for you.
Lastly...if your truck is a unibody...go easy on loading with heavy stuff...and just rememeber while you are tinkering on the truck who has been under the hood before you :-)


- cs65