#14  
Old 05-06-2008, 11:18 PM
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NightCrawler
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Thanks for your feedback guys. I realiize that the Ranger oil pan can just not be pulled without the engine out. However, I have great news... The snake method worked/will work for future reference especially if you don't have a pile of nastiness under there. For me, there was so must dirt and grime, I don't think I will escape the leak. Took a LONG time for me to deal with on the ground with a creeper, but the pan gasket is in straight and the pan bolts tightened ever so carefully starting with the front two and then the back two. After finger tightening all those 4, I went ahead and tightened a little more in a criss cross manner to evenly spread the compression of the gasket. Installed all of the other bolts finger tight. Some did not want to go all the way because they had gunk around the threads. I cleaned the bolts, but couldn't get it all. You want to MAKE sure you get at least 2 full turns on each one before ever putting a ratchet on ANY ONE bolt. I have stripped one of those out before and that is just a real nightmare.

So all of the bolts in finger tight, slowly torque the top two and then the back two making very sure the gasket around the crankshaft gets distributed evenly. The sheet that was provided by Rockledge says 12 lb/in. I probably got pretty close to that... Then proceed in a criss cross manner starting in the middle and tightening all of the bolts.

I personally started back over from the beginning and went through the process again. I went back to the two front and sure enough they needed a little more, then the back two, then back and forth across the pan. With as much trouble as I have had, I did a three peat. Probably unecessary, but I tightened a couple more ever sooo slightly and I think doing that I have the best chance at no leak given my situation.

Truthfully, my engine should probably come out so this frekin thing can be cleaned and properly sealed with silicone, but I am going this route first. If it leaks, someone else is going to get to deal with it. I had to go to Home Depot. Last night Wallmart didn't have anything that could be quickly located and I was exhausted so I grabbed the milk and rolled out.

Tonight, Home Depot had a piece of PVC that was the perfect size (4" Pipe) for the rear main seal. I got the thicker pipe. Was probably about 1/8" thick rather than the 1/16" thick size. We cut it there, and I spent the 5 bucks on the pipe. Got it home, and it worked like a charm. The edge didn't seam like the best edge, so as another precaution, I went ahead and used about 30 2" pieces of electrical tape over the edge and covered the edge so a little jaggy on the pipe didn't ruin my seal. The rear main seal is in and looking good. The pan is in and tightened up (hope it doesn't leak, but I won't be surprised if it does). I have a friend coming over tomorrow to help manhandle the transmission on the ground and it's going back together. I am hoping for a crank tomorrow night. I will post my progress.

NC